Jump to content
SAU Community

  

34 members have voted

You do not have permission to vote in this poll, or see the poll results. Please sign in or register to vote in this poll.

Recommended Posts

What are the fines for not having it, and how likely are you to get hit for it?

Mine is giving me the absolute shits. No matter how tight I wind down the butterfly nut, it still works it's way loose VERY quickly, and the constant noise of it rattling around in the boot while the wheel bounces is driving me insane. I'm very close to just ripping it out and ditching it.

To be honest, I very much doubt I'd use it if I copped a puncture. I'd stick with my car until assistance arrived anyway, as I really fking hate driving with that horrible POS anyway. Dangerous.

Thoughts?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/328734-removing-spare-wheelspace-saver/
Share on other sites

lol do you have to have a spare tyre in oz ?

in nz you dont have to have one .

if you have one and it fails a warrant ( tire shagged or its insecure) you just throw it out on the foot path and claim you dont have a spare . or done have one in your car when goin fo a warrant

Well in VIC the rule is I think if you do have one and the tyre is not roadworthy its defectable but if you done have one on you then its fine, so guess using the old excuse its geting a new tyre fitted onto it or something like that.

When i got defected here in Adelaide. My boot was all gutted and just had my Amp bolted to the spare tyre hole. They said you dont have to have one, so i just carried one of those silicon tyre sprays that you spray in your tyre to get it out of trouble.

I'm pretty sure some/all of the spray-in-a-can style tyre repair kits wreck the tyre somehow? I now the one that came with the 8' did, said on the label that once you spray it in, you need a new tyre when you get to a shop? Space-savers are a stupid idea. WTF are you supposed to do with a grotty full-size wheel when you change it?! (Under extenuating circumstances such as a full boot and passengers)

lol fair enough, I'll take your word for it :down:

If it wasn't in such good condition (even though it's a useless POS) I'd slash it to find out...I never thought to look for a valve, which would be an obvious giveaway. Only downside to me taking it out, is that my sub box will have nowhere to sit...might be a bit of dicking around...although it's not exactly the best setup anyway, since I've just bought some tie-downs and strapped the box to the strut brace rofl

exactly. And soon with performance mods coming up, I will have other defects to worry about anyway!

lol having said that though, police haven't looked twice at my car since I bought it. And it had 5% tint all round (since removed from front windows) and no front number plate! Only issues I ever had were from RTA inspectors in the carpark just after dropping of a friend at her yr12 formal, and that was only because of no front plate. Just told them the truth that the front bar had just been repaired, there were no holes for it yet. Didn't tell them I had no intention of ever drilling holes though :P they let me off no worries

Was only waiting until the plastic plates turned up so I could stick it to the lower lip of the bar anyway

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I get that taking off the head is best but that's a bit much for "just" valve seals. I was just under the impression that one would be able to rotate to TDC and be able to temporarily drop the valve without losing it and effectively having to remove the head to then recover it. I never knew people actually pushed rope into the cylinder to do valve seals hahaha So just to confirm, just going to TDC will not work? In that case I know when I do valve seals I'll maybe just remove the head and do some other things while I'm there, or just wait until I do an engine build.
    • The old approach was to fill the cylinder/chamber with a length of rope pushed in through the sparkplug hole. The new approach is to connect compressed air to the sparkplug hole and fill it with enough pressure to push the valves up. Doing either of these things with the head on and the engine in the car is a lot less pleasant than doing it properly.
    • Can't you put the pistons to TDC and then do the valve seals? Or will the drop down too far to pull them back up?
    • One thing I can tell you is, do it properly the first time. If you encounter unexpected problems just let the car sit for a week or two if you have to get some other parts or figure stuff out.  I'd have said go and use as many OEM parts as possible but since you want to change the turbo later on a custom kit is probably the better choice. Since I have no experience with RB25 just compare parts diagrams and images before buying a line kit and it should be easy to see if it has everything you need. Amayama has very good parts diagrams and part number lists, that is what I used a bunch to figure out what I might need. And don't forget to plan ahead and possibly renew other stuff that's easy to get to while you're in there doing the turbo lines. Happy wrenching
    • Update 4:   Hi all, good news. Engine is running and all the gaskets and seals seem to be working as intended. No leaks so far, even the JB Weld seems to hold. I flushed out the old coolant a few times and put in fresh coolant, not Nissan stuff, I decided to try the Ravenol Protect FL22, they claim it works for a wide variety of JDM cars and the opinions on it by some people were pretty good. And it has the nice poison green color! And man am I glad I bought a coolant system tester earlier this year, vacuum filling works wonders on this engine. I can definitely recommend this to anyone still doing it the old school way. All you need is compressed air supply. Will have to do a small test drive as soon as I can, I removed the gauge cluster again as the tacho needle was still bouncing around a bit but it was much better than before already.  I also found some cracks on all 4 tires inner and outer sidewalls. Apparently these tires should 't be parked on for extended periods or be kept under 0 degrees during storage, which I did not know. Clearly the previous owner didn't look into those details either, he probably bought them just cause they are cool semi-slicks. I'm just wondering how tf I am supposed to reach 30-80 degree tire temperatures on the public road consistenly, these tires were never going to work for my use case. I'll probably order Continental SportContact7 ones as these are the best allround summer tire available right now and I don't think I'll need anything crazier for now. Do let me know if you have experience with various tires and which ones you recommend.
×
×
  • Create New...