Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys,

just bought an 1999 R34 GTR a few weeks back.

The headlights look yellowish most probably because of burnt water/fog in the inside of the headlight.

I couldnt find any topics that was telling how to clean them.

I was thinking about putting the HL in the oven in order to melt the seal, then clean it and finnaly buy some black seal glue to put it back together but it might get a bit messy as i've got 2 left hands.

any other ideas?

cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/326373-headlights-yellowish-on-my-r34-gtr/
Share on other sites

i dont know where u are located but there is a place in melbourne called headlights +

they do all thet sort of stuff and it seems to last very well (better than the kits u can buy)

also if u do buy a kit be careful a mate of mine coroded the film off his lights because it was a very strong sort of polish/cleaner.

Depending on the headlights, some frost over due to the Australian climate and the extreme UV we experience, (others due to a poor seal.) these lenses are designed for the Japanese climate and UV rating. A good plastic polish will bring them back, brands such as mothers are a good bet and arnt too badly priced.....

I've tried many things previously on my headlights - anything from brasso, sandpaper, and PlasticX etc - all of them worked, but some had better finishes than others. All of them started going yellow again after 6-9 months though...

I just used glassylite on my headlights on Thursday night - easy system - brought them up crystal clear and got rid of the yellowing in my passenger-side R34 lense. The final UV coating you apply is supposed to help with Australian conditions and prevent the yellowing from occuring again. For the price I paid (maybe $35 incl. p&h from their website) I figured it was worth a go - especially given they claim it's got that UV sealant/protectant. Purely on their initial results of making them nice and non-yellow and clear - I would highly recommend it - it works.

Only time will tell whether it resolves the yellowing coming back every 6+ months :whoops:

  • 2 weeks later...

I used all of the above methods and can still see fine fracture marks and what looks like dried mosture on the INSIDE .. so nothing will fix them up from the outside. But they're not yellow at all ..just slightly faded in corners.

I used a series of fine grit sandpapers soaked in warm water, sanded the outside of the headlights, then soaked the headlights in a thick thich coat of plastic polish and they come up like brand new.

I've tried many things previously on my headlights - anything from brasso, sandpaper, and PlasticX etc - all of them worked, but some had better finishes than others. All of them started going yellow again after 6-9 months though...

I just used glassylite on my headlights on Thursday night - easy system - brought them up crystal clear and got rid of the yellowing in my passenger-side R34 lense. The final UV coating you apply is supposed to help with Australian conditions and prevent the yellowing from occuring again. For the price I paid (maybe $35 incl. p&h from their website) I figured it was worth a go - especially given they claim it's got that UV sealant/protectant. Purely on their initial results of making them nice and non-yellow and clear - I would highly recommend it - it works.

Only time will tell whether it resolves the yellowing coming back every 6+ months :D

Keep us updated on 'glassylite' because I've wondered (also being a chemist) what it is that causes the yellowing to return so soon?

In any case, if this has an effective UV sealant/protectant, I won't have to keep on rubbing my left hand headlight (on the Forester) like a genie bottle. My GT-R has no such dilemma. :D

Keep us updated on 'glassylite' because I've wondered (also being a chemist) what it is that causes the yellowing to return so soon?

In any case, if this has an effective UV sealant/protectant, I won't have to keep on rubbing my left hand headlight (on the Forester) like a genie bottle. My GT-R has no such dilemma. :D

No signs of yellowing yet - but it's still early days.

What I found interesting is I've never had yellowing issues on my drivers-side light, only the passenger side - perhaps one has been changed in Japan before I bought the car, or maybe one's had the coating scrubbed off at some point from over-zealous polishing - who knows.

I plan on keeping this thread updated, if I see yellowing return tho - never fear :D

I'll also be interested in hearing how this goes. I've been using Meguiar's PlastX - works well enough, though my driver's side headlight still has a very faint tinge to it. But at least I can actually see into them now, so bonus!

I'll also be interested in hearing how this goes. I've been using Meguiar's PlastX - works well enough, though my driver's side headlight still has a very faint tinge to it. But at least I can actually see into them now, so bonus!

Plastx can work very well. I have used it on a number of cars with generally very good results, especially when using it with a car polisher ( gently )

Once that yellow starts though it will need redoing periodically

Hi guys,

just bought an 1999 R34 GTR a few weeks back.

