Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys i am currently working on an r32 gtst project i picked up cheap, engine is blown and engine bay is a mess so once i am done pulling the engine out and stripping/respraying the bay i am looking at completely rebuilding the rb20 block and head all machined, cracktested, balanced, blueprinted, forged internals, better oil pump bigger cams and so on. i know strokeing the engine is also an option but am not sure as to what other stuff will be required on the tuneing side of things. Has anyone had any experience with a stroked rb20 please let me know. Car also has rb25 box, button clutch, one piece tailshaft and nismo 2 way and also note will need to go into vic roads first with stock bolt ons as reg was cancelled by previous owner

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/327335-to-stroke-or-not-to-stroke/
Share on other sites

The beauty of RB engines is most of the parts are interchangable! IIRC you can use an 26 crank and 26/25 rods to displace about 2.4L...

Read about it here: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Pr...tml&hl=Rb24

however it would be heaps easier to fit an RB25/26... Apart from purely being different, I don't know why you'd bother with the RB24...

Sounds like a cool project. Good luck dude.

That was definately a good read, i had originaly thought about the rb25 but it does seem that everyone has done it and it also involves me buying an rb25 with loom and then rebuilding it anyway, and yes before anyone tells me i do know how much easier it is to gain power from the 25 but i realy want to chase a safe and almost street legal 250rwkw from the rb20. The stroke kit i was thinking about was something like this http://www.lewisengines.com.au/prod158.htm

That's pretty expensive for only 250cc more mate.

Keep in mind you could pick up a blown rb26 for less than 2k and use that crank and those rods with some custom pistons for 400cc more... Not to mention you could sell off the rest of the RB for some decent coin... Have a look in the forsale section, I've seen a few broken 26s for sale...

That stroker is a waste of money IMO, considering $5.5k = +250cc, or less than $2k can equal +400cc...

[edit] just saw that $5.5k is for a conplete engine package, my bad! That seems like a half decent engine package then! Personally I'd prefer more CCs if I was gonna go to all the extent of a stroker motor.

Edited by turbo x-trail

If all you are after is 250rwkws then just throw in a std motor or do a simple rebuild with new bearings. There are plenty of people running around with 250-280rwkws in std RB20s with std plenums, cams, heads and bottom ends. They are strong motors.

I hear what people say about bigger RB transplants, but there is the engineering side of things to consider and registration/insurance side of things that mean its not so easy. Also, if you want all out performance i find it strange that so many people buy into the torque wins races etc. Sure its important and great on a street car as it makes the performance so lazy....but in a rwd platform it means you often spent lots of your time going sideways rather then forward. R32s are not that heavy so dont really need huge amounts of torque. Look at rotors, once on boost its jsut as much about hp then it is about torque down low. They are also geared pretty short std so forget all about what rpm the thing makes boost and power an dconsider at what road speed does the thing make power and boost. Small differentiation but makes a big difference to the performance of a car and something that so many people dont even consider. They see a dyno and they want the x scale in rpm? Why, its road speed that matters! Take this for example... Here is an example of what i was saying about not to forget wheel diameter and gearing. Here is the same RB20 (internally 100% std, cams head gasket etc)above vs two R34 Neo RB25s running GCG high Flow Turbos and Tomei cams.

gallery_462_50_14883.jpg

I think there are a few options...

STD RB20 with a turbo and ECU upgrade

gallery_462_50_59282.jpg

Compared to a std turbo RB26 with Poncams, and same dyno and same tuner

Dyno_220305.jpg

As you would expect the Rb26 spans the RB20 down low, but in the rev range that you use at the track the RB20 punches well above its weight!

If you really want to rebuild it then i think all you want to do is go oversized pistons, bump compression up to 9.0:1 and run a nice turbo and tune, even better if you can get E85 with the higher compression ratio. 2.1-2.2L with a bump in compression to help with the off boost drivability.

It is all relative, but i think its good to hear and read different experiences and examples. Torque is great at frying tyres, but if youa re going to put the bigger RB in the R32 GTSt you probably want the longer diff ratio and better supension to try and help with handling the torque hike.

or you could just 'hang it all' and do an RB30..............

+11ty

yes, Roy, road speed and traction has its merits. but i think when you own a rwd turbo nissan then the ability to go sideways was probably a sizeable factor in what influenced your choice of vehicle in the first place..

