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External Isolation Switch For 32 Gtr - Help

No.96

By No.96,
in Motorsport Discussion & Builds

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No.96 Community Regular

No.96

Posted
Posted

G'Day,

I need to put in an external isolation switch in my gtr. I have a few questions.

The switch needs to kill the main power and turn the engine off. I assume this means putting a switch in the positive main battery lead and the wire that goes to the aternator?

The switch needs to be close to the A pillar on the drivers side. Has anyone got any photos or descriptions of setup they have used?

Thanks

Michael

bubba Grand Master

bubba

Posted
Posted (edited)

I've been looking in to this and I've decided I'm going to run with something like this...

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-830051/?rtype=10

With the rod running across the strut tower and poking out just behind the bonnet at the base of the windscreen. There will be ones that also disconnect the alternator (the one above doesn't).

Edited by bubba
sav man Grand Master

sav man

Posted
Posted

I've got a Hella isolation switch in the car, and i just use a pull cord for external access.

I've also used a Soleniod with a switch on the outside, but the soleniod needs power to keep the power going to the car. So If you leave it parked without turning the switch off, you'll have a flat battery in a couple of days.

Duncan Grand Master

Duncan

Posted
Posted

mine's exactly the same as Ben's. I use a NO relay, and if you leave it on it drains the battery. It is mounted at the cigarette lighter in easy rach ofhe driver and has a pull cord to the base of the a piller for external access.

the relay cuts the power from the battery to everything except the starter and alternator. because no ecu power causes the car to stall, not isolating the alternator is fine.

No.96 Community Regular

No.96

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Thanks fellows,

After reading your responses I thought I'd re read the cams requirements regarding the driver activated switch.

Each automobile of the 2nd and 3rd Category shall be equipped with a battery isolation (master) switch which

isolates the battery and stops the engine. It shall be capable of being operated by the driver in his normal

seated position. There must be a second switch, or a remote means of operating the main switch, from the

vicinity of the base of the A pillar on the driver’s side or, for an automobile with no A pillar, in a comparable

position. This external device shall be clearly marked by a symbol showing a red spark in a white-edged blue

triangle of minimum edge length 150mm.

I thought the driver seated switch was the igition (key) and you had a main isolator (Master Switch)located near the battery with a cable to operate that mounted near the A pillar.

Does this mean to comply 100% you have to run the main battery cable into the cabin to a master switch near the driver?

Any thoughts?

BezerkR32 Veteran

BezerkR32

Posted
Posted

YES MATE, YOU WILL HAVE TO RUN THE CABLE TO THE SWITCH WHERE THE DRIVER CAN ACCESS IT, AND REMOTE IT VIA CABLE OUTSIDE.

Thanks fellows,

After reading your responses I thought I'd re read the cams requirements regarding the driver activated switch.

Each automobile of the 2nd and 3rd Category shall be equipped with a battery isolation (master) switch which

isolates the battery and stops the engine. It shall be capable of being operated by the driver in his normal

seated position. There must be a second switch, or a remote means of operating the main switch, from the

vicinity of the base of the A pillar on the driver’s side or, for an automobile with no A pillar, in a comparable

position. This external device shall be clearly marked by a symbol showing a red spark in a white-edged blue

triangle of minimum edge length 150mm.

I thought the driver seated switch was the igition (key) and you had a main isolator (Master Switch)located near the battery with a cable to operate that mounted near the A pillar.

Does this mean to comply 100% you have to run the main battery cable into the cabin to a master switch near the driver?

Any thoughts?

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