Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

My colleague in Japan had his Honda Gold wing stolen. The second time it happened within a month it was chained to a fence . When he came back the fence and the bike were gone.He now has a GPS tracker hidden on his 3rd bike.

I will have a 2002 Stagea and need some way to locate the vehicle.

What economical GPS hardware tracking options do I have in Australia currently. I have reviewed several threads but they maybe out of date given the pace technology is moving at, in this field.

What units and or services rate poorly?

Is there a better solution than this ,or chaining my car to a fence!!!! :)

The link is the type of thing I am seeking but the price is not what I was hoping for and ,at the moment I don't know if the unit will re charge here with our voltage.

http://www.spyassociates.com/no-monthly-fe...32.html?ref=264

I have come up with my own GPS tracking solution that I intend to provide to local car enthusiasts.

Please PM me if you want more details - but I have installed this system in about 15 cars now and it is very effective (and not too expensive - about $250 in upfront costs + $150 a year for the data SIM charges)

Edited by npl
The link is the type of thing I am seeking but the price is not what I was hoping for and ,at the moment I don't know if the unit will re charge here with our voltage.

http://www.spyassociates.com/no-monthly-fe...32.html?ref=264

Hi Samuri,

I'm in same boat as you. And also have narrowed my research to considering this same unit. Although have found it a little cheaper on Ebay UK. I can't see any problems with voltage as recharging is via the car 12v system. I certainly believe this is very cheap for an impressive 'live real-time' tracker and the fact you are not paying a third party in monitoring.

It also seems quite transferrable. Like any tracker, a quality install and well hidden is paramount.

Hi Samuri,

I'm in same boat as you. And also have narrowed my research to considering this same unit. Although have found it a little cheaper on Ebay UK. I can't see any problems with voltage as recharging is via the car 12v system. I certainly believe this is very cheap for an impressive 'live real-time' tracker and the fact you are not paying a third party in monitoring.

It also seems quite transferrable. Like any tracker, a quality install and well hidden is paramount.

Hi rob,

If I understand it correctly I need a sim card and then prepaid sim card to recharge each year. How much would this yearly cost be. I don't have a mobile phone and don't understand this mobile ph market .Do I need a mobile ph to recive info or can I just use a web based interface.

There is also the ability to have this connected directly to the car battery for US$50 I later found out.

Deals extreme sell cheap gsm gps trackers, they also sell cheap gsm and gps blockers and lock pick sets lol

It's a good idea the gsm tracking but ultimately i think the thieves will catch onto it soon. Still added to a club lock and immobilizer it can only help and make it harder for them.

FYI - this product being discussed has Geo fencing. That is you can set up a small area on a map, and when your car leaves that designated area it texts and calls you(?)

"Geo-fencing will cost per text and when it calls you and you answer it. If you leave it run, get a missed call then no charge. Call it back and connect to your Laptop/PC to see where it is. It will also send you a text message with its co-ordinates. Doubly covered!"

Why pay hundreds of dollars for montoring???

Self monitoring has to be the future.

I'm prepared to give this a go/test in my daily drive. And only one installer I'd trust.

if someone really wants your car... consider it gone no matter how much you spend on alarms

very true but without an alarm kiss it good bye and be ready to find it burned out by some punk who wanted a joy ride in your pride and joy.

a multi layered alarm/security is best. and must be used 100% of the time, even in your garage !!!!

  • 5 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

Mechanical devices such as club locks do add precious time for a theft.

Even a cheap one is worth it along with one or two alarms.

I'm sure it's been suggested before, but what about fabricating a basic lock that holds the pedals together.

Or something that locks the steering boss.

Being out of sight would be another surprise.

If you have to park in the city regularly, pull a fuse or two out as well. Fuel pump and ECU.

Put blown ones back in.

There's only a window of time for these C&^%$ to work.

I'm surprised there's hardly anything innovative available given how much of a problem car theft is.

  • 3 weeks later...

http://www.wheresmyride.com.au/login.html

I believe this website is run by a dude in the ACT section here, as he had a chat to me about it not that long ago.

More or less, I can't remember the cost of the parts is about $150, he'll help you install the basics if you're in ACT, and then you just need a data SIM....the best value for money one available is through Vodafone, but it's $150 for 12GB that doesn't expire for a year....massive overkill, but unfortunately there isn't any other alternatives (at least when I was speaking to him, may be now)

There's also optional fuel-cut and in-cabin microphone, but he's never bothered with those himself. Otherwise, it updates location every 15 seconds, and you can view location and travel statistics via the website. VERY good imo, just a little on the expensive side to have running.

http://www.wheresmyride.com.au/login.html

I believe this website is run by a dude in the ACT section here, as he had a chat to me about it not that long ago.

