Jump to content
SAU Community

Bad Handling, How Do You Fix It

Dominic

By Dominic,
in R35 GTR

 Share

Recommended Posts

Dominic Rising Star

Dominic

Posted
  • Author
Posted
I know you have said it was aligned twice but was this done by a laser or by string line?

Last time it was done by Road and Race performance of Rydalmere.

Im still thinking it may be the 15mm spring height difference?

So what would be the best springs to use to replace.

  • Replies 46
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

GTScotT Grand Master

GTScotT

Posted
Posted

Dom is that the same silver item you took me for a wrap in some months ago? (came to buy helmets etc I was the wog).

Perhaps its karma, all those half nekid pics of u in bed with wads of cash LOL

iplen Mentor

iplen

Posted
Posted

15mm lower on one corner???!!!!! and yet you are asking about wheel alignment etc?? How if this car is on standard suspension is one corner 15mm lower, further to that what does the VDC etc think is going on when it is already seeing Gs going back and left?? DMS is good, MCA is BETTER. used both on rally cars. Suspension setup and tuning effects a car so much more than you will ever believe. My RS Impreza rally car, with DMS was unreal on one setting, but I felt it could go softer, we took 2 clicks (of 20) out of it, spent the next 2 stages chasing the front on hard pack, then the road would turn muddy and I could not make it go straight, back one click, and heaven!!!

handbrake Veteran

handbrake

Posted
Posted

agree. everyone is talking about all sorts of variables but I cant get over the drop on the rear passenger corner, something major wrong there. I wouldn't be investigating wheel or tyre setup until the suspension has been thoroughly inspected. sounds like you are a serious driver so might as well look at a full coilover setup while your at it. Lots of people have gone for JRZ and have had very good results. I have used MCA. good first up results even with suspension being only crudely setup for my first track day on it, much work with tuning to come.

GT-Ricer Collaborator

GT-Ricer

Posted
Posted
Last time it was done by Road and Race performance of Rydalmere.

Im still thinking it may be the 15mm spring height difference?

So what would be the best springs to use to replace.

Why keep experimenting and spending the money over and over?

Just take it to Col Crawford Nissan Performance Centre at Brookvale. They are a GT-R dealer, properly

trained and equipped to fix your car and align it to factory street or race specs on a fantastic fully interactive alignment machine

(the only other one like it I saw doing my other car at Marshalls Mercedes in Parramatta, but there may be others out there)

Ask Matt or Steve for advice and they will check your total suspension for any faults.

Before you throw out the factory set up check first what's wrong with it.

BTW, you should be able to go through Turn 1 at EC at 180kph in a stock car, with stock Bridgestones, set on 3 x R with street spec camber, lap after lap, without going sideways and getting a heart attack ! ;)

Dominic Rising Star

Dominic

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

At this stage I may drop the car into DMS and get them to build a set of coilovers and springs to suit the car being a rally car.

Fair price and much closer.

The car is a JDM unregistered stripped out race car with cage.

Id love to take it to a Nissan dealer but they are so hard up they wont even sell you an oil filter if you have a JDM, lucky the GTR uses the same oil filter as a Ford Telstar/Mazda 626.

Edited by Dominic
Beer Baron Grand Master

Beer Baron

Posted
Posted

that is a good way to go for what you want. but personally I'd try and sort your problem before changing stuff. as you'd hate to carry it over to a new set-up. there is something fundamentally wrong for it to be handling as evil as you say it is.

Martin Donnon Mentor

Martin Donnon

Posted
Posted (edited)

My concern is there may be a VDC issue causing it rather than springs and wheel alignment, neither of which GTR is 'particularly' sensitive to from a stance viewpoint

But if its sideways everywhere then its pretty much in 2WD.....Regardless we can fix :P

Edited by Martin Donnon
Martin Donnon Mentor

Martin Donnon

Posted
Posted (edited)

Now I have a bit more time I can advise you of the correct process Dominic.