The headlights look yellowish most probably because of burnt water/fog in the inside of the headlight.

I couldnt find any topics that was telling how to clean them.

I was thinking about putting the HL in the oven in order to melt the seal, then clean it and finnaly buy some black seal glue to put it back together but it might get a bit messy as i've got 2 left hands.

any other ideas?

cheers

My headlights we're yellow too, I got some headlight cleaner stuff from SuperCheap Auto and it seemed to work pretty good, just follow the instructions and you'll have no probs :blink:

  • 3 weeks later...

I "think" the yellowing is cause by some sort on algae. Since the lense is quite porous and rain water isn't clean it leaves the ultimate place for algae to form.

- Polish the lense with any car polish.

- I found a little bit of RainX helps keep it clearer longer, maybe because it repels water better and "fills in" the mircoscopic pores on the lense.

But that's my own non-scientifically proven theory anyway - which seems to work :P

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I got back to Japan in January and was keen to get back on track as quickly as possible. Europe is god-awful for track accessibility (by comparison), so I picked up a first-gen GT86 in December just to have something I could jump into right away. The Skyline came over in a container this time and landed in early January. It was a bit battered after Europe, though—I refused to do anything beyond essential upkeep while it was over there. The clutch master cylinder gave out, and so did the power steering. I didn’t even bother changing the oil; it was the same stuff that went in just before I left Japan the first time. Naughty. Power steering parts would’ve cost double with shipping and taxes, so knowing I’d be heading back to Japan, I just postponed it and powered through the arm workout. It took a solid three months to get the car back on the road. Registration was a nightmare this time around. There were a bunch of BS fees to navigate, and sourcing parts was a headache. I needed stock seats for shaken, mistakenly blew 34k JPY on some ENR34 seats—which, of course, didn’t fit—then ended up having the car’s technical sheet amended to register it as a two-seater with the Brides. Then there’s the GT86. Amazing car. Does everything I want it to do. Parts are cheap, easy to find, and I don’t care what anyone says—it’s super rewarding to drive. I’ve done a few basic mods: diff ratio, coilovers, discs, pads, seat, etc. It already had a new exhaust manifold and the 180kph limiter removed, so I assume it’s running some kind of map. I’ve just been thrashing it at the track non-stop—mostly Fuji Speedway now, since I need something with higher speed after all that autobahn time. The wheels on the R34 always pissed me off—too big, and it was a nightmare getting tires to fit properly under the arches. So I threw in the towel and bought something that fits better. Looks way cleaner too (at least to me)—less hotboy, less attention-seeking. Still an R34, though. Now for future plans. There are a few things still outstanding with the car. First up, the rear subframe needs an overhaul—that’s priority one. Next, I need to figure out an engine rebuild plan. No timeline yet, but I want to keep it economical—not cutting corners, just not throwing tens of thousands at a mechanic I can barely communicate with. And finally, paint. Plus a bit of tidying up here and there.  
    • Nope, needed to clearance under the bar a little with a heat gun, a 1/2" extension as the "clearancer", and big hammer, I was aware of this from the onset, they fit a 2.0 with this intake no problems, but, the 2.5 is around 15mm taller than a 2.0, so "clearancing" was required  It "just" touched when test fitting, now, I have about 10mm of clearance  You cannot see where it was done, and so far, there's no contact when giving it the beans Happy days
    • It's been a while since I've updated this thread. The last year (and some) has been very hectic. In the second-half of 2024 I took the R34 on a trip through Germany, Italy, France and Switzerland - it was f*cking great. I got a little annoyed with the attention the car was getting around Europe and really didn't drive it that much. I could barely work on the car since I was living in an inner-city apartment (with underground parking). During the trip, the car lost power steering in France - split hose - and I ended up driving around 4,000kms with no power steering.  There were a few Nurburgring trips here and there, but in total the R34 amassed just shy of 7,000kms on European roads. Long story short, I broke up with the reason I was transferred to Europe for and requested to be moved back to Japan. The E90, loved it. It was a sunk cost of around EUR 10,000 and I sold it to a friend for EUR 1,500 just to get rid of it quickly. Trust me, moving countries f*cking sucks and I could not be bothered to be as methodical as I was the first time around.
    • I assume clearances were all a-okay?
    • Shock tower brace is in +5Kw....LOL  
×
×
  • Create New...