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Hey guys, taken my car to 2 mechanics now (a mechanic and an electronics guy) cause it the rev keeps shooting up to 3k, then dropping out and repeat which results in the engine constantly cutting out when at lights etc unless my foots on the accelerator :S

Neither of them know what it was an have sent me on my way. I had a look at the recomendations thread but it seemed to be all about performance and parts and cosmetics. I just want the problem fixed so I was after a normal mechanic who knows something about cars... its an r32gtst.

Can anyone recomend someone, im out south east suburbs, a mechanic that you recomend etc?

Is a normal mechanic usually qualified enough to look at imports/turbo's or will I have to go to a specialist mechanic?

Thanks in advance!

Edited by Grinners
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https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/326499-frustrating-problem/
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It'd be a lot easier to go to someone who know Skyline well, they should diagnoise the problem and solve it quickly than 'normal' mechanics.

+1 to Sabbadin Automotive - 59 Roberts Ave Mulgrave 9558 4422, Speak to Rob.

Your problem sounds like faulty AFM.

seperate the problems and clarify the facts

it sounds like you have two issues

1) rev tacho goes spastic

2) stalls at traffic lights

does that sound correct? if so, try and tackle each problem seperately and focus on the basics

when did the problem start? what changed when the problem started?

yeah man

doesnt sound too good at all

also

u dont drive a "normal" car so dont take it to a normal mechanic yeah

I have to disgree. My 'normal mechanic' is fantastic, has done a load of performance work, fabrication work, electrical work, etc. for me. Every 'performance mechanic' that has ever touched my cars has done wrong by me. A car is a car, a good mechanic can work on anything.

agree a normal mechanic is a good start

most mechanics can sort out most normal EFI problems etc

its only if you need specific help with the 4wd system in a GTR, or want a 600HP build, or some pecular item relating to a skyline

its a car with a std EFI system and basic sensors, most mechanics can sort it out

even a plus if you can get your own consult, is take the car to them with consult, and its christmas

they can do all the normal work, and get access to the onboard EFI and fix away

  • 4 weeks later...
coolant temp switch or AFM or TPS judgn by your description of the problem

I agree with this,

Its one of those sensors that are telling ur engine to behave that way. it was happenng to mine to exacty the same. turns out it was my AFM.

get consult cable (ecutalk/blazt/pms), latest ECUTalk v1.3.5 beta6, log RPM, o2, timing, water temp, aac, TPS, a/f alpha, F/B O2 lean, Clsd throttle switch, get a log of the idle all over place and maybe/hopefully stalling, and zip/attach here

I have to disgree. My 'normal mechanic' is fantastic, has done a load of performance work, fabrication work, electrical work, etc. for me. Every 'performance mechanic' that has ever touched my cars has done wrong by me. A car is a car, a good mechanic can work on anything.

havent found a mechanic around my area im happy with :)

the last one someone here refered me to, took my brakes from working perfectly to hardly working and squeeling like a bitch - oh and somehow one of my shims went 'missing'

my car is doing the exact same thing now and its anoying the hell out of me,

rpm gauge gong spastic,

Engine idles under 1k almost stalls then revs up to about 2 or 3k

Boost comes on till abotu 4500k then drops out and flat lines untill 6000k then kicks back in.

Is it some sort of sensor?

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