Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Time to pull the head off and open Pandora's box so to speak!

hope its just the head gasket and all your piston ring's are still in one piece.

before you do fill her up with oil too H line,

start car and let idle till warm.

pull the oil dipstick out and give her a couple for good rpm's.

if oil comes out dipstick hole rings are gone and its time to full motor out!!!

Good Luck!!!!!!

  • Replies 43
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Would you run a 100m sprint with a gay clown tied to your back?

No. Cause he'd f**k you the whole way....just like a piggyback ECU does

Hope you get this sorted mate,at no cost to you.I have learned to stay next to my liner while they are doing stuff,only way to see when they make a boo boo,hope it all works out for you. :D

 

To give you a basic run-down, car is an R32 GTST with  S2 RB25DET, S2 R33 Ecu, S2 R33 Loom w/custom wiring & S2 R33 5Sp Box w/ custom speedo mod & custom hardie spicer balance 1pc tail shaft with following engine mods:

* Nismo Coppermax Clutch Kit w/Lightweight flywheel

* Apexi Power intake w/solid 3" intake pipe to turbo

* GCG Garrett T3/T4 TB34H .50 Comp .58 Rear, 10psi actuator

* Standard RB25 Exhaust Manifold

* Liverpool Exhaust 3" V Band Dump/Front Pipe, High Flow Cat.

* Cooling Pro FMIC 600x300x70

* Standard RB25Plenum & Trottle

* Standard RB25 370cc Injectors

* Walbro 255Lh 550hp fuel-pump w/relay bypass

* Greeddy Profec B spec II Boost Controller

97030d1a.jpg

Waaa hahahahahahahaha what are funny bunch of flamin mongrels. They run 18psi on stock injectors with 11 AFR. I bet they also run like 30 degrees of timing or some thing. Its clearly stupid and wrong. Take your car back and get them to pay for rebuild. Mind telling us who tuned it? So we won't go there.

Edited by kwickr33
Waaa hahahahahahahaha what are funny bunch of flamin mongrels. They run 18psi on stock injectors with 11 AFR. I bet they also run like 30 degrees of timing or some thing. Its clearly stupid and wrong. Take your car back and get them to pay for rebuild. Mind telling us who tuned it? So we won't go there.

Verry good point,please tell,pm will do. :D

Waaa hahahahahahahaha what are funny bunch of flamin mongrels. They run 18psi on stock injectors with 11 AFR. I bet they also run like 30 degrees of timing or some thing. Its clearly stupid and wrong. Take your car back and get them to pay for rebuild. Mind telling us who tuned it? So we won't go there.

actually at 12:1

even so, aslong as the injectors arent close to maxxing its fine. without inj duty you cant tell how close they're running to the limit. nothing dangerous about running stock injectors at 100% if it was at 11:1, means you'd have to consume 10% more air just to come back to a normal AFR, 20% before it starts getting dangerous.

In theory the F-Con should work - there are a number of RB26 powered cars over here making 500 - 600kw with an F-Con but one of Auckland's top tuners is an F-con specialist - I haven't heard of any in Australia (not saying there isn't any but have never seen reference to one).

In theory the F-Con should work - there are a number of RB26 powered cars over here making 500 - 600kw with an F-Con but one of Auckland's top tuners is an F-con specialist - I haven't heard of any in Australia (not saying there isn't any but have never seen reference to one).

We know a bad idea when we see one

The injectors werent even ad ill take photos and post pics of the tips

ill get acomp test done on it too but it inst cranking either...

KiwiRS4T - whats the name of this top tuner...

Elite Racing - its well known that HKS F-Con are the best aftermarket ecu in japan all of thier biggest & baddest cars run them, people dont tune them because software is only available under license from HKS where you would have to fork out big cash to partake in their certified training courses which you have to pass an then you have to qualify as a certified HKS PRO Gold products dealer outside of japan to get a license to fly thier flag and have thier hardware amd soft ware available to the tuner, only after a final inspection from HKS represntatives on the workshop which will be representIng the HKS name. Also that sort of investment to tune a product is sometimes too much initial outlay for most.