+11ty

just a question regarding stroking (lol), that lengthens the stroke by shortening the effective radius of the crank (don't know the name of the shaft), so that would result in less torque right? so am i right in saying you're hoping the extra cc's will make up for that?

sorry to deviate

dont stroke

drop in an rb25 with some simple mods and it will put out more than what u want for way cheaper.

if u wanna be really different chuck in an sr20det with a 3071r strapped to it.

now that would be fun lol

Galois..eh??

given that CC's = BORE x STROKE x NO. of CYLS, when you increase stroke alone, you are adding cc's, and adding stroke is the key way to generate more torque from an engine right across the board. as when the piston gets pushed down on combustion stroke, the point at which the connecting rod joins the crank gives the piston a certain amount of leverage to turn the crank, and the longer the stroke, the futher the connecting point is from the center of the crank shaft. more leverage on the crank = more torque at any given rpm basically.

im not sure what you mean by "effective radius of the crank". but put in laymens terms for you, "no"

Go the 26. Roy knows that the 26 is the way to go but won't admit it. His 20 love is to strong!

So much easier to pedal a 26 vs 20.

I'd personally go a 25/30 with a xr6 turbo, gtr inj and remap. Could prob have it in and running $2k

snip/ rb torque hate

Wheres the love? :bunny:

Every thread like this gets side railed by people confusing the search for better with a bigger motor. Sense means putting the best air pump in the car (25/26 lovers). Forget them though if you want to stick with the 2lt, then do so. Costs will be as expensive as you make it.

Ill probably throw a 2.4Lt together for fun at some point, because i want to see what a rev happy motor is like in the 32.

Yeh, if you have a decent enough budget, or the skills to do thins yourself then that is a big factor. But agree that strokers represent poor value compared to what other options. I will do one because I have been grabbing the parts when the pop up cheat (about 5 years). So now how have Tomei 2.4L pistons, solid lfters, cams, springs crank and rods all for less then 2k

But its all been said before. RB30s are for those that prefer roofies to romance. And RB25 into R32 transplants are for those that would sleep with their girlfriend's easy friend! ... i suppose i should add that if brains were dynamite most RB20 owners could not blow their noses :bunny:

Thnx guys, feedback was great but i definately want to go with a built or stroked rb20 and i want everything that can be done internaly done purely for my own peice of mind (its like buying a new car, you know theirs nothing wrong with it and its 100% up to how you treat it that will determine how long it lasts) and then if i want to chase more power out of it in future it will be ready for it, no point in doing shit twice. As for the 2.4 ltr may be a little bit of over kill and i would be happy with just that 2.25 kit from lewis engines, i just want to know between the built 2.0ltr and the built 2.25 litre will their be much of a difference... and also when it come time to tune what would be the best way to tune the 2.25 ? can say an rb20 power fc be made to run it properly ?

Also my plans for the engine after the build and vic roads has passed it for reg are splitfire coil packs, some sort of better injectors (maybe sard 600cc or anything else someone can recomend for the mods) hybrid fmic, z32, bosch 040, rb25 highflowed (have OP6) and not sure what kind of wastegate yet because i only want about 15 pounds and undecided on tune or ecu and am open to recomendations. Any idea on roughly what kind of power that might pull at wheels ? on both the build 20 and how much more might i get with the 2.25 or will i only realy see a torque increase ?

Thnx again guys any more feedback would be great, also as i am new here just abit about me..

Names Leo, live in melbourne south east and love my motorbikes and big 8's (jap is all new to me and am keen to learn more), im not a mechanic i work as a sub contractor in a 6pallet refridgerated truck although i am pretty confident around an engine bay and do know more than the basic also do a lot of work in the garage on my own and mates cars like changing over engines, suspension diffs gearboxes and just anything that doesnt get too complicated although i love to give anything a shot just for the sake of learning, im 21 and pretty immature which reflect in my driving/riding although i am becomeing more tame with age. Thats all i think

