Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

As you have read the title, i want my r33 to have a lifted / raised bonnet effect. I have heard it lets more heat out of the engine bay and thus leaving the engine at a coolish temp. Well im going nuts working out how these people do it. Ive heard u need washers. Anyone know what washers to purchase and how to fit em.

thanks in advance

ak

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/32587-raised-bonnet-effect/
Share on other sites

I have read that just in front of the windscreen there on pretty well every car is in fact a high pressure region and as such, at speed air gets forced back down in there and doesnt extract any heat at all and can actually interfere with the air that is already flowing into the low pressure region (your engine bay) from the front of the car and then out under the car.

Unless your doing it for "hardcore" look

Daniel Konig

Not to mention if you have a front end accident, instead of the bonnet going back into just above the firewall and crumpling, its going to miss that section and come straight through the windscreen meaning you have a good chance of decapitating you and your passangers

i dont see any real benefit from this unless below

Unless your doing it for "hardcore" look

or u fang ur car constantly or do track work to generate enough engine heat that needs to be dissapated.

anyways its ur car and good luck with it. go to the intial drift australia forum to get some ideas. i remember seeing in a thread there people fabricating a bonet hook and anchor cables to prevent decapitation:D:D

lol.... i did this on my old pulsar..... i ran 'under' the back of a ute and the only way to get the new bonnet to close properly was to do this... I thought of it then and there on the spot, thought i was a genious.... then a year later, i read a heap of people had done it to get that 'drifter' look and i went "Doh! i didn't invent a new and cool idea then"... (even though i thought it was quite silly....) lol...

just my 2c....

I have read that just in front of the windscreen there on pretty well every car is in fact a high pressure region and as such, at speed air gets forced back down in there and doesnt extract any heat at all and can actually interfere with the air that is already flowing into the low pressure region (your engine bay) from the front of the car and then out under the car.

Daniel, you're spot on, next time you see a NASCAR they have exactly that, just below the front windscreen.

yes.

the duct behind the NASCAR bonnet actually uses this pressure to feed the engine - the air filter is completely shielded at the front & open at the back where the duct is.

but essentially the shape of the car & the way air flows through the engine bay would determine whether the effect of bonnet lifting would be good or bad.

surely it would help drop under bonnet temps though?

I raised mine about 2 years ago, and remove the rubber strip as well so there is a pretty big gap there.

Although it was dodgy, I have hung out the window and felt hot air coming out of under the bonnet, so I reckon it works

Just my opinion tho

my car back home had this .. and ppl started doing this like 7 years ago in my country.

its all good, but if you're stopped at the lights and its raining, you can see your mist on your windscreen .. the heat from the engine is the cause, but a flick of the wiper or if you're moving again then its all good ..

It is likely to have an effect when the car is stationary, but has been suggested to make things WORSE on some cars when moving (especially as speed increases) due to the pressure forcing back in and disturbing the airflow that the designers of your car spent all that R&D money designing.

Daniel Konig

if you check an aerodynamics test flow image in a wind tunnel you'll notice that air doesn't go anywhere if you have hot air trying to go out and cold air trying to get in. the edge of the bonnet is a high air pressure zone, so raising the back of the bonnet is not gonna help you at low speeds (under 100k's), unless you have a top mount intercooler. Plus it makes it a lot easier to break into your car :) funnily enough most alarms are mounted on the firewall :D *lift* *smash* alarm dangling...

on an r33 with a huge turbo, this is a good way of dissipating heat soak. As for having weird effect on aero, i'm not really sure, i always thought and have been told by knowledgeable ppls that at the base of your windcreens is the lowes presuure zone on most car with a steeply raked screen it would creat a vacumn effect. But i could be wrong.

it makes it a lot easier to break into your car ;) funnily enough most alarms are mounted on the firewall :D *lift* *smash* alarm dangling...
i did this just before my car was stolen  

Coincidence?

The bottom of the windscreen is definately a high pressure area, i was taught this at Uni in fluid mechanics, so there! Thats why there are intake vents for the air con etc there. Raising the back of the bonnet may cause hot air to escape whilst the car is stationary, but when going along not air would come out that way. Its possibly that cold air would go in that way, but probably not with all the air being forced in through the grill/radiator etc.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...