Anyways i dont want to turn this into a HKS F-Con sucks or not debate

Edited by krayzie32
KiwiRS4T - whats the name of this top tuner...
Soichi Tate http://www.sthitec.co.nz/

Ex Nissan Japan - people bring their GTRs and other Rb powered cars from all over the country for him to tune (does all computers - but he is one of the few HKS specialists)

Elite Racing - its well known that HKS F-Con are the best aftermarket ecu in japan

I think Elite was making the point that you appear to have a piggyback, not full a ECU. Its a shame they call both products F-Con which makes you think the piggyback you have is a top piece of kit, when it isnt. Just like PowerFC != SAFC. Anyways all that is offtopic.

I think Elite was making the point that you appear to have a piggyback, not full a ECU. Its a shame they call both products F-Con which makes you think the piggyback you have is a top piece of kit, when it isnt. Just like PowerFC != SAFC. Anyways all that is offtopic.

:(

OP - Not turning this into a F-con is good or bad debate though. Out of all the voltage interceptors available, the HKS one would be the pick. But at the end of the day, you are just introducing another place for failure when using any piggyback system.

Other things like:

Walbro fuel pump

Standard Injectors

Are poor choices for any car hoping to make more than 220rwkw

I understand what you are saying about the training HKS make their tuners undergo which does eliminate fly-by-nighters and dodgey first timers.....but if you have that much faith in their capabilities, why are you even contemplating the thought of them being at fault?

No picture can be seen 100% until the puzzle is complete. Diagnose the failure, then you'll be able to work out what caused it, look at EVERY piece of the puzzle including the tune, and you will then have your answer. There is nothing anyone here can tell you without knowing ALL the facts.....until then, it's just speculation - as shit really does 'happen'

Walbro fuel pump

Standard Injectors

You are right about the standard injectors - would be interested to see the duty cycle - I would guess they are near limit.

But the Walbro should be OK. OP has directly wired it and I made 245awkw with that set up. (Having said that I am now adding a surge tank and an external Bosch 044 in the search for 300kw+)

You are right about the standard injectors - would be interested to see the duty cycle - I would guess they are near limit.

But the Walbro should be OK. OP has directly wired it and I made 245awkw with that set up. (Having said that I am now adding a surge tank and an external Bosch 044 in the search for 300kw+)

Yeah they are ok but have their limitations. I guess everyone has their horror stories and there are those that run them problem free. I only look at the Walbro website and see the flow drop to 170l/hr at 5 bar and that is enough for me to stay clear on anything wanting 240+ rwkw so I usually stipulate 220rwkw as a maximum to my customers when using that pump. I know you can probably get more out of them but as far as having full 'control' of the fuel system, it diminishes once you push them to their limit.

Sorry bout the confusion guys

i wasnt chasing big numbers i was happy when he made 198rwkw @ 10psi and then we opted to try a 14.5psi high boost option and thats where it was pinging, getting compressor surge and all other thing so i was told by him, car ddt idle when he starte before he did road test then he knew it was lean as jumped straight on to ecu and put more fuel in,

i was was more than happy with the results knowing the turbo was the limiting factor as it was already out of steam at the top end and was losing power with more revs due to comp surging issues, i wasnt being informed of what was happening as he was into a trance plotting figures away on his laptop, i didn under stand afrs safe levels of tunin etc etc and thats why i was asking questions to him along the way when i heard differem noises i never heard before...

Saying that tho i didnt ask the tuner to lean on it that hard... He knows whats safe level of afr i dont...

And as ive been informed by a few other tuners no more than afr of 11.5ish with australian pump fuel as the ron is no where near as good as japanese and chinese stuff yet

Not saying whether or not your tuner is to blame but looking around the options seem to be:

GT Auto Garage in Newmarket Brisbane appear to be HKS approved.

