Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Did the same conversion in mine but mines a r33 4 door but the rb26 was worked, forged pistons, acl bottom end bearings the works. I love it, i rekon its the best thing ive eva did to the car,i put a 34gtt gearbox in, lots of wheel spin and fun. :thumbsup:

For sure the rb26 is a great engine conversion for any Nissan I've seen them go in 260z's would have been nice if Nissan had made them 2.8 or 3l from the factory but they are still a great engine at 2.6

For sure the rb26 is a great engine conversion for any Nissan I've seen them go in 260z's would have been nice if Nissan had made them 2.8 or 3l from the factory but they are still a great engine at 2.6

HKS V-Cam!

:thumbsup:

Got the car up and runing last night fixed the few issues it had and test drove it. Test drove very good even at 8-9 psi moves nice. Will get it on the dyno and tune it up

Nice, post up dyno chart when done.

  • 2 weeks later...

Finally got the car onto the dyno only had enough time to get some prelim tuning done up to 10psi as the client wanted the car back so didnt get enough time to install the boost controller.

Here is a video of the car on the dyno, as i said earlier that we used the RB20 gearbox and as you can here in the video the 4th gear syncro is worn and has seen better days.

Enjoy some RB sounds on the dyno.

  • 3 weeks later...

The new E1280s from adaptronic is pretty sweet isnt it? even the old boxy version was pretty sweet for basic applications. The new one will probably replace the d-jetro PFC in our race car soon for a bit more R&D

Hey Trent

It's a nice bit of gear for the price far more advanced then a dejetro for a track car you have all the nice little features plus the ve tuning i started out with the e420c without ve then upgraded the firmware to ve and was much nicer.

Have you played with and mega squirts?? A mate of mine in qld swears by them the new ms3 has got some good features for a dirt cheap ecu the only downside you have to stick them together but a few place in the states put them together as a built unit.

Been playing around with your favourite ecu tonight pnp wolf v4 on a 33.

To be honest I Carnt go past nistune for any Nissan I really love to use them.

Ahh fair enough good excuse. Would like to get to the states one day check out the cars we are heaing to japan in October after Bathurst tho.

We are going to try do a full Vic season next yeah in the 31

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I see you've never had to push start your own car... You could save some weight right now...
    • Sounds good.  I don't 100% understand what your getting at here. When you say, "I keep seeing YouTube videos where people have new paint and primer land on the old clearcoat that isn't even dulled down" do you mean this - there is a panel with factory paint, without any prep work, they paint the entire panel with primer, then colour then clear?  If that's what you mean, sure it will "stick" for a year, 2 years, maybe 3 years? Who knows. But at some stage it will flake off and when it does it's going to come off in huge chunks and look horrific.  Of course read your technical data sheet for your paint, but generally speaking, you can apply primer to a scuffed/prepped clear coat. Generally speaking, I wouldn't do this. I would scuff/prep the clear and then lay colour then clear. Adding the primer to these steps just adds cost and time. It will stick to the clear coat provided it has been appropriately scuffed/prepped first.  When you say, "but the new paint is landing on the old clearcoat" I am imagining someone not masking up the car and just letting overspray go wherever it wants. Surely this isn't what you mean?  So I'll assume the following scenario - there is a small scratch. The person manages to somehow fill the scratch and now has a perfectly flat surface. They then spray colour and clear over this small masked off section of the car. Is this what you mean? If this is the case, yes the new paint will eventually flake off in X number of years time.  The easy solution is to scuff/prep all of the paint that hasn't been masked off in the repair area then lay the paint.  So you want to prep the surface, lay primer, then lay filler, then lay primer, then colour, then clear?  Life seems so much simpler if you prep, fill, primer, colour then clear.  There are very few reasons to go to bare metal. Chasing rust is a good example of why you'd go to bare metal.  A simple dent, there is no way in hell I'm going to bare metal for that repair. I've got enough on my plate without creating extra work for myself lol. 
    • Hi, Got the membership renewal email but haven't acted yet.  I need to change my address first. So if somebody can email me so I can change it that would be good.    
    • Bit of a similar question, apprently with epoxy primer you can just sand the panel to 240 grit then apply it and put body filler on top. So does that basically mean you almost never have to go to bare metal for simple dents?
×
×
  • Create New...