Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I'm planning for a new engine as I have no Idea how reliable the VQ25det engine will be at the current power level. I would love to lean on it some more, but I need a built engine to replace it if and when it dies.

The choices I have are to either stroke the 2.5 Teps style or try and find a suitable 3.5 block to build and take some abuse. I guess the 2.5 would be easier to engineer or pass at Vicroads? Short stroke and larger piston appeal to me, 3L perhaps?

I'm sure you have all seen the 3.5 rod/piston sets on Ebay in the states, some of which are good for 250hp a rod apparently, this seems like the cheapest option and as I plan to do most of the work myself it could work out to be a fairly cheap upgrade. The block being taller shouldn't cause too many headaches as I can make a new plenum and I would need a new fuel set up anyway I guess.

The planned engine will be high compression, say 10.5 - 11:1 and run good boost levels still as it will be E85 dedicated. Not sure what single turbo would suit either combination, possibly GT35?

That should get the boat moving. :P

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/332341-m35-engine-upgrade/
Share on other sites

I think you should go for a Vq30Det and swap the intake over from the VQ25 so it goes to the drivers side. A 3L motor should have a lot of extra roque over the 2.5 and the 3L is already built to take turbo from the factory and there is plenty of aftermarket support. A few people are getting good power out of the VQ30 without issue thus far. I know on paper the VQ30 doesn't look as good but that is probably ecu related or cams but it's essentially the same motor. Plus, VQ30's are pretty cheap. I would hazard a guess that the 3L could be run on your existing ecu as well especially with the emanage. I know you can run a 2jzgte on a 1jzgte ecu and sensors and it 'learns' the fuel map for the bigger injectors (370cc versus 440cc). Personally I would always go for the factory turbo motor as it's been built to run boost.

Don't bother swapping the engine mate, you have heard it from me before and I will say it again, stroke the VQ25 using the TEPS 3.6L kit and then up the compression :(

Will be an easier and quicker build than a VQ35 and probably more reliable too.

VQ30det? Nah, stick with the 2.5L "treasured" engine.

EDIT: on second thoughts, you could always buy a cheap, used VQ35de and sell the VQ25 to a certain local who wants to stroke it to 3.6L ;) .... Yeah, definitely go the VQ35 lol

Also, check your inbox for a couple of options if you want to go the VQ35 :P

Edited by iamhe77

What does it matter if the VQ30 is older? If the motor is in good condition then it shouldn't matter and you could possibly build a hybrid 25/30 if the VQ25 heads were better and those heads on a VQ30 bottom end may give you the compression you're after. A built motor is going to cost a bit with machining, parts etc and then what gearbox behind it? I don't think Scott needs to throw big dollars at an engine that will suit his power goal. A GT35 on a 3L will be plenty I would think and it's been done before a couple of times in WA with success. It's always nice to have something unique but that always comes at a cost. I think you would be asking a lot of an untried combination with a high compression, big turbo build. If you have deep pockets, go for it but I would go for the tried and tested option personally, but hey I like things to be as easy and bolt on as possible where I can get away with it.

Couldn't agree more (cost effective & as close to bolt on as possible)

Which is why I am working on getting as much info on this 3.6L stroker kit (also raises compression slightly)

VQ25 head on a VQ30? Nice thought (sort like an RB30det), but bolt on?

VQ30det - Bore = 93mm, Stroke 73.3mm

VQ25det - Bore = 85mm, Stroke = 73.3mm

Edited by iamhe77

Fair point I didn't check the bore on the 2 engines and thought thextra cc was from stroke rather than bore. Anyway, I guess I'm just thinking along the lines of what I would do if I was in Scott's position. $2k for a front cut, keep what he wants and sell of the rest to reduce the cost and it would be more of a bolt in proposition. Hopefully Scott will chime in with what he wants to do here and I'm guessing his mind is somewhat made up? I'm excited for him whatever he chooses but I know cost wise for myself I would go the way I have mentioned but I don't want heaps of power either, in my experience too much power and everything breaks, the car's off the road always fixing something.

Well the Kewish built box should be good for 600whp according to the research I have done. It all depends whether I leave the standard ecu in place to control the throttle. The rest of the drive train should be fine I hope.

I want a built motor mainly for its long life. There is a chance these stock motors could handle the power but for how long? This is going to be an every day driver so strength and reliability is high on the list.

The 3.5 is taking the easy way out to some extent, it will make the power easier, allow higher compression and cheaper build parts. I dont even know if I can get pistons and rods for the 2.5 let alone the 3L. For the 3.5 they are available in so many options, like a lolly shop.

Cam, this engine will stay in the shed as backup I think.

I'm pretty sure OkBanana in his build said there was a heap of aftermarket support for the VQ30 in the USA. Anyway, it sounds like your mind is made up so let us know how you go.

