Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hello everybody my name is kenny and im new here on the site. i live in sweden and is also a member in the swedish version.

Anyway i just have som questions about the apexi safc (ive been searching and looking at all kinds of threads but havent got a real good answer yet)

I bought myself a z32 afm and im going to install it this weekend and wondering about if theres any setting on the safc, when i look at the manual from apexi website i see that there is a setting just for z32 afm (hotwire 4), so will the z32 afm work on my car if i change the sensor settings on the safc?

The other question is what AFR is the best? the car is a skyline r33 Gtst, im going to trie to tune it on the road we have long and good roads here in sweden :blink: i have already bought a aem wideband so i can check so nothing goes wrong!

Offtopic here: i must say that after all my looking around in the forum, you guys are really good at answering peoples questions! thats why i became a member here! well i hope some of you guys have some good answers for me :D

(excuse the english, as said before im from sweden :thumbsup: )

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/333689-tune-apexi-safc-with-z32-afm/
Share on other sites

if your making enough power to warrant a Z32 you really should get a standalone ECU

the SAFC really is a basic piggyback patchjob and youll find much more gains and a better overall from a stand alone

have you looked into a stand alone like a powerfc or a remap (nistune) or another stand alone ecu?

for full load your AF/R should be 12 to 12.5 and for light cruise you can go as lean as 15.0 to get some good economy

if your making enough power to warrant a Z32 you really should get a standalone ECU

the SAFC really is a basic piggyback patchjob and youll find much more gains and a better overall from a stand alone

have you looked into a stand alone like a powerfc or a remap (nistune) or another stand alone ecu?

for full load your AF/R should be 12 to 12.5 and for light cruise you can go as lean as 15.0 to get some good economy

I aint making enough power :thumbsup: i just got the Z32 for a good price so why not fit it was my thought :blink:

I have looked into stand alone ecu but the SAFC was in the car when i bought it so i was thinking that i maybe could use that one for now, and then maybe later if more mods would come buy a stand alone one!

My mods are just:

Fmic

3" exhaust with no cat

Apexi air filter

Boost at 0.8 bar (dont know what that is in psi)

Apexi safc (not tuned)

Z32 afm

I aint making enough power :thumbsup: i just got the Z32 for a good price so why not fit it was my thought :blink:

There is no point.

There is zero benefit to fitting it for the mods you have.

It will not give you anything other than a bill for a retune

Sell it, and keep the status quo

There is no point.

There is zero benefit to fitting it for the mods you have.

It will not give you anything other than a bill for a retune

Sell it, and keep the status quo

okey zero benefit :thumbsup: but is there any bad things from installing it? :blink:

There appears to be some posts missing on this

Think you asked when the switch over for hi and low throttle was

hi 50%

low 35%

this is for a 8 point adjustment

ne points come in at 1.5%

ne 1 is 2.5%

ne 2 is 4.5%

need any more help

There appears to be some posts missing on this

Think you asked when the switch over for hi and low throttle was

hi 50%

low 35%

this is for a 8 point adjustment

ne points come in at 1.5%

ne 1 is 2.5%

ne 2 is 4.5%

need any more help

Thank you very much, i dont want to start a new thread so i will hope for an answer here for this one!

im about to mount the aem wideband sensor and is looking around on the downpipe where to put it? do i have to take down the downpipe from the car or what is the easiest way to do it? need help really fast! :D

From my understanding and what I have read is that to use a z32 afm with safc / safc2 you have to play with the in out numbers. In representing the number for the z32 afm and out being the number that represents the r33 gts25t ecu etc if you get the drift. Am not 100% sure so please feel free to correct me if I am wrong.

From what I have read on these forums its seems there is no reason to go to a z32 afm unless you are making 230rwkw or more.

One last thing

What should the ne points be set as? there are 8 ne points on the safc 1 right?

You can have a 16 point correction map or at least you can with a neo

This would be a good start below as what your trying to sort out occurs around 4 to 5 k

ne 1 1000

ne 2 2000

ne 3 3000

ne 4 4000

ne 5 5000

ne 6 5500

ne 7 6000

ne 8 7000

depending on mods and this is a complete stab in the dark you might be looking at around an average -5% or -6% on hi throttle throughout the rev range with no change until 6 and 7 k of about -7% on low throttle

but like i said its a stab in the dark and nothing more but would be interested to see how close it is

Edited by jjskyline79
You can have a 16 point correction map or at least you can with a neo

This would be a good start below as what your trying to sort out occurs around 4 to 5 k

ne 1 1000

ne 2 2000

ne 3 3000

ne 4 4000

ne 5 5000

ne 6 5500

ne 7 6000

ne 8 7000

depending on mods and this is a complete stab in the dark you might be looking at around an average -5% or -6% on hi throttle throughout the rev range with no change until 6 and 7 k of about -7% on low throttle

but like i said its a stab in the dark and nothing more but would be interested to see how close it is

thanks man i will try that, and as soon as i have got it leaned out i will type down how many % i had to lean and at what rpm, just for fun ;) i know you cant just tune any car after another but it could be fun to see how much i have to lean out to get the right AFR

"Flat spot" may also be standard feature of ecu. You may be able to improve things a little with safc but probaly need chipped or replacement ecu to fix it.

there arent any chip to the rb25det right? and you might be right and if the safc cant fix i will have to try something else :touch:

Yes Nistune is not available for the S1 and S2 (non neo) RB25 ecu but if you have a manual you can fit an R32 or other ecu and Nistune that. There is a lttle stuffing around invoved and you need to get some system for switching the vct. Better still is a new Link ecu or if that's too expensive maybe an Apexi PFC if you can find the correct model at the right price. The SAFC will be better than nothing but forget the Z32afm for now. If you decide to get a Link later you won't need an AFM at all.

