Jump to content
SAU Community

Urgent Skyline R34 25 Gt-t Over 100000 Kms Worth The Money


Recommended Posts

Hi guys

i am planning to buy a 4 door r34 25gt-t turbo. It is over 130000 kms for 13 grands. I am just wondering if its worth it.I know it depends how its driven and all but generally if i buy it is it going to be worth it or should i look for another with under 50000 kms.

Please guys help me out i need help badly

least you know its prob genuine kms if its @ 130K

or its been wound back from 200K lol

check out the seats / steering wheel - good indication of how the car has been treated

if they are still in pretty good condition and its 130, i would say its been looked after very well - and genuine kms - people aint gonna wind it forward! :(

im sure people will be awake soon after their big nights with better advice :mad:

yeah you need to check the mechanical state and advise, instead of the ODO

take the ODO with a grain of salt, but still take it into consideration

and have some money aside in case it has demons

ie if you have a choice of Car a which is 16k with 85,000 or car B which is 130,000 for 13k id go for car A

again assuming it hasnt been wound back

Give me slab and I'll make it a 50,000km car to ease your mind. If it going to buy it doesn't matter how many km's. Stuff breaks. Cars shit themselve on first runs on dyno's after an engine rebuild so its really a gamble. My 32 gtst had a rb26 in it for two years but was sold stock motor with a fmic and exhaust even though it had been tracked and abused for 2 years. Looking at it you would have never known though.

I wouldn't care it seat and interior were worn as thet are cheap and easy to change. Pay attention to the underside of the car and how the engine runs, smooth all the way though revs, gears aren't notchy or whine and the diff locks up. No worn mounting rubber bushes in the driveline and the rails are straight. Clutch doesn't slip on a big launch and the car doesn't feel like a waterbed to drive. Pull out the boot panels to look for damage/respray as well as around doors and panels fit with good lines. Worn tyres brakes etc are cheap and easy also. If aircon doesn't work it a good indicator it might have been front ended for example.

I think you can definitely find a cheaper 4DR R34 GTT. Maybe $11-12k? With a lot less K's.

Hi Guys thanks so much for your advice.The winding back Odo is kinda making me paranoid. I guess you guys are right the condition of the engine matters.

Guys by the way i have found another car which is 2000 R34 25GT non tubo with 43,000kms on it with RWC and 1 year Rego.The car looks clean i was thinking i can make it turbo later down the track right?.

But its would be hard to tell that they are Genuine Kms or not. I am getting it for AUD12,000

Thanks guys appreciate your help

What's with the urgency? Don't rush in to buy a car man...it's the worst thing you can do. Take the time to look around and be patient.

you can turbo it later, but itll be cheaper to just buy a turbo model straight off if you are planning on doing that

Hi do you know how much a turbo will cost ?. i would like to have 100 bhp extra upmh lets say.

Cheers

My suggestion..

if you don;t kow a heap about cars..and many don't

get an inspection done by a reputable company.

my suggestion along with many others here is state roads

www.stateroads.com.au

this will give you a much better idea than asking people who have never seen the car.

this thread will give you an idea of why this is suggested...

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Do...p;hl=stateroads

agree with EMTS

or better yet to save you $$ and time come to the next sau vic meeting

find a local member near you and get them to come and check out cars

ie check out this car with me and offer beer or $ or spirits etc

most guys would give you a honest check of a car for the main skyline shit that breaks etc

Please do not attempt to get a N/A R34 GT and put a turbo in it. :ninja: (see sig!)

When I got mine, it was an utter NA+T abortion because I didn't really have the knowledge (suppose, couldnt have been helped as I did get it checked by stateroads)

That said

Checking out a lot more cars would have made all the difference in the world, so shop around. (or buy mine if I ever get mine back lolz)

Please do not attempt to get a N/A R34 GT and put a turbo in it. :ninja: (see sig!)

When I got mine, it was an utter NA+T abortion because I didn't really have the knowledge (suppose, couldnt have been helped as I did get it checked by stateroads)

That said

Checking out a lot more cars would have made all the difference in the world, so shop around. (or buy mine if I ever get mine back lolz)

Man i feel sorry for you. it happened to me when i bought a Prelude. f**k it still haunts me.Anyways i had a look at heaps of Skylines and found the one 2000 R34 25GT-T 118000kms for 12,500 grand.Lets see what happens

Thanks boys i will buy a turbo 25GTT instead.

I've done it in the back of my sedan, but not in the back of my coupe...

