Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys, taken my car to 2 mechanics now (a mechanic and an electronics guy) cause it the rev keeps shooting up to 3k, then dropping out and repeat which results in the engine constantly cutting out when at lights etc unless my foots on the accelerator :S

Neither of them know what it was an have sent me on my way. I had a look at the recomendations thread but it seemed to be all about performance and parts and cosmetics. I just want the problem fixed so I was after a normal mechanic who knows something about cars... its an r32gtst.

Can anyone recomend someone, im out south east suburbs, a mechanic that you recomend etc?

Is a normal mechanic usually qualified enough to look at imports/turbo's or will I have to go to a specialist mechanic?

Thanks in advance!

Edited by Grinners
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/326499-frustrating-problem/
Share on other sites

It'd be a lot easier to go to someone who know Skyline well, they should diagnoise the problem and solve it quickly than 'normal' mechanics.

+1 to Sabbadin Automotive - 59 Roberts Ave Mulgrave 9558 4422, Speak to Rob.

Your problem sounds like faulty AFM.

seperate the problems and clarify the facts

it sounds like you have two issues

1) rev tacho goes spastic

2) stalls at traffic lights

does that sound correct? if so, try and tackle each problem seperately and focus on the basics

when did the problem start? what changed when the problem started?

yeah man

doesnt sound too good at all

also

u dont drive a "normal" car so dont take it to a normal mechanic yeah

I have to disgree. My 'normal mechanic' is fantastic, has done a load of performance work, fabrication work, electrical work, etc. for me. Every 'performance mechanic' that has ever touched my cars has done wrong by me. A car is a car, a good mechanic can work on anything.

agree a normal mechanic is a good start

most mechanics can sort out most normal EFI problems etc

its only if you need specific help with the 4wd system in a GTR, or want a 600HP build, or some pecular item relating to a skyline

its a car with a std EFI system and basic sensors, most mechanics can sort it out

even a plus if you can get your own consult, is take the car to them with consult, and its christmas

they can do all the normal work, and get access to the onboard EFI and fix away

  • 4 weeks later...
coolant temp switch or AFM or TPS judgn by your description of the problem

I agree with this,

Its one of those sensors that are telling ur engine to behave that way. it was happenng to mine to exacty the same. turns out it was my AFM.

get consult cable (ecutalk/blazt/pms), latest ECUTalk v1.3.5 beta6, log RPM, o2, timing, water temp, aac, TPS, a/f alpha, F/B O2 lean, Clsd throttle switch, get a log of the idle all over place and maybe/hopefully stalling, and zip/attach here

I have to disgree. My 'normal mechanic' is fantastic, has done a load of performance work, fabrication work, electrical work, etc. for me. Every 'performance mechanic' that has ever touched my cars has done wrong by me. A car is a car, a good mechanic can work on anything.

havent found a mechanic around my area im happy with :)

the last one someone here refered me to, took my brakes from working perfectly to hardly working and squeeling like a bitch - oh and somehow one of my shims went 'missing'

my car is doing the exact same thing now and its anoying the hell out of me,

rpm gauge gong spastic,

Engine idles under 1k almost stalls then revs up to about 2 or 3k

Boost comes on till abotu 4500k then drops out and flat lines untill 6000k then kicks back in.

Is it some sort of sensor?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • That's not a transistor --- it's marked ZD1 which makes it a zener diode. As to what the breakdown voltage is, not enough there to divine.
    • Hi all, Long time since I've posted here. Looking for some advice on what I can remove to further identify the cause of my issues.  I can move the passenger seat forward and back but the knob used to adjust the seat angle is pretty much free spinning, there's very little resistance.  Removing the side cover I can see that the chain is intact but the shaft for the adjustment spins without the gear attached to it moving.  What's my next step for disassembly here? Is this a common fault? Just being a little cautious as I didn't want to start removing bolts for a spring to fly out or something equally as stupid.  Cheers
    • The incentives are mostly the same, yes. Ethanol is cheap compared to the cost of doing 98-100 RON with crude oil alone. 87 to 93-94 AKI all with E10. In 2020 Canada mandated E10 as a part of their "renewable fuel standard" and is supposedly going to go to E15 in 2030. In California where there are only 8 refineries with two threatening to shut down next year it's been over 20 years now of E10 and 91 AKI maximum because there's just not enough refinery capacity or crude oil supply relative to the demand for premium unleaded fuel. And CARB's low carbon fuel standard means functionally none of the diesel available at the pump is made from crude oil anymore. It's almost all entirely 20% biodiesel blended with 80% renewable diesel (hydrotreated vegetable oil) now. The number of gasoline vehicles that support E15 or higher ethanol concentrations is surprisingly low, I can't imagine it being wise to play tricks like this without flex fuel sensors in most of the fleet.
    • It's almost certainly the same as the one next to it. Have a fish around amongst these hits https://www.google.com/search?q=surface+mount+transistor+m33&sca_esv=9cb49794e0b2005d&source=hp&ei=2vJ5aNjTB7Kw0PEPldnS8QM&iflsig=AOw8s4IAAAAAaHoA6qkfmF6XcygtrZ4Vu9f92NXF_RFd&ved=0ahUKEwjYqIPP7MWOAxUyGDQIHZWsND4Q4dUDCA8&uact=5&oq=surface+mount+transistor+m33&gs_lp=Egdnd3Mtd2l6IhxzdXJmYWNlIG1vdW50IHRyYW5zaXN0b3IgbTMzMgUQIRigATIFECEYoAEyBRAhGKABMgUQIRigAUjKCFAAWABwAHgAkAEAmAHfAaAB3wGqAQMyLTG4AQPIAQD4AQL4AQGYAgGgAuYBmAMAkgcDMi0xoAfMBLIHAzItMbgH5gHCBwMyLTHIBwU&sclient=gws-wiz
    • South Australia, which is hardly as far behind as the rest pf Oz makes out, and who is also not a paragon of progressiveness (read that as over-legislation) in the area of vehicle standards, has this to say on the subject: Adjustable coil-over suspension Aftermarket adjustable coil-over suspension components are suspension units that incorporate an external thread on the main body and corresponding threaded spring saddle that allows the vehicle's suspension height to be varied. If fitting aftermarket or coil-over suspension components you must submit an Application to modify a light motor vehicle form and a report from a light vehicle engineering signatory (LVES).
×
×
  • Create New...