Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

http://photos-f.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/190611_1943516947317_1224295443_4398956_8279466_n.jpg

This is my Gf stagea as it sits at the moment

There weds kranze cerberus ii in 19s

Width I'm unsure as the same as ofset ,

Tires are 19/235 35 on the front

And 19/265 35 on rear , tires are also look fairly stretched,

Looking the goods there!

I'd be willing to bet those staggered tyre sizes are the root of you driveline shudder.

They're a no go on these cars...

Size is up to you, but they have to be the same sizes front and rear.

Even theoretically perfectly matched rolling dia staggered sets seem to cause issues with the ATESSA system.

If you can; fit a set of matching dia wheels/tyres, and see what happens.

Size is up to you, but they have to be the same sizes front and rear.

Even theoretically perfectly matched rolling dia staggered sets seem to cause issues with the ATESSA system.

If you can; fit a set of matching dia wheels/tyres, and see what happens.

I always found this a little strange, by this reasoning adjusting the camber on a car, even if its not by choice (lowering) would change the amount of tyre contacting the road and thus change the width and more than likely the rolling diameter ever so slightly...

I have also seen plenty of GTR's running staggered widths in the past, is there something about our cars that makes this an impossibility?

Mike.

I always found this a little strange, by this reasoning adjusting the camber on a car, even if its not by choice (lowering) would change the amount of tyre contacting the road and thus change the width and more than likely the rolling diameter ever so slightly...

I have also seen plenty of GTR's running staggered widths in the past, is there something about our cars that makes this an impossibility?

Mike.

I have to say I agree. GTR's seem to get away with it fine, I've even seen Evos with 9.5" wide rims front, and 9" rear, albeit with the same size tyres (apparently gives better grip through corners), but when I had slightly different tyres on my C34 Stagea, it "bucked" from the get go. I won't be trying it on my M35..

Hey Wagon boy, looking nice! Did you get the wing fitted after or was it already there?

He already had it; but he's just minding for me until Sunday...:ph34r:

Bloody Nismo; why can't they just make something that I DON'T want?:spank:

Most wings are "not suitable for ARX" is this correct?

No.

All Nismo add-ons state "not suitable for ARX" for some reason, even though you can fit the speedo, suspension, exhaust, wing etc just the same as with an RS or RX.

Where there is a bit of a problem is with front and rear bumpers and side skirts due to the ARX and Axis flares.

  • 1 year later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Nope.    Grab a varex and turn it down as you get close to home, win win? 
    • So, I've had my V36 for about a month now and have already copped an "excessive exhaust noise" notification from QLD TMR, reported by someone in my local area. It's a twin as per the original, and can have a bit of a throaty note to it when idling cold 😄 and if I do get up it a bit, it can be noisy, but it did pass a roadworthy inspection before sale, so.... ... but in the interest of being a good neighbour, I do want to quieten it down a bit. Is anyone here running a quiet aftermarket cat-back on their V36 or 370Z? And the big, bold question: does an aftermarket cat-back really make much of a performance difference on these cars?
    • The wiring diagram for the R33 RB25 is freely available, and is essentially the same same as most other RBs (just with differences as to which pin # does which job). To get the ECU to power up, you just need to provide power to the ECCS relay, and have the other power feeds that come in from the top left of the wiring diagram (wrt the ECU) that give perma power to the fuel pump relay, the ECU itself, etc etc, all connected. When you put power on all these it will just come to life. It's pretty clear from the diagram what needs to happen. Just follow the lines from the 12V + supply stuff in the top left over towards the ECU. I've even posted snips of such diagrams (not for vanilla 25, I think for Neo and 26) to various threads here in the last few months, talking about what it takes to get the fuel pump and FPCM up and going. Search these up and they will help get you started on doing the same with the vanilla 25 diagram. Hell, for all I know, I've done the same with that one in years past and have forgotten.
    • Yep...so unless someone posts up the answer you will need to probe from the ECU connector to the dash plug with a multi meter in continuity mode to trace the wires.  Note the ECU has multiple - and + (and across different key settings - Battery, IGN and Start) and most likely the power is fed from the connector(s) that is normally near the left hand headlight.
    • Thanks Duncan, I am actually just trying to get the Rb turning and running with the RB25DET S2 original loom itself  I am just trying to get it going outside the body and not thinking about the S15 or trying to match anything to the S15 loom at all I am only trying to see if anyone has done this and what pin they found to be the ignition trigger and ECU+/- on the dash connector, that's about it. Thanks  
×
×
  • Create New...