Other than that in other cities some guys get together and fly in a tuner from Japan!

Or you try to get Soichi to pop over but that wouldn't be cheap!.

Well my options in sydney are well regarded and i did attend one of the below listed nit saying hes not competent just saying that in my opinion things wernt done properly to ensure safe tuning add to that the fact that the car was in his hands the whole day

Options in sydney are:

Jim from Tunehouse, Marrickville (HKS Pro Gold Certified Dealers (Performance wholesale network))

Brian from Bel Garage, Regents Park (HKS Pro Gold Certified Dealers (performance wholesale network))

Tom from BD4's, Gladesville (independently certified by HKS Japan)

Yeah they are ok but have their limitations. I guess everyone has their horror stories and there are those that run them problem free. I only look at the Walbro website and see the flow drop to 170l/hr at 5 bar and that is enough for me to stay clear on anything wanting 240+ rwkw so I usually stipulate 220rwkw as a maximum to my customers when using that pump. I know you can probably get more out of them but as far as having full 'control' of the fuel system, it diminishes once you push them to their limit.

Well said about the Walbro Dan.

Mine had similar issues, 260rwkw and it was 12:1 AFR's which was odd.

Changed to a bosch, back to under 10:1 first run without a change :thumbsup:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Man, different parts but the same numbers is terrible @dbm7! And it doesn't help that most online shops don't list the part numbers at all. They just give a list of compatible models...
    • Slow when hot could also be because its getting more dynamic compression, OR things are getting a bit tighter once it is all expanded. If it were an earthing issue, typically I'd expect you to have it have issues all the time. Unless it's really a combination of both things. Where the higher compression, and things being a bit tighter, is giving that bit of extra load and you do need a slight clean up on the cables/connections.
    • Yeah, this is one of the most annoying things about nissan part numbers... I've got an unrelated example... Image is of the AT output shaft ~ they have the same part#, but clearly the shaft on the left is beefier design to that on the right ...the difference (essentially) is the 'lighter' shaft on the right, is for engines up to RB25DE (this includes RB20 variants) : the shaft on the left is for RB25/26DET(T)....are they interchangeable? Yes...but obviously one shaft is going to be stronger than the other...and, the lighter shaft is around USD115, but the heavier shaft closer to USD150...same part#... ...epc-data usually tells a tale ~ the amayama listing for 39100-23U60 has a note "Longest side is between 60 and 105 cm" ; no such info is there for 39100-23U70 ...and given the great disparity in price between the 2 parts, it makes me at least curious (to the point of caution) where the 'extra money' went? ...ie; these 2 parts have a cost difference that (to myself at least) isn't explained by 'plastic boot'...ie; with amayama there's AUD700 price difference ...plastic versus rubber?...I'm not seeing it like that...and 60cm ~ 105cm...??...that's a huge disparity....something hinky going on here... I'd try searching by VIN, not model... /2cents
    • I don't know for sure, but I'd expect them all to be interchangeable given the diff end and hub end don't move/change between any C34 series. Often Nissan will change part numbers and the aftermarket follows those year ranges; but the original part number change doesn't mean other parts won't fit. The change could be a change in material, internal parts or even just supplier. For example, all the RB gearbox to engine bolts are no longer available and there is a new part number instead. The only change is they went from cadmium plated bolts to zinc plated due to the issues manufacturing with Cadmium. They look different but work the same.
    • One year is a bit concerning. Did you try contacting GSP? It says 5 year warranty on the box if I remember correctly. I'm also running their driveshafts on my S2 Stagea.   You could check the part numbers on Amayama for your year. Here's the link for my 1998 which gives the 39100-23U60 part number. Well, that and 39100-23U70. https://www.amayama.com/en/genuine-catalogs/epc/nissan-japan/stagea/wgnc34/6649-rb25det/trans/391 What does it say for yours?
×
×
  • Create New...