Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

As you have read the title, i want my r33 to have a lifted / raised bonnet effect. I have heard it lets more heat out of the engine bay and thus leaving the engine at a coolish temp. Well im going nuts working out how these people do it. Ive heard u need washers. Anyone know what washers to purchase and how to fit em.

thanks in advance

ak

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/32587-raised-bonnet-effect/
Share on other sites

I have read that just in front of the windscreen there on pretty well every car is in fact a high pressure region and as such, at speed air gets forced back down in there and doesnt extract any heat at all and can actually interfere with the air that is already flowing into the low pressure region (your engine bay) from the front of the car and then out under the car.

Unless your doing it for "hardcore" look

Daniel Konig

Not to mention if you have a front end accident, instead of the bonnet going back into just above the firewall and crumpling, its going to miss that section and come straight through the windscreen meaning you have a good chance of decapitating you and your passangers

i dont see any real benefit from this unless below

Unless your doing it for "hardcore" look

or u fang ur car constantly or do track work to generate enough engine heat that needs to be dissapated.

anyways its ur car and good luck with it. go to the intial drift australia forum to get some ideas. i remember seeing in a thread there people fabricating a bonet hook and anchor cables to prevent decapitation:D:D

lol.... i did this on my old pulsar..... i ran 'under' the back of a ute and the only way to get the new bonnet to close properly was to do this... I thought of it then and there on the spot, thought i was a genious.... then a year later, i read a heap of people had done it to get that 'drifter' look and i went "Doh! i didn't invent a new and cool idea then"... (even though i thought it was quite silly....) lol...

just my 2c....

I have read that just in front of the windscreen there on pretty well every car is in fact a high pressure region and as such, at speed air gets forced back down in there and doesnt extract any heat at all and can actually interfere with the air that is already flowing into the low pressure region (your engine bay) from the front of the car and then out under the car.

Daniel, you're spot on, next time you see a NASCAR they have exactly that, just below the front windscreen.

yes.

the duct behind the NASCAR bonnet actually uses this pressure to feed the engine - the air filter is completely shielded at the front & open at the back where the duct is.

but essentially the shape of the car & the way air flows through the engine bay would determine whether the effect of bonnet lifting would be good or bad.

surely it would help drop under bonnet temps though?

I raised mine about 2 years ago, and remove the rubber strip as well so there is a pretty big gap there.

Although it was dodgy, I have hung out the window and felt hot air coming out of under the bonnet, so I reckon it works

Just my opinion tho

my car back home had this .. and ppl started doing this like 7 years ago in my country.

its all good, but if you're stopped at the lights and its raining, you can see your mist on your windscreen .. the heat from the engine is the cause, but a flick of the wiper or if you're moving again then its all good ..

It is likely to have an effect when the car is stationary, but has been suggested to make things WORSE on some cars when moving (especially as speed increases) due to the pressure forcing back in and disturbing the airflow that the designers of your car spent all that R&D money designing.

Daniel Konig

if you check an aerodynamics test flow image in a wind tunnel you'll notice that air doesn't go anywhere if you have hot air trying to go out and cold air trying to get in. the edge of the bonnet is a high air pressure zone, so raising the back of the bonnet is not gonna help you at low speeds (under 100k's), unless you have a top mount intercooler. Plus it makes it a lot easier to break into your car :) funnily enough most alarms are mounted on the firewall :D *lift* *smash* alarm dangling...

on an r33 with a huge turbo, this is a good way of dissipating heat soak. As for having weird effect on aero, i'm not really sure, i always thought and have been told by knowledgeable ppls that at the base of your windcreens is the lowes presuure zone on most car with a steeply raked screen it would creat a vacumn effect. But i could be wrong.

it makes it a lot easier to break into your car ;) funnily enough most alarms are mounted on the firewall :D *lift* *smash* alarm dangling...
i did this just before my car was stolen  

Coincidence?

