Jump to content
SAU Community

Alarm Install S2 Rs Stagea

sickm8

By sickm8,
in Four Door Family & Wagoneers

 Share

Recommended Posts

QWK32 Veteran

QWK32

Posted
Posted (edited)

central locking cant be taken off the circuit board in the control box that chef_stagea mentioned, no need to unplug it or cut any wires off it though. everything else is pritty easy to find, lock/unlock indication tap into the hazard switch, figure out your immobilisation points, etc.

when i rang justcar they said that it was fine for me to do the install as long as the alarm met the australian standards. e.g 3 point immobiliser, black wiring.

Edited by QWK32
QWK32 Veteran

QWK32

Posted
Posted

Sorry i made a typo, i meant to say it "can" be taken from the control box on the passenger side.

I havent done the job recently but do remeber what to do, it is a negative trigger off the C/B. I'll forward you a pm i did up for another user on where the points are.

  • 5 months later...
XRATED Veteran

XRATED

Posted
Posted

Sorry i made a typo, i meant to say it "can" be taken from the control box on the passenger side.

I havent done the job recently but do remeber what to do, it is a negative trigger off the C/B. I'll forward you a pm i did up for another user on where the points are.

Could you pm me the same info?

Cheers

Justin

pipster11 Grand Master

pipster11

Posted
Posted

central locking cant be taken off the circuit board in the control box that chef_stagea mentioned, no need to unplug it or cut any wires off it though. everything else is pritty easy to find, lock/unlock indication tap into the hazard switch, figure out your immobilisation points, etc.

when i rang justcar they said that it was fine for me to do the install as long as the alarm met the australian standards. e.g 3 point immobiliser, black wiring.

just car said mine had to be professionally installed

  • 2 weeks later...
Oppression Apprentice

Oppression

Posted
Posted

I have the white box on the passenger side, earthing out the purple/grey wires locks and unlocks all the doors except the drivers side, I can hear a relay click from the control unit on the drivers side but no effect on the lock itself=(

Is this common, does anyone know what my issue is??

Thanks

QWK32 Veteran

QWK32

Posted
Posted

yep, thats common. and you will sit there scratching your head for hours trying to figure out why the drivers side door wont lock, i know, i wasted half a day trying to figure the door locking system out. basically the white box on the passenger side is the receiver for the keyless entry, two internal relays (lock and unlock) signal the drivers side door to lock / unlock and also trigger those same functions on the white box on the drivers side. the box on the drivers side is the central locking box, as well as doing a couple other things like dome light supervision etc.

there is a difference between central locking and keyless entry. the stagea's central locking looks for a signal from the drivers side door i.e turning a key, and then actuates the other doors. keyless entry will operate all the doors. the wires your grounding are most certainly the central locking signal wires to the drivers side box to lock / unlock all the other doors. you need to tap into the keyless entry trigger points, and that is all done internally in the passenger side box, which means soldering to a circuit board to switch the lock and unlock relays mounted on this board.

have a look at the attached PDF, its a little write up i did a while ago when i installed mine.

Stagea Door Lock Relays.pdf

  • Like 1
Chris Rogers Grand Master

Chris Rogers

Posted
Posted

same as a R34. the remote side of it is an after thought. two separate systems at play there. they did the same thing with the R32 GTR and the dealer fitted alarms in them.

  • 5 years later...
Cowboy1600 Grand Master

Cowboy1600

Posted
Posted
On 13/08/2010 at 1:51 AM, GoldZilla said:

Check with your insurance company before you start fiddling too, some insurers won't pay up if your car is stolen and the alarm wasn't professionally installed.

How would they know?

Cowboy1600 Grand Master

Cowboy1600

Posted
Posted
8 hours ago, KiwiRS4T said:

They would ask you for the evidence (invoice/receipt)

Doubtful. What if my mate, an electrical engineer, installed it for free for me? They going to ask to see his degree?

What if he's dead?