Lots of people ask about strokers and talk abotu RB20 build ups...but typically they are never seen to fruition. I am the worlds worst offender :bunny: I think you will struggle to get definitive feedback on the improvements from a 2.2L. Expect that it may make the same difference of dropping an A/R housing, so guess about 200-300rpm improvement in lowering the power band!??!?!?!?!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • Any update on this one? did you manage to get it fixed?    i'm having the same issue with my r34 and i believe its to do with the smart entry (keyless) control module but cant be sure without forking out to get a replacement  
    • So this being my first contribution to the SAU forums, I'd like to present and show how I had to solve probably one of the most annoying fixes on any car I've owned: replacing a speedometer (or "speedo") sensor on my newly acquired Series 1 Stagea 260RS Autech Version. I'm simply documenting how I went about to fix this issue, and as I understand it is relatively rare to happen to this generation of cars, it is a gigantic PITA so I hope this helps serve as reference to anyone else who may encounter this issue. NOTE: Although I say this is meant for the 260RS, because the gearbox/drivetrain is shared with the R33 GTR with the 5-speed manual, the application should be exactly the same. Background So after driving my new-to-me Stagea for about 1500km, one night while driving home the speedometer and odometer suddenly stopped working. No clunking noise, no indication something was broken, the speedometer would just stop reading anything and the odometer stopped going up. This is a huge worry for me, because my car is relatively low mileage (only 45k km when purchased) so although I plan to own the car for a long time, a mismatched odometer reading would be hugely detrimental to resale should the day come to sell the car. Thankfully this only occurred a mile or two from home so it wasn't extremely significant. Also, the OCD part of me would be extremely irked if the numbers that showed on my dash doesn't match the actual ageing of the car. Diagnosing I had been in communication with the well renown GTR shop in the USA, U.P.garage up near University Point in Washington state. After some back and forth they said it could be one of two things: 1) The speedometer sensor that goes into the transfer case is broken 2) The actual cluster has a component that went kaput. They said this is common in older Nissan gauge clusters and that would indicate a rebuild is necessary. As I tried to figure out if it was problem #1, I resolved problem #2 by sending my cluster over to Relentless Motorsports in Dallas, TX, whom is local to me and does cluster and ECU rebuilds. He is a one man operation who meticulously replaces every chip, resistor, capacitor, and electronic component on the PCB's on a wide variety of classic and modern cars. His specialty is Lexus and Toyota, but he came highly recommended by Erik of U.P.garage since he does the rebuilds for them on GTR clusters.  For those that don't know, on R32 and R33 GTR gearboxes, the speedometer sensor is mounted in the transfer case and is purely an analog mini "generator" (opposite of an alternator essentially). Based on the speed the sensor spins it generates an AC sine wave voltage up to 5V, and sends that via two wires up to the cluster which then interprets it via the speedometer dial. The signal does NOT go to the ECU first, the wiring goes to the cluster first then the ECU after (or so I'm told).  Problems/Roadblocks I first removed the part from the car on the underside of the transfer case (drain your transfer case fluid/ATF first, guess who found out that the hard way?), and noted the transfer case fluid was EXTREMELY black, most likely never changed on my car. When attempting to turn the gears it felt extremely gritty, as if something was binding the shaft from rotating properly. I got absolutely no voltage reading out of the sensor no matter how fast I turned the shaft. After having to reflow the solder on my AFM sensors based on another SAU guide here, I attempted to disassemble the silicone seal on the back of the sensor to see what happened inside the sensor; turns out, it basically disintegrated itself. Wonderful. Not only had the electrical components destroyed themselves, the magnetic portion on what I thought was on the shaft also chipped and was broken. Solution So solution: find a spare part right? Wrong. Nissan has long discontinued the proper sensor part number 32702-21U19, and it is no longer obtainable either through Nissan NSA or Nissan Japan. I was SOL without proper speed or mileage readings unless I figured out a way to replace this sensor. After tons of Googling and searching on SAU, I found that there IS however a sensor that looks almost exactly like the R33/260RS one: a sensor meant for the R33/R34 GTT and GTS-T with the 5 speed manual. The part number was 25010-21U00, and the body, plug, and shaft all looked exactly the same. The gear was different at the end, but knowing the sensor's gear is held on with a circlip, I figured I could just order the part and swap the gears. Cue me ordering a new part from JustJap down in Kirrawee, NSW, then waiting almost 3 weeks for shipping and customs clearing. The part finally arrives and what did I find? The freaking shaft lengths don't match. $&%* I discussed with Erik how to proceed, and figuring that I basically destroyed the sensor trying to get the shaft out of the damaged sensor from my car. we deemed it too dangerous to try and attempt to swap shafts to the correct length. I had to find a local CNC machinist to help me cut and notch down the shaft. After tons of frantic calling on a Friday afternoon, I managed to get hold of someone and he said he'd be able to do it over half a week. I sent him photos and had him take measurements to match not only the correct length and notch fitment, but also a groove to machine out to hold the retentive circlip. And the end result? *chef's kiss* Perfect. Since I didn't have pliers with me when I picked up the items, I tested the old gear and circlip on. Perfect fit. After that it was simply swapping out the plug bracket to the new sensor, mount it on the transfer case, refill with ATF/Nissan Matic Fluid D, then test out function. Thankfully with the rebuilt cluster and the new sensor, both the speedometer and odometer and now working properly!   