But that 12 grand gtt sounds kinda dodgy...

actually the price is 13,900 with RWC and One year Rego. He is giving it for 12500 without RWC but one year rego.W

Dodgy as in its too much or is too less :P

actually the price is 13,900 with RWC and One year Rego. He is giving it for 12500 without RWC but one year rego.W

Dodgy as in its too much or is too less :)

Try and buy a car that comes with RWC, because you don't know how much a RWC will set you back.

Also, don't bother trying to turbo an NA, especially a sedan, not worth it. A conversion will cost you like 2-4k, more if you want to upgrade brakes and all.

If it was me, I wouldn't pay more than $12k on the road for a sedan GTT. You can even pick up a GTT coupe for like $13k but semi auto.

Try and buy a car that comes with RWC, because you don't know how much a RWC will set you back.

Also, don't bother trying to turbo an NA, especially a sedan, not worth it. A conversion will cost you like 2-4k, more if you want to upgrade brakes and all.

If it was me, I wouldn't pay more than $12k on the road for a sedan GTT. You can even pick up a GTT coupe for like $13k but semi auto.

Sorry Guys I am a bit confused now about Turbo Vs non-turbo. I definetly need a 4 door but as you guys suggested that 13K is a bit steap for sedan GTT with 118000kms.I was thinking to go with 2000 R34 GT 4 doors then for around $11000 with RWC unregistered.But still it wont be Turbo so no point of having skyline without Turbo???.