  • Like 1
  • Haha 1
  • 1 year later...
etang789 Community Regular

etang789

Posted
Posted
On 1/29/2011 at 7:25 AM, QWK32 said:

yep, thats common. and you will sit there scratching your head for hours trying to figure out why the drivers side door wont lock, i know, i wasted half a day trying to figure the door locking system out. basically the white box on the passenger side is the receiver for the keyless entry, two internal relays (lock and unlock) signal the drivers side door to lock / unlock and also trigger those same functions on the white box on the drivers side. the box on the drivers side is the central locking box, as well as doing a couple other things like dome light supervision etc.

there is a difference between central locking and keyless entry. the stagea's central locking looks for a signal from the drivers side door i.e turning a key, and then actuates the other doors. keyless entry will operate all the doors. the wires your grounding are most certainly the central locking signal wires to the drivers side box to lock / unlock all the other doors. you need to tap into the keyless entry trigger points, and that is all done internally in the passenger side box, which means soldering to a circuit board to switch the lock and unlock relays mounted on this board.

have a look at the attached PDF, its a little write up i did a while ago when i installed mine.

Stagea Door Lock Relays.pdf

Thanks this is super helpful! Seems like I am on the right track!

IMG_0803.JPG

IMG_0801.JPG

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • AdiR34
      R-chassis INNER tie rod torque spec?

      By AdiR34 · Posted

      I'm seeing torque specs all over the place for the OUTER tie rod, but none for the INNER tie rod, where it connects to the steering rack. Even in videos, people are just tightening em up as much as they can with a wrench and that's it. Anything tightened down without torque makes me nervous. Anyone know what the spec is for it?
    • Curlyfred
      Hiya!

      By Curlyfred · Posted

      Hope you had a great time here in our tiny country.   The JDM scene we have here is quite small, it's mostly BMW, Volkswagen with burble tunes haha. But the few JDM cars we do have in the scene are pretty nice. Some of my friends drive cool s14's too. Both built engines, red one makes abt 500, blue one abt 400 i think?
    • Nizzy_R34
      r34's love to squeal

      By Nizzy_R34 · Posted

      Ye good idea , would have never thought of something like that. Might aswell do it to every pulley and the balancer while I’m there 
    • GTSBoy
      r34's love to squeal

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Use an LS1 or similar, via kit like Frenchy's. But.... It's probably not the alternator. It sounds like belt squeal, which would be because the pulleys are glazed. Rub every groove on the pulleys with 120 grit paper. Report back. Oh, and new belts afterwards too. The old new ones will be shitted up already.
    • Nizzy_R34
      r34's love to squeal

      By Nizzy_R34 · Posted

      Hello all I have 2 r34 sedans , one turbo one na, only recently aquired the na 34.  Man what is with these things.... My turbo 34 started sounding like a super charger, it was screaming at anything above 4000rpm , I took the alternator apart and replaced the front bearing which is the only one I think you can access and it did not fix the issue so presumably the bearing in the rear of the alternator is gone. ( diagnosed it was the alternator by taking off the aux belts one by one to figure out which pulley or bearing it was )  My friend gave me one he had lying around, Installed it , it did not squeal for maybe 500kms and now its started to squeal again briefly on startup  Recently got an na r34 and I replaced the timing belt, water pump + all the auxillirary belts. Runs amazing but it suddenly developed the same squeaking problem but significantly worse, Ive had my neighbour come down screaming at me because it was waking her up everytime I moved the car. It takes a good 2 minutes before it quietens down.  Im yet to diagnose where its coming from but im fairly sure its coming from the alternator aswell. My question isnt about how to fix it but rather where can you get a new alternator for an rb25 neo??? Ive searched everywhere but I havent been able to find a direct fit oem type replacement thats not genuine. All the automotive stores sell an oex one - BXA035 - which I picked up for cheap through a friend with staff discount , got it home only to find the connector is completelty different.... As far as im aware bxa035 is for rb20/30's and after a bit of figuring out the bxa035 has an ev14 type connector, which is tiny compared to the rb25 connector. I actually had an ev14 connector lying around which I was considering just replacing the bigger plug with to get the alternator working but the bxa035 is rated for 70amp vs the rb25 alternators are 90amp ( or so ive been told ? ) That paired along with the fact im about to install an amp + sub in the back and I have the stock sized small battery Im not sure itll do the job unless anyone has another opinion?  I know and have seen all the websites selling the ls1 alternator conversion kit but I am not going down that route, nor do I have the money to. Hopefully I can figure out how to get 2 brand new alternators for both cars. I would buy second hand which there seems to be many of but considering how common this seems to be im sure If I installed a second hand one it would start squealing in no time  Or even better if anyone knows how to fix the issue directly with the alternator itself... Any input appreciated Thank you     Link for bxa035 connector picture
×
×
  • Create New...