Far from made up, if there is huge aftermarket support why cant I find many parts? I will have to search some more.

VQ30, being an older engine, the sensors may not work with the M35 ecu. Im leaning toward using the stock block for that reason.

Far from made up, if there is huge aftermarket support why cant I find many parts? I will have to search some more.

VQ30, being an older engine, the sensors may not work with the M35 ecu. Im leaning toward using the stock block for that reason.

lol, try Googling "VQ30det performance parts". You should find some decent items including your beloved Pauter rods :P

Whats the bore and stroke on a v35 engine?

Bore = 95.5 mm

Stroke = 81.4 mm

Edited by iamhe77
lol, try Googling "VQ30det performance parts". You should find some decent items including your beloved Pauter rods :P

Bore = 95.5 mm

Stroke = 81.4 mm

Pauter make some damn fine rods, i have some in my Gtr.

cheers for that. using a 35 crank in the 25 block etc would that work? i did discuss this with my engine builder when i first took the car there to drop off the rb parts.

Pauter make some damn fine rods, i have some in my Gtr.

cheers for that. using a 35 crank in the 25 block etc would that work? i did discuss this with my engine builder when i first took the car there to drop off the rb parts.

It would appear so

VQ35 cam, crank & rods in the VQ25det... among others

Edited by iamhe77

That is the benefit of going to the 95.5mm bore, the pistons are the same as 350z. I cant find a cheap VQ30det block but I have found a VQ35 cheap that needs a rebuild.

Those prices seem very reasonable. I could perhaps get away with a 5 grand build...

Yeah i have delt with them before too, they are quiet good.

was the cheapest place on the web i could find for Mahle pistons/Pauter rods.

Where are those parts from? Like I said, I want to over engineer the block. It would be good if I could build something to easily handle 500wkw but run less boost (most of the time). This engine probably wont stay in this car forever. I would love to slide it into an s15 or something one day. :P

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • What an awesome idea to fit the facelift Lamborghini Diablo headlights. They are a perfect fit!
    • An update regarding the registration with the DVLA I sent off the paperwork the day after I collected the car from the port, two weeks later it was all returned with a letter explaining they have rejected the application. This was because the cheque was £20 short for the road tax (I used a price list I found online). Nevermind it is what it is, it was sent back to them the following day with a new cheque. Fast forward another 2 weeks or so, I called them for an update to be told it had been rejected. Yesterday (16th September) I received the documents back along with another letter, this time it was because I didn't put an X in one box on the V750 (personalised number plate certificate), which declared that I had the rights to the personalised number plate. Why this wasn't mentioned in the first rejection letter, I don't know, but it could have saved this headache. The documents were sent back today, so fingers crossed third times a charm and it'll FINALLY be registered on the road just in time for the bad weather (woohoo!) To cheer myself up I lowered the front 25mm, was sick of seeing it sit like a monster truck. No idea how much clearance I'll have getting on and off the driveway, I'll worry about that when I can actually drive it
    • You're going to miss not worrying about rust in the strut towers like the Skyline shitboxes out there
    • A few little updates that weren't filmed due to not taking long to do or not interesting enough for their own video. My new K&N Air Filter arrived, I went with an RU-4180 which matched the dimensions of the universal cone filter the car originally had.  The battery had gone flat, while that was charging I tidied up the spaghetti wiring at the bulk head and down the sides of the engine Next job was to swap the stereo The Kenwood harness had the female ISO plugs cut off and the male ISO plugs cut off the adaptor loom and joined with bullet connectors. I ordered in a repair loom through work and re-did it all. New Kenwood unit installed (Android Auto, DAB, Bluetooth, Reverse Camera) The bonnet/hood gas struts have been poor since collecting the car. I couldn't find any suitable replacements locally so took a chance on a pair from AliExpress.  The originals don't use a retaining clip to secure the cup onto the ball fixture, would explain why I struggled for 10-15mins trying to pry off the cups. The ball fixtures unscrew using a 12mm spanner, new ones are the same size. Sadly no photo of them fitted, you're not missing much lol The dished Momo steering wheel got replaced with my Momo Tuner, turns out I ordered counter sunk bolts for the horn trim ring (like they normally are for the steering wheel) instead of allen cap (flat seat)  A terrible photo of a Quaife style gear shift knob I've had stashed in my tool box for many years after purchasing the incorrect thread size (I can see a pattern emerging with ordering incorrect parts...) Also threw in a cup holder and a (empty) Boss Coffee can, because why not  
    • GT-R clearly the better choice! The 300 is certainly not insaly fast but has a decent amount of poke. Does a nice little drift around the corners with a decent amount of throttle. It's VERY predictable in a slide too.  Feels so progressive! People probably presume there's a 25 year old driving it based on my behaviour this week! 🤣
×
×
  • Create New...