Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Have you driven one, I thought you were a rev head? whats the point in having a turbo that makes most of it's power below the rev range you use it in?

Come for a visit and I'll let you have a drive of my car and you can decide if the lag vs power trade off is worth it.

I tuned Lee's car on 98 aswell and it made 270rwkw at 17 psi on willalls mainline, and his turb is a hks 3037 with .68 rear housing, and IMO the r and d that has gone into the rear housing is why they out perform there garret brother!

  • Replies 54
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

Have you driven one, I thought you were a rev head? whats the point in having a turbo that makes most of it's power below the rev range you use it in?

Come for a visit and I'll let you have a drive of my car and you can decide if the lag vs power trade off is worth it.

+1 for adrians crazy top end...

Have you driven one, I thought you were a rev head? whats the point in having a turbo that makes most of it's power below the rev range you use it in?

Come for a visit and I'll let you have a drive of my car and you can decide if the lag vs power trade off is worth it.

I tuned Lee's car on 98 aswell and it made 270rwkw at 17 psi on willalls mainline, and his turb is a hks 3037 with .68 rear housing, and IMO the r and d that has gone into the rear housing is why they out perform there garret brother!

oh i would love to do that.....i have driven Abe's car and that has a 0.86 rear housing running 98 fuel.....so pretty much i should be going the same turbo as lee has for the power and application that i want it for.......3037 with a 0.68 rear housing.....so now where can i get one from??? i really need to talk to you adrian before i get a turbo lol

I got a gcg turb with the same number on the core, but gcg tag says gt3071r...they tell me it has a .71 rear and a 3076 core......im a tad confused now...Is this what your running

Hi

the rear is definitely a .73 a/r AVO housing on mine.

see: http://www.avoturboworld.com/content/view/49/26/ and http://www.avoturboworld.com/pdf/gts_exhaust_housing.pdf

I agree this housing holds too much heat. As found out on the last trackday......

The front compressor is a ported/flowed stock nissan 45V4 rb25 housing - bored to the max.

The centre chra core features dual ball bearing, capable of 450-500hp at the engine, is GT3076R

700177-5015 / gt30 chra

compressor wheel inducer size: 57.02mm

compressor wheel trim: 56mm

compressor wheel exducer size: 76mm

turbine wheel inducer size: 60mm

turbine wheel trim: 84mm

turbine wheel exducer size: 54.8mm

see: http://www.forcedinductions.com/Completegarrettlisting.htm

On the topic of turbos ... where can I find a gasket between the exhaust manifold and turbo for my RB25 at short notice?

I've had a leak in my dump pipe gasket for some time, and now want to replace it (that gasket I do have), but I'll need to remove the turbo completely to do it.

:rolleyes:

On the topic of turbos ... where can I find a gasket between the exhaust manifold and turbo for my RB25 at short notice?

I've had a leak in my dump pipe gasket for some time, and now want to replace it (that gasket I do have), but I'll need to remove the turbo completely to do it.

:rolleyes:

Nissan stock them..

^^ yep Craig from Spare Parts at Main North Nissan keeps them in stock. Otherwise I have a vgc one off my R34 you can have for free (I changed it for the fun of it while I had the thing off one time). And fyi you won't completely have to remove the turbo (which is a giant pain in the ass getting the water line banjo bolts back it - just undo the turbo from the manifold, inlet and exhaust pipes, and you should be able to lean the turbo out off the studs enough to get the old gasket off and the new one on. will save you heaps of time - just watch you don't bend/kink the solid copper lines (if they are still on there). Getting those banjo bolts back in straight is one of the greatest pita jobs I have ever done on a car.

well said.

just realized Ive got a new gasket here too,

if anyone wants to feel the midrange and juicy topend of my stag (passenger seat, soz) pm me - morphett vale.

ScannedImage.jpg

got to install new lowmount manifold, bend actuator rod a little, redyno for another 5% gain in power, with an increase in response

^^ yep Craig from Spare Parts at Main North Nissan keeps them in stock. Otherwise I have a vgc one off my R34 you can have for free (I changed it for the fun of it while I had the thing off one time). And fyi you won't completely have to remove the turbo (which is a giant pain in the ass getting the water line banjo bolts back it - just undo the turbo from the manifold, inlet and exhaust pipes, and you should be able to lean the turbo out off the studs enough to get the old gasket off and the new one on. will save you heaps of time - just watch you don't bend/kink the solid copper lines (if they are still on there). Getting those banjo bolts back in straight is one of the greatest pita jobs I have ever done on a car.

