Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

11) Bee*R B5 R18

F : 9.5JJ +38 (+1cm) (245/45/18)

R : 9.5JJ +25 (+1cm) (245/45/18)

7b4b6e4s-960.jpg

e74b6e4s-960.jpg

85af594s-960.jpg

12) Bee*R B5 R18 For Burnout

F : 9.5JJ +25 (235/40/18)

R : 9.5JJ +25 (235/40/18)

2f4a954s-960.jpg

9f4a954s-960.jpg

b0ca954s-960.jpg

13) Rays Nismo Z34 R19

F : 9.5JJ +40 (235/35/19)

R : 10.5JJ +23 (245/35/19)

89af9f4s-960.jpg

9af9f4s-960.jpg

7eaf9f4s-960.jpg

14) Napre Japan Mahdi Caesar FD-2 R19

F : 10JJ +7 (235/35/19)

R : 11JJ +2 (245/35/19)

591480cs-960.jpg

991480cs-960.jpg

811480cs-960.jpg

15) Yokohama Advan AVS T7 R19

F : 9JJ +22 (+1cm) (235/35/19)

R : 10JJ +25 (+1cm) (245/35/19)

5ec060cs-960.jpg

edabbecs-960.jpg

89c060cs-960.jpg

16) Bee"R B5+Gullflame Gravity GP Sports R18

F : 9.5JJ +25 (+1cm) (245/45/18)

R : 9.5JJ +15 (+1cm) (245/45/18)

6691e82s-960.jpg

93e4b3cs-960.jpg

17) Rays Nissan R19

F : 8JJ +30 (+1cm) (245/40/19)

R : 8.5JJ +33 (+1cm) (245/40/19)

bjba2s-960.jpg

8jba2s-960.jpg

and full list mu wheels xD

B.I.M Zeit SS

Prodrive GC-05A

SSR Type C

Black Racing PRO N1

Weds SA70

Advan RS

Bee*R B5

CST Hyper Zero-1

Rays VR Progressive TE

Rays VR TE37

Rays VR CE28

Advan AVS Model T7

Rays VR Nismo Z34

Napre Japan Mahdi Caesar FD-2

Gp Sports Gullflame Gravity

Work Cr Kiwami

Rays Nissan

That's a lot of wheel swaps.

Damn I want those guards on my car

My brain now hurts...

mind you I have no idea how much wider the masa front guards are compared to stock... It also doesn't look like Leks has pumped his rears.

So i bit the bullet after a bit if discussion and have ordered a set of these for my M35. WIll be a bit of a hassle to get them to fit but everything with my M35 is a hassle so why should this be any different.

In the next few weeks my new exhaust should be sorted which will sit quite a bit higher to the body on my M35 so i can drop the whole car about 1-2 inches.

Should look awesome.

Then i will be 100% focused on tuning... turbo options... making the thing drive / respond how i want for the street with the manual.

post-104324-0-65628300-1452289270_thumb.jpg

  • Like 2

So I got these over the weekend, they are ANZ "Velvet" (yes, velvet) in 18x8.5 +35.

Two are in good nick, two with a bit of rash that will need filling.

Keeping in mind these are going on a red NM35 which will also have a set of R33 GTST front callipers I am rebuilding, here is what I am thinking:

Patch up the rash with filler, touch up with "chrome" paint and give them a polish, callipers black or colour coded red. (my least favourite idea as they will look ratty bling).

Patch the rash, matt or satin black rims, gold or red colour coded callipers. (probably my favourite, brembo gold, black rims, headlights, grill etc).

Patch the rash, gunmetal/charcoal rims, gold or red colour coded callipers.

" " " , gold rims with black or red colour coded callipers.

Only going to paint as I don't want to spend too much on these nasty rims with powdercoat or plasti-dip.

Whichever way I go I will also fill in the "Velvet" logo and ditch the "ANZ" caps.