And there you have it. About 5-6 weeks of headaches wrapped up in a 15 minute photo essay. As I was told it is rare for sensors of this generation to die so dramatically, but you never know what could go wrong with a 25+ year old car. I HOPE that no one else has to go through this problem like I did, so with my take on a solution I hope it helps others who may encounter this issue in the future. For the TL;DR: 1) Sensor breaks. 2) Find a replacement GTT/GTS-T sensor. 3) Find a CNC machinist to have you cut it down to proper specs. 4) Reinstall then pray to the JDM gods.   Hope this guide/story helps anyone else encountering this problem!
    • So this being my first contribution to the SAU forums, I'd like to present and show how I had to solve probably one of the most annoying fixes on any car I've owned: replacing a speedometer (or "speedo") sensor on my newly acquired Series 1 Stagea 260RS Autech Version. I'm simply documenting how I went about to fix this issue, and as I understand it is relatively rare to happen to this generation of cars, it is a gigantic PITA so I hope this helps serve as reference to anyone else who may encounter this issue. NOTE: Although I say this is meant for the 260RS, because the gearbox/drivetrain is shared with the R33 GTR with the 5-speed manual, the application should be exactly the same. Background So after driving my new-to-me Stagea for about 1500km, one night while driving home the speedometer and odometer suddenly stopped working. No clunking noise, no indication something was broken, the speedometer would just stop reading anything and the odometer stopped going up. This is a huge worry for me, because my car is relatively low mileage (only 45k km when purchased) so although I plan to own the car for a long time, a mismatched odometer reading would be hugely detrimental to resale should the day come to sell the car. Thankfully this only occurred a mile or two from home so it wasn't extremely significant. Also, the OCD part of me would be extremely irked if the numbers that showed on my dash doesn't match the actual ageing of the car. Diagnosing I had been in communication with the well renown GTR shop in the USA, U.P.garage up near University Point in Washington state. After some back and forth they said it could be one of two things: 1) The speedometer sensor that goes into the transfer case is broken 2) The actual cluster has a component that went kaput. They said this is common in older Nissan gauge clusters and that would indicate a rebuild is necessary. As I tried to figure out if it was problem #1, I resolved problem #2 by sending my cluster over to Relentless Motorsports in Dallas, TX, whom is local to me and does cluster and ECU rebuilds. He is a one man operation who meticulously replaces every chip, resistor, capacitor, and electronic component on the PCB's on a wide variety of classic and modern cars. His specialty is Lexus and Toyota, but he came highly recommended by Erik of U.P.garage since he does the rebuilds for them on GTR clusters.  For those that don't know, on R32 and R33 GTR gearboxes, the speedometer sensor is mounted in the transfer case and is purely an analog mini "generator" (opposite of an alternator essentially). Based on the speed the sensor spins it generates an AC sine wave voltage up to 5V, and sends that via two wires up to the cluster which then interprets it via the speedometer dial. The signal does NOT go to the ECU first, the wiring goes to the cluster first then the ECU after (or so I'm told).  Problems/Roadblocks I first removed the part from the car on the underside of the transfer case (drain your transfer case fluid/ATF first, guess who found out that the hard way?), and noted the transfer case fluid was EXTREMELY black, most likely never changed on my car. When attempting to turn the gears it felt extremely gritty, as if shttps://imgur.com/6TQCG3xomething was binding the shaft from rotating properly. After having to reflow the solder on my AFM sensors based on another SAU guide here, I attempted to disassemble the silicone seal on the back of the sensor to see what happened inside the sensor; turns out, it basically disintegrated itself. Wonderful. Not only had the electrical components destroyed themselves, the magnetic portion on what I thought was on the shaft also chipped and was broken. Solution So solution: find a spare part right? Wrong. Nissan has long discontinued the proper sensor part number 32702-21U19, and it is no longer obtainable either through Nissan NSA or Nissan Japan. I was SOL without proper speed or mileage readings unless I figured out a way to replace this sensor. After tons of Googling and searching on SAU, I found that there IS however a sensor that looks almost exactly like the R33/260RS one: a sensor meant for the R33/R34 GTT and GTS-T with the 5 speed manual. The part number was 25010-21U00, and the body, plug, and shaft all looked exactly the same. The gear was different at the end, but knowing the sensor's gear is held on with a circlip, I figured I could just order the part and swap the gears. Cue