Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Yeah, its a minter and fairly rare so it'll be staying as is. Does around 30km per month. GTR's are so cheap to run lol.

Geezuz!

Take it out for a drive will ya! ;)

That's like a short drive to the shops and back once per week of the month (4 weeks)...

I guess it being an ADM GTR it has a decent value to it.

  • Replies 43
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

my rolla is 27 years old and i've only spent around 7 times the redbook value of the car modyfing it :)

and lets not start on the 33 :rofl:

wait... wut.... Throckmorton Scribbledick, you change your oil every thou? :)

Sure, thats every 2 years or so. The car did get driven a fair bit when i was in Darwin but now its pretty much a shed car. Ive put around 2000ks in two years. It will be doing a lot less now.

Sure, thats every 2 years or so. The car did get driven a fair bit when i was in Darwin but now its pretty much a shed car. Ive put around 2000ks in two years. It will be doing a lot less now.

drive the fucking thing ffs... you dont need a reason do go for a drive y'know.... :)

it's a car that cost about half of what the gtr did 20 years ago, or in perspective, the new gtr costs about the same as what the r32 did (once you take into account inflation, etc), so the sti wrx is about 1/3 the cost, has 2 less cylinders and 100cc smaller engine, and is designed to be something, that when modified, doesn't need to put out 1000hp, but only needs about 350 to 400hp with a buttload of traction and short gear ratios. different horses for different courses.

Yeah this i understand,but i have found so often that WRX drivers are ex-nissan owners that complain about not getting traction etc, so ideally they wanted 1000hp, but when they figured out they couldnt get the power to the ground (or thats its really hard to drive) they traded for less power..This is the gayness..

RBNT man i thought i was slack 6000km in 3 years, but you win..At least your car will be appreciating but.If not now eventually..There will be a boom period like the GTHOs in 20-30 years, if you can wait that long you will cash in fo' shizz

On the subject of ADM R32s, check out this one at Classic Throttle Shop (Nth Sydney),

Was listed at $70K and has just been sold.

http://www.classicthrottleshop.com.au/modernclassic22.html

Good money.

My car is exactly the same as that albeit with 20k more on the clock. Full books, original leather folder, owners manual, alf barbagallo's business card.

It was only on their lot for 3 weeks.

From memory, Wheels Magazine tested back in '91 or '92 it was 4.7 secs, ADM R32 GTR.

I have seen time vary from 4.7 - 5.3 secs.

Depending on the driver I guess...

Yes i know the GTR does im asking about the 2011 STI wrx

Yes i know the GTR does im asking about the 2011 STI wrx

They say it will be slightly faster then the hatch back version because it is lighter, but did not give an exact time measurement.

So what ever time the hatch back does, knock off afew micro secs I guess...

On the subject of ADM R32s, check out this one at Classic Throttle Shop (Nth Sydney),

Was listed at $70K and has just been sold.

http://www.classicthrottleshop.com.au/modernclassic22.html

Good money.

Yeah, awesome bootlid that doesn't line up....

My 32 was minter =/ (Wasn't ADM though)

Edited by Ten Four
Yes i know the GTR does im asking about the 2011 STI wrx

Somewhere slower than an R1 and faster than an Aurion.

Like it makes a toss of difference anyway. Surely there are more important ways to determine a car's performance potential than a single figure (which conveniently happens to be the GTR's strong point)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • What does it look like with highway driving? And yes, I had a similar thought as Duncan. It looks quite similar in my Stagea and I have made myself accept it as normal. Might have to look into it some day  
    • While I was waiting for the new parts to come in for the charge pipe and radiator I decided to do some turbo modification. The drive pressure (exhaust backpressure) was a lot higher that I thought it should be. For 32lbs of boost drive was 55lbs. The turbine housing is a 1.10AR and my turbo builder has suggested to go to a 1.25AR. To test if a larger AR would do anything to reduce drive pressure AND not spend any money I decided to hog out the divider in my current housing. I removed it from the inlet and the whole way through the housing.  After reassembly and testing it doesn't look like this modification did anything for reducing drive pressure or requiring more fuel (making more power). Oh well, it was worth a shot. We'll get some data at the track if it makes it past the 60ft. I also machined a $7 shift knob off Amazon to fit my Stillway shifter since I didn't like the Stillway shift knob. Next on the list was the radiator replacement and fabrication of a new intercooler tube that had no silicon coupler. No pictures of this - I was short on time each night after work to get this done and didn't stop to take pictures.  Next was to get the clutch disks out and replaced. Previously when installing the dogbox I had ordered a set of the same sintered iron disks I had been running because I switched to the 26-spline input shaft. I thought it was odd that they didn't have any markings or brand name on them like all my old disks had but installed them anyway. At the track I could not get the clutch to lock up using my normal strategies. After two track nights I reached out to the clutch manufacturer and ask their thoughts. They said they had to switch the material out because they were having trouble getting the original material and that this new material would not take to being slipped very well.  So out with the first set of 26-spline disks and in with the correct material 26-spline disks. While I had the trans out I added an inspection/service hole. I've wanted one of these for a while. Now I can have a look at things and change the front cover shimming when needed (clutch wear). I hustled and got the clutch change done in a few hours on a Saturday. Hopped in the car and drove home. On the way home I did a 1-3 pull. When shifting from 2nd to 3rd the core plug in the back of the cylinder head popped out and dumped all the coolant. Thankfully I was only 30 seconds from home and coasted it there. Datalog showed nothing unusual and 2.5psi of coolant pressure. That plug has been in there since 1992 but I guess it worked its way out. Pulled the trans AGAIN and replaced the plug, JB welded it in, and made a brace. Also deleted the head drain I had added in during the bearing issue fiasco.  I am currently changing my boost control plumbing to make it cleaner. After that is done I'll make another attempt at getting past the 60.
    • Are you 100% sure this isn't tune related?
    • 140-150 across the board. At this point hoping the grounding harness fixes it. My grounds are all tied to the chassis and none to the battery. For SR and KA that’s never been a problem for me but had a few other guys here and Reddit who told me RB really like a very solid ground setup tied to the battery so going to try that next, I’m stumped if that doesn’t do it. Never had a car have spark and fuel and not fire off before. Only thing I can think is the spark is intermittent/weak because of grounds nothing else really makes sense at this point 
    • I am having close to the same issue. Can you help me with what wire you grounded to get your pump to trigger?
×
×
  • Create New...