Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

need to pick someone's brain

car is r33 gtst

52mm isc alloy radiator

link ecu

basically the car runs so cold on my stock gauge im not sure its even up 2 running temp? and might explain my horrible fuel economy?perhaps in cold start alot?

i know its winter and all.. but during the day time it will get about 3mm above the cold on gauge 22 degree day... and at night it barely moves off the cold gauge lol 8 degrees last nite..

what could i do 2 try and bring it up more?

thanx

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/327400-r33-operating-temp/
Share on other sites

you cant really judge the temp from the stock gauge

i've got an ecutalk display and it reads the stock sensors

my gauge will start moving off the bottom at about 60° and the middle is about 80° but 80° to 90° it doesn't really move

if you want to know what temp its running you could get an aftermarket gauge and put the sender in the return pipe of the radiator (supercheap sell adaptors that you cut the radiator hose in half and put in the middle)

or go to jaycar and get an lcd temp display kit (prob have to assemble it yourself but its easy) and leave it in your car permanently

Put the stock radiator back!

But seriously take your thermostat out and test it in a jug adding hot water till it opens - or since you have gone to the trouble of pulling it out just put a new one in anyway. You should get a rough idea of how hot your motor is by the output of the heater. If there is nothing wrong with your thermostat try blanking off two thirds of your radiator for the winter.

replace the thermostat, it shouldnt matter what temp it is outside its job is to keep the motor around 80c and will only flow enough coolant out to keep it there. once they get old they can get stuck open and it takes ages to get the car up to temp wasting fuel and not allowing it to run at the correct temp it was designed for if you have a good radiator fitted.

you cant really judge the temp from the stock gauge

i've got an ecutalk display and it reads the stock sensors

my gauge will start moving off the bottom at about 60° and the middle is about 80° but 80° to 90° it doesn't really move

if you want to know what temp its running you could get an aftermarket gauge and put the sender in the return hose of the radiator (supercheap sell adaptors that you cut the radiator hose in half and put in the middle)

or go to jaycar and get an lcd temp display kit (prob have to assemble it yourself but its easy) and leave it in your car permanently

NO. put it in the top hose . from the thermo stat to the top radiator tank

it should run about 82 degrees . and idealy should be about half way up the gauge . does your heater go hot or only half arse . when its got as warm as you think its goin to get gout andt feel the top hose . it should be too hot to keep your hand on .

the gauge and the ecy have their own temperature senders .

there is talk about some ecus having different temperature sensors installed for the ecu to read . check if your two look stock

or just buy a new thermo stat . leave the alloy radiator in it . thremo stat most likely isnt doin its job

before going into solution mode, check the actual water temp with a digital thermometer

it might be perfectly ok and you are changing things quicker than underwear to possibly fix something that isnt broken

sorry, i meant return to the rad

i also meant to add that i thought the thermostat was at fault here

whip it out and boil the kettle, then pour the boiling water on the thermostat, it should open up

if not, get a new one - and don't get a low temp one, you just don't need it

Yep don't go off the stock gauge, there is no way to tell.

FYI i run between 69 & 73 degrees with a Race Radiators item on a typical day. You might need to just alter the cold start mapping and so on

69 to 73?? That sounds quite cold, thought the ideal operating temperature is around 80degrees?

Long as cold start is adjusted and so on, I don't have any economy issues to speak of :whistling:

I get 400-450km to a tank (55l) around town or around 550km cruising @ 100

So it's clearly not a problem, and makes the same power as everyone else!

69 to 73?? That sounds quite cold, thought the ideal operating temperature is around 80degrees?

its a 31 thing, myne does the same. will not budge from 69 at night time. got up to a boiling 82 out on the track :whistling:

Maybe, i also have a thick intercooler & a small A/C condenser all infront of the rad as well, and the front bar really doesnt let much air in given the intake is less than half the size of the rad.