me ordering a new part from JustJap down in Kirrawee, NSW, then waiting almost 3 weeks for shipping and customs clearing. The part finally arrives and what did I find? The freaking shaft lengths don't match. $&%* I discussed with Erik how to proceed, and figuring that I basically destroyed the sensor trying to get the shaft out of the damaged sensor from my car. we deemed it too dangerous to try and attempt to swap shafts to the correct length. I had to find a local CNC machinist to help me cut and notch down the shaft. After tons of frantic calling on a Friday afternoon, I managed to get hold of someone and he said he'd be able to do it over half a week. I sent him photos and had him take measurements to match not only the correct length and notch fitment, but also a groove to machine out to hold the retentive circlip. And the end result? *chef's kiss* Perfect. Since I didn't have pliers with me when I picked up the items, I tested the old gear and circlip on. Perfect fit. After that it was simply swapping out the plug bracket to the new sensor, mount it on the transfer case, refill with ATF/Nissan Matic Fluid D, then test out function. Thankfully with the rebuilt cluster and the new sensor, both the speedometer and odometer and now working properly!   And there you have it. About 5-6 weeks of headaches wrapped up in a 15 minute photo essay. As I was told it is rare for sensors of this generation to die so dramatically, but you never know what could go wrong with a 25+ year old car. I HOPE that no one else has to go through this problem like I did, so with my take on a solution I hope it helps others who may encounter this issue in the future. For the TL;DR: 1) Sensor breaks. 2) Find a replacement GTT/GTS-T sensor. 3) Find a CNC machinist to have you cut it down to proper specs. 4) Reinstall then pray to the JDM gods.   Hope this guide/story helps anyone else encountering this problem!
    • perhaps i should have mentioned, I plugged the unit in before i handed over to the electronics repair shop to see what damaged had been caused and the unit worked (ac controls, rear demister etc) bar the lights behind the lcd. i would assume that the diode was only to control lighting and didnt harm anything else i got the unit back from the electronics repair shop and all is well (to a point). The lights are back on and ac controls are working. im still paranoid as i beleive the repairer just put in any zener diode he could find and admitted asking chatgpt if its compatible   i do however have another issue... sometimes when i turn the ignition on, the climate control unit now goes through a diagnostics procedure which normally occurs when you disconnect and reconnect but this may be due to the below   to top everything off, and feel free to shoot me as im just about to do it myself anyway, while i was checking the newly repaired board by plugging in the climate control unit bare without the housing, i believe i may have shorted it on the headunit surround. Climate control unit still works but now the keyless entry doesnt work along with the dome light not turning on when you open the door. to add to this tricky situation, when you start the car and remove the key ( i have a turbo timer so car remains on) the keyless entry works. the dome light also works when you switch to the on position. fuses were checked and all ok ive deduced that the short somehow has messed with the smart entry control module as that is what controls the keyless entry and dome light on door opening   you guys wouldnt happen to have any experience with that topic lmao... im only laughing as its all i can do right now my self diagnosed adhd always gets me in a situation as i have no patience and want to get everything done in shortest amount of time as possible often ignoring crucial steps such as disconnecting battery when stuffing around with electronics or even placing a simple rag over the metallic headunit surround when placing a live pcb board on top of it   FML
    • Bit of a pity we don't have good images of the back/front of the PCB ~ that said, I found a YT vid of a teardown to replace dicky clock switches, and got enough of a glimpse to realize this PCB is the front-end to a connected to what I'll call PCBA, and as such this is all digital on this PCB..ergo, battery voltage probably doesn't make an appearance here ; that is, I'd expect them to do something on PCBA wrt power conditioning for the adjustment/display/switch PCB.... ....given what's transpired..ie; some permutation of 12vdc on a 5vdc with or without correct polarity...would explain why the zener said "no" and exploded. The transistor Q5 (M33) is likely to be a digital switching transistor...that is, package has builtin bias resistors to ensure it saturates as soon as base threshold voltage is reached (minimal rise/fall time)....and wrt the question 'what else could've fried?' ....well, I know there's an MCU on this board (display, I/O at a guess), and you hope they isolated it from this scenario...I got my crayons out, it looks a bit like this...   ...not a lot to see, or rather, everything you'd like to see disappears down a via to the other side...base drive for the transistor comes from somewhere else, what this transistor is switching is somewhere else...but the zener circuit is exclusive to all this ~ it's providing a set voltage (current limited by the 1K3 resistor R19)...and disappears somewhere else down the via I marked V out ; if the errant voltage 'jumped' the diode in the millisecond before it exploded, whatever that V out via feeds may have seen a spike... ....I'll just imagine that Q5 was switched off at the time, thus no damage should've been done....but whatever that zener feeds has to be checked... HTH
×
×
  • Create New...