f**k i am confused now. I like the turbo but what do i do with it.It would give me satisfaction when i drive it but do i need a turbo?Also what do you guys think about maintainence of turbo vs non-turbo and resale value.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The other problem was one of those "oh shit we are going to die moments". Basically the high spec Q50s have a full electric steering rack, and the povo ones had a regular hydraulic rack with an electric pump.  So couple of laps into session 5 as I came into turn 2 (big run off now, happily), the dash turned into a christmas tree and the steering became super heavy and I went well off. I assumed it was a tyre failure so limped to the pits, but everything was OK. But....the master warning light was still on so I checked the DTCs and saw – C13E6 “Heat Protection”. Yes, that bloody steering rack computer sitting where the oil cooler should be has its own sensors and error logic, and decided I was using the steering wheel too much. I really appreciated the helpful information in the manual (my bold) POSSIBLE CAUSE • Continuing the overloading steering (Sports driving in the circuit etc,) “DATA MONITOR” >> “C/M TEMPERATURE”. The rise of steering force motor internal temperature caused the protection function to operate. This is not a system malfunction. INSPECTION END So, basically the electric motor in the steering rack got to 150c, and it decided to shut down without warning for my safety. Didn't feel safe. Short term I'll see if I can duct some air to that motor (the engine bay is sealed pretty tight). Long term, depending on how often this happens, I'll look into swapping the povo spec electric/hydraulic rack in. While the rack should be fine the power supply to the pump will be a pain and might be best to deal with it when I add a PDM.
    • And finally, 2 problems I really need to sort.  Firstly as Matt said the auto trans is not happy as it gets hot - I couldn't log the temps but the gauge showed 90o. On the first day I took it out back in Feb, because the coolant was getting hot I never got to any auto trans issues; but on this day by late session 3 and then really clearly in 4 and 5 as it got hotter it just would not shift up. You can hear the issue really clearly at 12:55 and 16:20 on the vid. So the good news is, literally this week Ecutek finally released tuning for the jatco 7 speed. I'll have a chat to Racebox and see what they can do electrically to keep it cooler and to get the gears, if anything. That will likely take some R&D and can only really happen on track as it never gets even warm with road use. I've also picked up some eye wateringly expensive Redline D6 ATF to try, it had the highest viscosity I could find at 100o so we will see if that helps (just waiting for some oil pan gaskets so I can change it properly). If neither of those work I need to remove the coolant/trans interwarmer and the radiator cooler and go to an external cooler....somewhere.....(goodbye washer reservoir?), and if that fails give up on this mad idea and wait for Nissan to release the manual 400R
    • So, what else.... Power. I don't know what it is making because I haven't done a post tune dyno run yet; I will when I get a chance. It was 240rwkw dead stock. Conclusion from the day....it does not need a single kw more until I sort some other stuff. It comes on so hard that I could hear the twin N1 turbos on the R32 crying, and I just can't use what it has around a tight track with the current setup. Brakes. They are perfect. Hit them hard all day and they never felt like having an issue; you can see in the video we were making ground on much lighter cars on better tyres under brakes. They are standard (red sport) calipers, standard size discs in DBA5000 2 piece, Winmax pads and Motul RBF600 fluid, all from Matty at Racebrakes Sydney. Keeping in mind the car is more powerful than my R32 and weighs 1680, he clearly knows his shit. Suspension. This is one of the first areas I need to change. It has electronically controlled dampers from factory, but everything is just way too soft for track work even on the hardest setting (it is nice when hustling on country roads though). In particular it rolls into oversteer mid corner and pitches too much under hard braking so it becomes unstable eg in the turn 1 kink I need to brake early, turn through the kink then brake again so I don't pirouette like an AE86. I need to get some decent shocks with matched springs and sway bars ASAP, even if it is just a v1 setup until I work out a proper race/rally setup later. Tyres. I am running Yoko A052 in 235/45/18 all round, because that was what I could get in approximately the right height on wheels I had in the shed (Rays/Nismo 18x8 off the old Leaf actually!). As track tyres they are pretty poor; I note GTSBoy recently posted a porker comparo video including them where they were about the same as AD09.....that is nothing like a top line track tyre. I'll start getting that sorted but realistically I should get proper sized wheels first (likely 9.5 +38 front and 11 +55 at the rear, so a custom order, and I can't rotate them like the R32), then work out what the best tyre option is. BTW on that, Targa Tas had gone to road tyres instead of semi slicks now so that is a whole other world of choices to sort. Diff. This is the other thing that urgently needs to be addressed. It left massive 1s out of the fish hook all day, even when I was trying not too (you can also hear it reving on the video, and see the RPM rising too fast compared to speed in the data). It has an open diff that Infiniti optimistically called a B-LSD for "Brake Limited Slip Diff". It does good straight line standing start 11s but it is woeful on the track. Nismo seem to make a 2 way for it.
    • Also, I logged some data from the ECU for each session (mostly oil pressures and various temps, but also speed, revs etc, can't believe I forgot accelerator position). The Ecutek data loads nicely to datazap, I got good data from sessions 2, 3 and 4: https://datazap.me/u/duncanhandleyhgeconsultingcomau/250813-wakefield-session-2?log=0&data=7 https://datazap.me/u/duncanhandleyhgeconsultingcomau/250813-wakefield-session-3?log=0&data=6 https://datazap.me/u/duncanhandleyhgeconsultingcomau/250813-wakefield-session-4?log=0&data=6 Each session is cut into 3 files but loaded together, you can change between them in the top left. As the test sessions are mostly about the car, not me, I basically start by checking the oil pressure (good, or at least consistent all day). These have an electrically controlled oil pump which targets 25psi(!) at low load and 50 at high. I'm running a much thicker oil than recommended by nissan (they said 0w20, I'm running 10w40) so its a little higher. The main thing is that it doesn't drop too far, eg in the long left hand fish hook, or under brakes so I know I'm not getting oil surge. Good start. Then Oil and Coolant temp, plus intercooler and intake temps, like this: Keeping in mind ambient was about 5o at session 2, I'd say the oil temp is good. The coolant temp as OK but a big worry for hot days (it was getting to 110 back in Feb when it was 35o) so I need to keep addressing that. The water to air intercooler is working totally backwards where we get 5o air in the intake, squish/warm it in the turbos (unknown temp) then run it through the intercoolers which are say 65o max in this case, then the result is 20o air into the engine......the day was too atypical to draw a conclusion on that I think, in the united states of freedom they do a lot of upsizing the intercooler and heat exchanger cores to get those temps down but they were OK this time. The other interesting (but not concerning) part for me was the turbo speed vs boost graph: I circled an example from the main straight. With the tune boost peaks at around 18psi but it deliberately drops to about 14psi at redline because the turbos are tiny - they choke at high revs and just create more heat than power if you run them hard all the way. But you can also see the turbo speed at the same time; it raises from about 180,000rpm to 210,000rpm which the boost falls....imagine the turbine speed if they held 18psi to redline. The wastegates are electrically controlled so there is a heap of logic about boost target, actual boost, delta etc etc but it all seems to work well
    • hahah when youtube subscribers are faster than my updates here. Yes some vid from the day is up, here:  Note that as with all track day videos it is boring watching after the bloopers at the start.  The off was a genuine surprise to me, I've literally done a thousand laps around the place and I've never had instability there; basically it rolled into oversteer, slipped, gripped and spat me out. On the way off I mowed down one of the instructor's cones and it sat there all day looking at me with accusing cone eyes as I drove past. 1:13:20 was my fastest lap, and it was in the second session, 3rd lap.  It (or me!) got slower throughout the day as it got hotter.      
×
×
  • Create New...