It'd be interesting to have someone look properly into it and workout why :whistling:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Getting the setup right, is likely to cost multiples of the purchase price of the vehicle.
    • So it's a ginormous undertaking that will be a massive headache but will be sorta cool if pulled off right. And also expensive. I'm sure it'll be as expensive as buying the car itself. I don't think you could just do this build without upgrading other things to take the extra power. Probably lots of custom stuff as well. All this assuming the person has mechanical knowledge. I'm stupid enough to try it but smart enough to realize there's gonna be mistakes even with an experienced mechanic. I'm a young bloke on minimum wage that gets dopamine from air being moved around and got his knowledge from a Donut video on how engines work.]   Thanks for the response though super informative!
    • Yes, it is entirely possible to twincharge a Skyline. It is not....without problems though. There was a guy did it to an SOHC RB30 (and I think maybe it became or already was a 25/30) in a VL Commode. It was a monster. The idea is that you can run both compressors at relatively low pressure ratios, yet still end up with a quite large total pressure ratio because they multiply, not add, boost levels. So, if the blower is spun to give a 1.4:1 PR (ie, it would make ~40 kPa of boost on its own) and the turbo is set up to give a 1.4:1 PR also, then you don't get 40+40 = 80 kPa of boost, you get 1.4*1.4, which is pretty close to 100 kPa of boost. It's free real estate! This only gets better as the PRs increase. If both are set up to yield about 1.7 PR, which is only about 70 kPa or 10ish psi of boost each, you actually end up with about 1.9 bar of boost! So, inevitably it was a bit of a monster. The blower is set up as the 2nd compressor, closest to the motor, because it is a positive displacement unit, so to get the benefit of putting it in series with another compressor, it has to go second. If you put it first, it has to be bigger, because it will be breathing air at atmospheric pressure. The turbo's compressor ends up needing to be a lot larger than you'd expect, and optimised to be efficient at large mass flows and low PRs. The turbo's exhaust side needs to be quite relaxed, because it's not trying to provide the power to produce all the boost, and it has to handle ALL the exhaust flow. I think you need a much bigger wastegate than you might expect. Certainly bigger than for an engine just making the same power level turbo only. The blower effectively multiplies the base engine size. So if you put a 1.7 PR blower on a 2.5L Skyline, it's like turboing a 4.2L engine. Easy to make massive power. Plus, because the engine is blown, the blower makes boost before the turbo can even think about making boost, so it's like having that 4.2L engine all the way from idle. Fattens the torque delivery up massively. But, there are downsides. The first is trying to work out how to size the turbo according to the above. The second is that you pretty much have to give up on aircon. There's not enough space to mount everything you need. You might be able to go elec power steering pump, hidden away somewhere. but it would still be a struggle to get both the AC and the blower on the same side of the engine. Then, you have to ponder whether you want to truly intercool the thing. Ideally you would put a cooler between the turbo and the blower, so as to drop the heat out of it and gain even more benefit from the blower's positive displacement nature. But that would really need to be a water to air core, because you're never going to find enough room to run 2 sets of boost pipes out to air to air cores in the front of the car. But you still need to aftercool after the blower, because both these compressors will add a lot of heat, and you wil have the same temperature (more or less) as if you produced all that boost with a single stage, and no one in their right mind would try to run a petrol engine on high boost without a cooler (unless not using petrol, which we shall ignore for the moment). I'm of the opinnion that 2x water to air cores in the bay and 2x HXs out the front is probably the only sensible way to avoid wasting a lot of room trying to fit in long runs of boost pipe. But the struggle to locate everything in the limited space available would still be a pretty bad optimisation problem. If it was an OEM, they'd throw 20 engineers at it for a year and let them test out 30 ideas before deciding on the best layout. And they'd have the freedom to develop bespoke castings and the like, for manifolds, housings, connecting pipes to/from compressors and cores. A single person in a garage can either have one shot at it and live with the result, or spend 5 years trying to get it right.
    • Good to know, thank you!
    • It's a place for non car talk. There's whoretown which is general shit talking. But also other threads coving all sorts of stuff(a lot still semi car related)
×
×
  • Create New...