More or less, I can't remember the cost of the parts is about $150, he'll help you install the basics if you're in ACT, and then you just need a data SIM....the best value for money one available is through Vodafone, but it's $150 for 12GB that doesn't expire for a year....massive overkill, but unfortunately there isn't any other alternatives (at least when I was speaking to him, may be now)

There's also optional fuel-cut and in-cabin microphone, but he's never bothered with those himself. Otherwise, it updates location every 15 seconds, and you can view location and travel statistics via the website. VERY good imo, just a little on the expensive side to have running.

There is also another option now - Exetel SIM (Optus) that costs $2 per month for 150mb of data.

I will have a 2002 Stagea and need some way to locate the vehicle.

What economical GPS hardware tracking options do I have in Australia currently. I have reviewed several threads but they maybe out of date given the pace technology is moving at, in this field.

+1 for a self-contained solution.

I currently use NRMA CarCom; I am 'fairly unhappy' with the unit (sometimes it simply stops working,

I need to test it once per week); 'getting happier' with the service; but the monitoring costs are IMHO

outrageous ($350 p.a.). I don't believe anyone offering a free monitoring service intends to do it indefinitely

(or should be asked to).

I think the best option is GPS + GSM/3G + battery backup + message-requiring-response;

there are a few units on the market; but I want to move away from the third party involvement.

If I were to double the costs of all the required hardware @ RRP and add some money for a

software licence I would expect it to cost about $A300 - this is what I'd pay for a brand new

unit with warranty that simply required a SIM to operate. Say $450 installed.

Am I dreaming? Can / will an installer do that job for $A150 per unit? I imagine it would

take a couple of hours to do properly.

I would strongly recommend using one of those 365-day prepaid SIMs with auto-top-up.

The data charges levied for excess on those 'low-monthly-usage' plans are usually

horrendous (haven't looked at that specific Exetel; but $100/GB is not uncommon).

It would only take a small software bug to initiate massive charges on such a plan.

Cheers,

Saliya

  • 2 years later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about. Reliability of everything in a 34 drops MASSIVELY above the 300kw mark. Keeping everything going great at beyond that value will cost ten times the $. Clutches become shit, gearboxes (and engines/bottom ends) become consumable, traction becomes crap. The good news is looking legalish/actually being legal is slighly under the 300kw mark. I would make the assumption you want to ditch the stock plenum too and want to go a front facing unit of some description due to the cross flow. Do the bends on a return flow hurt? Not really. A couple of bends do make a difference but not nearly as much in a forced induction situation. Add 1psi of boost to overcome it. Nobody has ever gone and done a track session monitoring IAT then done a different session on a different intercooler and monitored IAT to see the difference here. All of the benefits here are likely in the "My engine is a forged consumable that I drive once a year because it needs a rebuild every year which takes 9 months of the year to complete" territory. It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about with this car.
    • By "reverse flow", do you mean "return flow"? Being the IC having a return pipe back behind the bumper reo, or similar? If so... I am currently making ~250 rwkW on a Neo at ~17-18 psi. With a return flow. There's nothing to indicate that it is costing me a lot of power at this level, and I would be surprised if I could not push it harder. True, I have not measured pressure drop across it or IAT changes, but the car does not seem upset about it in any way. I won't be bothering to look into it unless it starts giving trouble or doesn't respond to boost increases when I next put it on the dyno. FWIW, it was tuned with the boost controller off, so achieving ~15-16 psi on the wastegate spring alone, and it is noticeably quicker with the boost controller on and yielding a couple of extra pounds. Hence why I think it is doing OK. So, no, I would not arbitrarily say that return flows are restrictive. Yes, they are certainly restrictive if you're aiming for higher power levels. But I also think that the happy place for a street car is <300 rwkW anyway, so I'm not going to be aiming for power levels that would require me to change the inlet pipework. My car looks very stock, even though everything is different. The turbo and inlet pipes all look stock and run in the stock locations, The airbox looks stock (apart from the inlet being opened up). The turbo looks stock, because it's in the stock location, is the stock housings and can't really be seen anyway. It makes enough power to be good to drive, but won't raise eyebrows if I ever f**k up enough for the cops to lift the bonnet.
    • There is a guy who said he can weld me piping without having to cut chassis, maybe I do that ? Or do I just go reverse flow but isn’t reverse flow very limited once again? 
    • I haven’t yet cut the chassis, maybe I switch to a reverse flow. I’ve got the Intercooler mounted as I already had it but not cut yet. Might have to speak to an engineer 
    • Yes that’s another issue, I always have a front mount, plus will be turbo plus intake will big hasstle. I’ve been told if it looks stock they’re fine with it by a couple others who have done it ahahaha.    I know @Kinkstaah said the stock gtt airbox is limiting but I might just have to do that to avoid a defect so it atleast looks legit. Or an enclosed pod so it’s hidden away and feed air from the snorkel and below Intercooler holes like kinstaah mentioned. Hmm what to do 
×
×
  • Create New...