Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey people.....ive just got back from cairns, and yes their are plenty of stingers and crocks in the water, prety must stayed in the pools at my resort.....

Anyway i get back in melbourne and the bloody car wont start.....i could sence that by cranking the car, i was at the same time draining the battery. after about 7 shots at trying to start the car i gave up and called the racv.

the car hadnt been started for about 7 days and my mother moved the car the day before to cut the grass but she didnt leave the car on to warm up.

The racv dude said the fuel injection system is like that, the factory battery is way to small for the cranking power it needs in case the car floods. He said that because the car wasnt on for long enough the fuel gets stuck and has noway to go and it caused the car to flood...

Has it ever happened to u guys before, im thinking of getting a bigger battery in case it happends again

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/33208-flooding-the-skyline/
Share on other sites

What a load of crock!

Unless you've got seriously leaking injectors, the fuel can only go back to the tank once you shut down the ECU (by not cranking the engine). In the short time it takes to try to start the engine, the engine can easily swallow the small amount of fuel that the injectors will allow into the cylinders.

Sure, if you don't run the engine for long enough, the battery doesn't get fully recharged, so it might be more difficult to start next time; but as for flooding.....pffft!

If you fit a pressure gauge in the fuel line, after you shut down the engine, the fuel pressure will be near 0 in about 1.5 hours. The fuel manages to leak back past the non-return valve in the pump.

Some of those RACV dudes are real di(kheads. I once helped out a couple of young people whose car (old Hillman Hunter, I recall) wouldn't start. They said the RACV guy reckoned they had a crook battery, yet it spun the engine like a beauty. I pulled the distributor cap, and noticed it had virtually no points gap. I set it by eye, they cranked the engine and it sprang to life - di(khead RACV people.

efi engines can flood if they are cranked over for a period of time without firing....especially if the engine is cold, as more fuel gets injected during cold cranking.

if an engine is flooded, try pressing the accelerator all the way to the floor and crank until it starts....fully open butterfly will let more air in to compensate for the extra fuel and dry the spark plugs...

as for the standard battery...its pathetic!!! i just recently got a big battery and the cranking has improved considerably...let me know if you want a recommendation of a battery shop.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • They're so beautiful 😍
    • Early last week, I became concerned that the car was feeling....slow. Most of my driving is commuting to/from work and there are few opportunities to get up it and convincingly make boost/power. It drives in vacuum almost all the time. But when you do occasionally get an opportunity, and.... it takes a little longer to start making power, and then there's not as much as you'd expect, and then you run out of road anyway and have to bottle out - it can be hard to be convinced that there's something wrong. But by the end of the week I was pretty convinced. Made an effort to get a decent test run. Took bloody forever to come up on boost and when it did it would only make about 50 kPa of pressure. There was no black smoke, no noise of a boost or exhaust leak, no evidence anywhere of an intercooler hose clamp being sloppy enough to let air escape. So.... not that sort of problem. Brainstorming led to thinking that the boost controller's solenoid might have failed in some way. No active boost control would just give wastegate pressure, which I was more or less getting, and the laggy behaviour could just be "normal" shitty boost response from an uncontrolled highflow. But a little extra 3rd party brainstorming led to the thought that the actuator circlip might have jumped off leaving me with a bluetooth wastegate. So, on Friday, off comes the stock heatshield (which is an annoying enough job on its own) to reveal - yup. WG is wide open. And.... it won't come back. It is jammed in the dump. Put the rod back on with a new circlip and tried driving it to get it hot in the hope that the capture was from thermal effects having been blown into the dump when hot and since cooled. Nope. Won't move, even with screwdriver mediated force when hot. Ran out of time to play. Came back to it yesterday. Unbolted the dump. Was lying under it with the dump jammed up against my guts undoing the bottom 2 bolts. Got them most of the way out and gave the dump a serious heave. It didn't noticeably move, but there was a satisfying "plink" noise from up to. Shuffle out and sure enough, gate is now closed. Nevermind that there was still the better part of an hour after that required to put it all back together. f**ken cars.
    • For your application, where you'll be at that 1/2" size or perhaps larger, yeah, excellent. Although not if you need a tight bending radius anywhere, because the corrugated stuff is not anywhere near as flexible as rubber/teflon cored stuff. But for turbo oil lines? No. Too big. They just don't do the corro stuff down at the ~1/4" ID size that you'd want, and if they did the OD of it would probably be a bit too fat for fitting it into the tight spaces available. I use hoses like that all the time for fuel gases (LPG, NG) and liquid fuels (HFO, diesels, waste oils). When we did the London Olympic cauldron, with the 204 individual burners on it, we had miles of the stuff (although a lot of that was teflon core). A bunch of that crap is still cluttering up the workshop, more than 12 years later!
    • Would something like this be an option  https://processhose.com/products/configurable-metal-hoses/1-2-in-t316-stainless-steel-annular-corrugated-configurable-flexible-metal-hose-assembly-with-ends-t304-single-braid-masterflex-af5550.html I'm looking at this for replacing the OEM EGR when installing a aftermarket intake plenum 
    • The once piece tail shafts with cv type joints on either end are the ones that end up vibrating and the vibration is caused by the cv joint binding as it turns, I’ve also seen them explode from the binding 
×
×
  • Create New...