Link website: http://www.linkecu.com/

Swedish Dealers: http://www.motornord.se/system/webshop.asp...3&HSID=3054

Motor Nord AB

Bjorneborgsgatan 49,

PO Box 708 85131,

Sundsvall.

Tel: +46 60-157 400

Fax: +46 60-157 405

Yes Nistune is not available for the S1 and S2 (non neo) RB25 ecu but if you have a manual you can fit an R32 or other ecu and Nistune that. There is a lttle stuffing around invoved and you need to get some system for switching the vct. Better still is a new Link ecu or if that's too expensive maybe an Apexi PFC if you can find the correct model at the right price. The SAFC will be better than nothing but forget the Z32afm for now. If you decide to get a Link later you won't need an AFM at all.

Link website: http://www.linkecu.com/

Swedish Dealers: http://www.motornord.se/system/webshop.asp...3&HSID=3054

Motor Nord AB

Bjorneborgsgatan 49,

PO Box 708 85131,

Sundsvall.

Tel: +46 60-157 400

Fax: +46 60-157 405

I was under the impressions that you can use a z32 ecu with the r33 skylines to retain vvt. Just needs some minor rewiring. If you go on the nistune website im sure they mention their soloutions there for the r33 skyline.

Cheers

i would just hold onto the z32 afm for now until you have a proper set up that can fully utilize it.

i have the same set up as you pretty much,,

-a pod but just switched back to panel and airbox.

-split dump and 3inch exhaust all the way.

-10 psi actuator but running closer to 14psi.

-safc neo with zeitronix wideband.

install the afc and wideband and take a crack and road tuning. you will notice a difforence.

crappy thing is you can adust fuel all the want but you cant adjust timing so you wont be able to make it perfect which is why the pfc or nistune ect is used. but go nuts,, have fun,, learn and be careful. dont let it go too lean !

throw down here what you ended up using for the rpm settings and ill stick mine down just for curiosity sake.

if u find your still having a bad flat spot make sure you check the condition if your fuel pump, coilpacks and sparkpugs.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ah. OK. I take it back. I hadn't looked closely at the R33/4 arms and presumed that GKTech did as GKTech do everywhere else, which is to use sphericals there. The poly bushings are made to be 100% interchangeable, should use the standard bolt just fine. Every other bush in every other place in pretty much every other car, does.
    • @silviaz Ok cool, so much easier with a video. I can see why this video would be confusing for new players.   It is obvious that this entire bonnet is going to be resprayed, have a look in the background around 2:05, you can see a bunch of bare metal on the left side of the bonnet.  It's not an issue for the primer being laid down on the non-prepped clear on the bonnet. It will be sanded off at a later stage.  This might not be obvious to new players, but working on bare metal and factory paint in this instance, the factory paint is like a mountain and the bare metal is a huge valley. The bonnet needs to be levelled flat before it receives it's final stage of colour and clear coat. During this levelling process, the primer that is landing on the clear that you are worried about will be removed.  Also, this guy is out of control. Zero PPE while spraying, maybe he is a good example overall about what not to do lol.
    • Ok I FINALLY found a video lol. This took way longer than it should have as I could have sworn I saw multiple videos like this. I kept finding the completely opposite (the correct way of doing this). I wouldn't be surprised if I f**ked this up somehow.  I just realised where I've been getting confused and even with other things I work on. I haven't been doing things the regular way instead I'm going a roundabout way of doing things, like putting epoxy primer first then filler for example instead of putting just filler then primer on top of that, then wondering what happens if I get that primer on the clear coat that I haven't sanded yet. This was a bit of an epiphany 😂  But anyways, here this video. Time stamp, 2:56, some of the primer lands on the paint unscuffed above. You can see from the reflection it looks shiny.  
    • It does, this part circled in red. I assume the OEM bolt might not work well with the poly bushing because the dimensions may be different?
    • The J arm doesn't have bushes either. Assuming that by "J arm" you mean the part of the upright that runs down from the upper arm's outer bushes to the top of the hub. That has a kingpin style bearing in it. If you meant the lower control arm, it has 1 bush, at its inner end. If you have PU in there, that is superior to Nismo rubber. If you meant the caster/tension rod - it has 1x bush at the front end, and again PU is superior to Nismo rubber. But as I said above, I would definitely get the GKTech arms for that, as sphericals slay all other options there.
×
×
  • Create New...