The bottom of the windscreen is definately a high pressure area, i was taught this at Uni in fluid mechanics, so there! Thats why there are intake vents for the air con etc there. Raising the back of the bonnet may cause hot air to escape whilst the car is stationary, but when going along not air would come out that way. Its possibly that cold air would go in that way, but probably not with all the air being forced in through the grill/radiator etc.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi,  Just joined the forum so I could share my "fix" of this problem. Might be of use to someone. Had the same hunting at idle issue on my V36 with VQ35HR engine after swapping the engine because the original one got overheated.  While changing the engine I made the mistake of cleaning the throttle bodies and tried all the tricks i could find to do a throttle relearn with no luck. Gave in and took it to a shop and they couldn't sort it. Then took it to my local Nissan dealership and they couldn't get it to idle properly. They said I'd need to replace the throttle bodies and the ecu probably costing more than the car is worth. So I had the idea of replacing the carbon I cleaned out with a thin layer of super glue and it's back to normal idle now. Bit rough but saved the car from the wreckers 🤣
    • After my last update, I went ahead with cleaning and restoring the entire fuel system. This included removing the tank and cleaning it with the Beyond Balistics solution, power washing it multiple times, drying it thoroughly, rinsing with IPA, drying again with heat gun and compressed air. Also, cleaning out the lines, fuel rail, and replacing the fuel pump with an OEM-style one. During the cleaning process, I replaced several hoses - including the breather hose on the fuel tank, which turned out to be the cause of the earlier fuel leak. This is what the old fuel filter looked like: Fuel tank before cleaning: Dirty Fuel Tank.mp4   Fuel tank after cleaning (some staining remains): Clean Fuel Tank.mp4 Both the OEM 270cc and new DeatschWerks 550cc injectors were cleaned professionally by a shop. Before reassembling everything, I tested the fuel flow by running the pump output into a container at the fuel filter location - flow looked good. I then fitted the new fuel filter and reassembled the rest of the system. Fuel Flow Test.mp4 Test 1 - 550cc injectors Ran the new fuel pump with its supplied diagonal strainer (different from OEM’s flat strainer) and my 550cc injectors using the same resized-injector map I had successfully used before. At first, it idled roughly and stalled when I applied throttle. Checked the spark plugs and found that they were fouled with carbon (likely from the earlier overly rich running when the injectors were clogged). After cleaning the plugs, the car started fine. However, it would only idle for 30–60 seconds before stalling, and while driving it would feel like a “fuel cut” after a few seconds - though it wouldn’t fully stall. Test 2 – Strainer swap Suspecting the diagonal strainer might not be reaching the tank bottom, I swapped it for the original flat strainer and filled the tank with ~45L of fuel. The issue persisted exactly the same. Test 3 – OEM injectors To eliminate tuning variables, I reinstalled the OEM 270cc injectors and reverted to the original map. Cleaned the spark plugs again just in-case. The stalling and “fuel cut” still remained.   At this stage, I suspect an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, caused during the cleaning process. This has led me to look into getting Frenchy’s fuel hanger and replacing the unit entirely. TL;DR: Cleaned and restored the fuel system (tank, lines, rail, pump). Tested 550cc injectors with the same resized-injector map as before, but the car stalls at idle and experiences what feels like “fuel cut” after a few seconds of driving. Swapped back to OEM injectors with original map to rule out tuning, but the issue persists. Now suspecting an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, possibly cause by the cleaning process.  
    • For race cars, this is one part where I find having the roll cage bar having gone through a hole in the floor better than the build it up on a ledge inside... The Merc I help on, the main hoop ends are marked on the car, and the jack is marked... Jack goes under a few inches and lifts one whole side of the car up... Removes that fight for long slim jacks for race car duties!   My biggest issue for the daily drivers I work on, is my jacks don't go high enough. The jacks start out on a few blocks, jack it up, then start a second jack under it on more blocks, and then I can get an axle stand under it. My axle stands are presently in use, and are nearly fully extended. The car is sitting with barely more than a cm of clearance to get the wheel off the studs! Sarah's Kluger is the same, as it has an ungodly amount of droop available in the suspension and a distinct lack of good jacking points!
    • Happy? Yep, my to do list is getting shorter and shorter. Either this light approaching is the end of the tunnel, or I'm about to be hit by a train... Ha ha ha   Also, Duncan isn't that far out of town that you need to make a multi day drive out of it. 😛
×
×
  • Create New...