Unfortunately I have a custom bellmouth dump pipe and its just awkward to get a spanner to it. I've always had to unbolt the cat, and remove the turbo from the exhaust manifold ... then separate the dump pipe from the turbo.

Fortunately, I have braided lines for water and oil, which make the job a little easier. I'm also going to visit my brother this week (Coventry Fasteners) to get some extra long nuts for the dump pipe, to help make the job easier in future.

However, I will try removing the dump pipe with the turbo just hanging off the manifold and lines still in place. I'll play it by ear on the weekend I suppose.

If you're going to Gepps Cross to help out on the Saturday morning Andrew, I'll grab that gasket off you then?

:rolleyes:

oh i would love to do that.....i have driven Abe's car and that has a 0.86 rear housing running 98 fuel.....so pretty much i should be going the same turbo as lee has for the power and application that i want it for.......3037 with a 0.68 rear housing.....so now where can i get one from??? i really need to talk to you adrian before i get a turbo lol

32160820078_large.jpg

Pretty much, use your right foot as the actuator

^^^yep agree with Luke and Steve

mine is set on 23psi high setting all the time, no point in having a low setting, just control ya boost with ya accelartor

plus you dont have to press any buttons

Just for a interesting comparason. This is in hypergear's thread with a ATR43G2 which is a supposely bush bearing 3076 in their .82 bolton turbine housing. Its actually making better power through all rev range then the 3037 (GT3076 in .70 turbine?) with boost drop. might be some thing to look at.

32160820078_large.jpg

atr43g3822668rwkw.jpg

Hi

the rear is definitely a .73 a/r AVO housing on mine.

see: http://www.avoturboworld.com/content/view/49/26/ and http://www.avoturboworld.com/pdf/gts_exhaust_housing.pdf

I agree this housing holds too much heat. As found out on the last trackday......

The front compressor is a ported/flowed stock nissan 45V4 rb25 housing - bored to the max.

The centre chra core features dual ball bearing, capable of 450-500hp at the engine, is GT3076R

700177-5015 / gt30 chra

compressor wheel inducer size: 57.02mm

compressor wheel trim: 56mm

compressor wheel exducer size: 76mm

turbine wheel inducer size: 60mm

turbine wheel trim: 84mm

turbine wheel exducer size: 54.8mm

see: http://www.forcedinductions.com/Completegarrettlisting.htm

Cheers for that , definately a 3076 core then, odd its badged 3071

They told me it was 71 rear, guy i bought it off told me .64..front is polished with m12 written it on..Not sure what size but it needed a 10mm spacer plate..only just.

If its good for 250 ill be happy :cool:

Edited by Arthur T3

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ok guys thank you very much. GCG highflow it is then 🙂 
    • forgot to mention that when it does this it does not kill the engine, but I have not kept the pedal down long enough to let it, as I see no reason to beat up on it as its got to be something simple, small and dumb causing this.  And as soon as I let off pedal, the engine returns to its normal super smooth operation and rpms re-stabilize quickly, once below 4k. 
    • neither stumble or cut really seem to be an appropriate term....hard to explain its like a rev limiter but at 4k, but it violently shakes engine and entire vehicle as the rpms will not rise over 4k, even with slow acceleration. as soon as it hits 4k, it sounds like entire spark is lost entirely. plugs were 1.1 which I used as such, but later put in new plugs gapped down to .8 changed back after issue arose when I replaced the coils, still does it with either plug gap...damn and it was all running so good.
    • Oh how times have changed! I actually lean it out relative to my water/methanol injector duty cycle. The methanol adds a lot of fueling and you can then lean it out even more due to reduced knock. 
    • Yeah my thoughts are the same, a well thought out WMI setup, would be slightly ahead of just straight E85 and you're also chemically intercooling the charged air, dropping it even further. This is why you need to add so much more fuel as soon as you spray. I remember someone taking me through their set up before (Dennis, has a R33, lives around Cabramatta - no idea if he's still around on this forum). He would target AFR 10:1 on 98, then as WMI ramped on, AFR would lean back up to 11:1. Amazingly, he did this all through his PowerFC, a relay to cut power to his EBC solenoid if there was not enough line pressure on his WMI kit. And of course, if there wasn't any boost made above gate pressure, you wouldn't be accessing the load cells with heaps of timing for WMI. One downside to that rudimentary setup, once the WMI came on, the EBC would unleash the dragon, and of course all the timing. Tyres would fry lol.
×
×
  • Create New...