A normal power run for your car should give you a Torque Split front/rear curve that stays at around 50% the whole way through the run, possibly heading towards a rear split of 60% towards the end. If there is a massive variance in this then you will have a VDC issue. The very first thing to do is read, note, and then clear the codes with your Cobb Accessport. If this does not fix the issue then you potentially have a transmission issue with the front output shaft assy of the GKN magnetic clutch.

Edited by Martin Donnon
hrd-hr30 Grand Master

hrd-hr30

Posted
Posted

I'll say it again, 15mm of negative wedge (which is what you've got with the left rear being 15mmm lower) is HUGE and is going to cause the car to be very loose in left hand turns (T1 at EC). By all means keep looking for driveline problems, but don't overlook the most basic setup problem your car has.

  • 7 months later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • RP1421
      S15 Spec R

      By RP1421 · Posted

      As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • joshuaho96
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
    • perry_r33
      R34 GTR Vspec Garage Sale - All must go!

      By perry_r33 · Posted

      Pm sent 
    • Robot
      Skyline v36 350GT sedan hunting on idle

      By Robot · Posted

      Hi,  Just joined the forum so I could share my "fix" of this problem. Might be of use to someone. Had the same hunting at idle issue on my V36 with VQ35HR engine after swapping the engine because the original one got overheated.  While changing the engine I made the mistake of cleaning the throttle bodies and tried all the tricks i could find to do a throttle relearn with no luck. Gave in and took it to a shop and they couldn't sort it. Then took it to my local Nissan dealership and they couldn't get it to idle properly. They said I'd need to replace the throttle bodies and the ecu probably costing more than the car is worth. So I had the idea of replacing the carbon I cleaned out with a thin layer of super glue and it's back to normal idle now. Bit rough but saved the car from the wreckers 🤣
    • GabsReDeal
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By GabsReDeal · Posted

      After my last update, I went ahead with cleaning and restoring the entire fuel system. This included removing the tank and cleaning it with the Beyond Balistics solution, power washing it multiple times, drying it thoroughly, rinsing with IPA, drying again with heat gun and compressed air. Also, cleaning out the lines, fuel rail, and replacing the fuel pump with an OEM-style one. During the cleaning process, I replaced several hoses - including the breather hose on the fuel tank, which turned out to be the cause of the earlier fuel leak. This is what the old fuel filter looked like: Fuel tank before cleaning: Dirty Fuel Tank.mp4   Fuel tank after cleaning (some staining remains): Clean Fuel Tank.mp4 Both the OEM 270cc and new DeatschWerks 550cc injectors were cleaned professionally by a shop. Before reassembling everything, I tested the fuel flow by running the pump output into a container at the fuel filter location - flow looked good. I then fitted the new fuel filter and reassembled the rest of the system. Fuel Flow Test.mp4 Test 1 - 550cc injectors Ran the new fuel pump with its supplied diagonal strainer (different from OEM’s flat strainer) and my 550cc injectors using the same resized-injector map I had successfully used before. At first, it idled roughly and stalled when I applied throttle. Checked the spark plugs and found that they were fouled with carbon (likely from the earlier overly rich running when the injectors were clogged). After cleaning the plugs, the car started fine. However, it would only idle for 30–60 seconds before stalling, and while driving it would feel like a “fuel cut” after a few seconds - though it wouldn’t fully stall. Test 2 – Strainer swap Suspecting the diagonal strainer might not be reaching the tank bottom, I swapped it for the original flat strainer and filled the tank with ~45L of fuel. The issue persisted exactly the same. Test 3 – OEM injectors To eliminate tuning variables, I reinstalled the OEM 270cc injectors and reverted to the original map. Cleaned the spark plugs again just in-case. The stalling and “fuel cut” still remained.   At this stage, I suspect an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, caused during the cleaning process. This has led me to look into getting Frenchy’s fuel hanger and replacing the unit entirely. TL;DR: Cleaned and restored the fuel system (tank, lines, rail, pump). Tested 550cc injectors with the same resized-injector map as before, but the car stalls at idle and experiences what feels like “fuel cut” after a few seconds of driving. Swapped back to OEM injectors with original map to rule out tuning, but the issue persists. Now suspecting an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, possibly cause by the cleaning process.  
×
×
  • Create New...