Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys, taken my car to 2 mechanics now (a mechanic and an electronics guy) cause it the rev keeps shooting up to 3k, then dropping out and repeat which results in the engine constantly cutting out when at lights etc unless my foots on the accelerator :S

Neither of them know what it was an have sent me on my way. I had a look at the recomendations thread but it seemed to be all about performance and parts and cosmetics. I just want the problem fixed so I was after a normal mechanic who knows something about cars... its an r32gtst.

Can anyone recomend someone, im out south east suburbs, a mechanic that you recomend etc?

Is a normal mechanic usually qualified enough to look at imports/turbo's or will I have to go to a specialist mechanic?

Thanks in advance!

Edited by Grinners
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/326499-frustrating-problem/
Share on other sites

It'd be a lot easier to go to someone who know Skyline well, they should diagnoise the problem and solve it quickly than 'normal' mechanics.

+1 to Sabbadin Automotive - 59 Roberts Ave Mulgrave 9558 4422, Speak to Rob.

Your problem sounds like faulty AFM.

seperate the problems and clarify the facts

it sounds like you have two issues

1) rev tacho goes spastic

2) stalls at traffic lights

does that sound correct? if so, try and tackle each problem seperately and focus on the basics

when did the problem start? what changed when the problem started?

yeah man

doesnt sound too good at all

also

u dont drive a "normal" car so dont take it to a normal mechanic yeah

I have to disgree. My 'normal mechanic' is fantastic, has done a load of performance work, fabrication work, electrical work, etc. for me. Every 'performance mechanic' that has ever touched my cars has done wrong by me. A car is a car, a good mechanic can work on anything.

agree a normal mechanic is a good start

most mechanics can sort out most normal EFI problems etc

its only if you need specific help with the 4wd system in a GTR, or want a 600HP build, or some pecular item relating to a skyline

its a car with a std EFI system and basic sensors, most mechanics can sort it out

even a plus if you can get your own consult, is take the car to them with consult, and its christmas

they can do all the normal work, and get access to the onboard EFI and fix away

  • 4 weeks later...
coolant temp switch or AFM or TPS judgn by your description of the problem

I agree with this,

Its one of those sensors that are telling ur engine to behave that way. it was happenng to mine to exacty the same. turns out it was my AFM.

get consult cable (ecutalk/blazt/pms), latest ECUTalk v1.3.5 beta6, log RPM, o2, timing, water temp, aac, TPS, a/f alpha, F/B O2 lean, Clsd throttle switch, get a log of the idle all over place and maybe/hopefully stalling, and zip/attach here

I have to disgree. My 'normal mechanic' is fantastic, has done a load of performance work, fabrication work, electrical work, etc. for me. Every 'performance mechanic' that has ever touched my cars has done wrong by me. A car is a car, a good mechanic can work on anything.

havent found a mechanic around my area im happy with :)

the last one someone here refered me to, took my brakes from working perfectly to hardly working and squeeling like a bitch - oh and somehow one of my shims went 'missing'

my car is doing the exact same thing now and its anoying the hell out of me,

rpm gauge gong spastic,

Engine idles under 1k almost stalls then revs up to about 2 or 3k

Boost comes on till abotu 4500k then drops out and flat lines untill 6000k then kicks back in.

Is it some sort of sensor?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • When you crank your car, and hit it with a timing light, can you see a steady crank timing?
    • Oh, forgot to add, A few months ago I was getting mixture codes and the car was using crap loads of fuel. You could smell the unburned fuel in the exhaust, it was crazy strong. Economy was over 17.5 l/100 and usually around 19. I smoked the engine and found a leaky CCV hose which I replaced and then I replaced my two pre cat O2 sensors, I also replaced the MAF. This fixed my mixture codes and improved my exonomy but I'm still 14 - 15 l/100 when pottering about town so something is still amiss. Throttle response is much better and it has more pep but I'd like to know why it's still so thirsty (and I'm hoping that whatever it is gives me a bit more poke).    
    • Car is on factory injectors/z32 maf/ q45 throttle body/ z32 ecu with nistune 
    • Hello all, currently finishing up a rb25 swap into my s14. Having issues with starting, car has spark (confirmed by pulling a plug and watching it spark), has fuel(confirmed by checking pulse/voltage at injectors all spark plugs are soaked in fuel). Car cranks over and pops into the exhaust with a heavy fuel smell but no attempt to start or run, I have torn the timing cover off and triple confirmed timing, turned the CAS in multiple spots both directions, attempted to start with coolant temp and maf unplugged, checked my fuel lines and made sure they weren’t backwards, checked voltage at cas/injectors/coilpacks, made sure all the grounds in the harness are connected and added a few grounding straps (1 from chassis to block, 1 from chassis to head, and 1 from chassis to igniter chip) I am getting stumped here. As a last ditch effort I made a full grounding harness tonight that’s going to run from the battery and add an extra ground from the battery onto the coil pack harness/igniter chip/ intake manifold/ Wiring specialties harness ground/ and alternator. I’m hoping maybe the grounding harness will fix it here but posting here to see if anyone has any other ideas on what else I can check. My fuel pressure is unknown right gauge will be here tomorrow.  IMG_3206.mov
    • yeah I was shocked when I checked my spare OEM on and as below that's how they come from Nissan. (side interesting note new NEO gearbox and replacement park lack the brass bush on the tips and its just all alloy) unsure about damage to the box currently back at 1110 to be pulled down/inspected and selector fork replaced as he built it previously and given the never before seen failure on his billet forks he is replacing it under warranty. He said he has used always OEM the keyway tab without issue for years so it could be an unlucky coincidence. I did talk to him about the sharp corners and stress concentration too. Re: hard shifts i got 7+ years out of the OEM one and the fork itself failed not the keyway. so could be bad luck as I said or an age thing + heat cycles in box and during fabrication of billet?
×
×
  • Create New...