All opinions/other ideas will be greatly..............ignored, especially if they are, "hey mate, they're rubbish, save up and buy some decent rims you cheapskate!"

post-135423-0-68824500-1452514000_thumb.jpg

So, I ended up patching the gutter rash and filling the "velvet" logos with permatex "steel weld".

I've gone for gold calipers and I'll be painting the rims "graphite". Top coat to go on tomorrow then some 235/45 Falken FK453's when it cures.

post-135423-0-20017400-1452513536_thumb.jpgpost-135423-0-33511600-1452513558_thumb.jpgpost-135423-0-69148100-1452513616_thumb.jpg

  • Like 1

Wheels arrived.

Should get a chance this weekend for a test fit and then comes the fun part of what needs to be done to get them to my liking...

(tennis ball - cause tennis is on at the moment- for scale but it's a terrible picture :P )

post-104324-0-21653100-1452677046_thumb.jpg

post-104324-0-06262500-1452677048_thumb.jpg

post-104324-0-28256300-1452677049_thumb.jpg

  • 1 month later...

Ive found a set of wheels i like personally i had never heard of brand before but tyre shop pointed me in this direction. Niche wheels NR10 18x8 comes in +35 +40 and +42. Guy at shop said +40 would be the way to go. Im not sure as there is a bit of talk about 19×** and offset but not much about 18". Im looking at 18" to gain some sidewall height for a bit of a smoother ride

unnamed_zpssdqfa7we.png

Edited by stripey

Ive found a set of wheels i like personally i had never heard of brand before but tyre shop pointed me in this direction. Niche wheels NR10 18x8 comes in +35 +40 and +42. Guy at shop said +40 would be the way to go. Im not sure as there is a bit of talk about 19×** and offset but not much about 18". Im looking at 18" to gain some sidewall height for a bit of a smoother ride

unnamed_zpssdqfa7we.png

I have18x8.5 +30 (approx) and they clear everything with plenty of room but don't sit miles inside the guard. I would say +40 would be too shallow, better off with something in the 30s. 8" wide isn't very wide so you will have plenty of room either way without worrying about clearances.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Bummer...yeah i "need" something to "ease" up the work and for my driving it would be enough.    Iam counting the tune "without" turbo. I do not mean "cheap" like something from Temu around 200 USD, "Cheap" is something around 1000 USD? 
    • Starter motors used to use the weight of metal (magnets) to provide torque. Now they use (more) current instead. This. It's completely normal.
    • So thing that had me stumped, but I think is OK....is that when it was up in the air, in neutral I had it running to bleed to coolant while I put the wheels back on. I noticed the rears were turning (slowly) which I'd never seen before 20250928_163512.mp4     Because there had been an issue with clutch slip due to pedal adjustment on the dyno, I assumed there was still and issue so spent some quality time upside down under the dash adjusting the pedal....but no matter what I did the wheels still turned in neutral. Even disconnected the master cylinder to pedal rod and same. In despair, I even removed the clutch slave so there was no chance of any preload causing it.....still happened. So either: 1. Something is not right in the bellhousing, or 2. Its a thing sometimes with cold, thick gearbox oil Internet says it might be 2, I hope so!
    • OK, few more things sorted and it is ready for a shakedown on 10-Oct, with one weird thing. Changed the run in oil and filter for the good stuff. 8l came out, about 8.5 went in with filter so that looks all good. Changed the starter (again), this time for a brand new one, works good. Interesting that the Taaaarks one is shorter than factory but spins harder, I guess electronics have moved on a little in the last 30 years. Will be nice to have a bit of extra space under there. Put the timing cover back on, and noted where the cam gears were set as a record.  Will need to double check the timing but it is pretty close. Also put the coil pack cover and intake snorkel back on. Exhaust Inlet Changed the water out for coolant, bled up nicely. Removed the rear brake pads (well worn factory sumitomo ones!), gave the hardware a good clean and reassembled. I've put bendix XP on the back again because the price is excellent at $150 a set and they worked well on the V37. Front pads have plenty so no issue there
×
×
  • Create New...