Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

First of all just wanted to say I have done a search but couldn't find anything on how to do this in an R34, don't know how similar they are to R32/R33's...

I just wanted to find out how hard it is to install a Walbro 550hp intank fuel pump in an R34? And how to go about it? I was meant to be getting it installed by a workshop here in Perth when they serviced it today, but when I got there they told me that my fuel tank needs to be empty to do it so they can't do it today, I would need to bring it back. I am seriously over their bullshit so I don't want to take it back there, which is why I wanted to find out how to do this myself?

I have read that you need to rewire aftermarket fuel pumps in order for them to work properly, is this accurate?

Thanks in advance for any help,

Martin.

  • Replies 41
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

  Hanaldo said:
So does nobody know, or is this just such a stupid question that everyone is ignoring me? :D

When the workshop installed my walbro fuel pump a few weeks back they did I with fuel in my tank :(

its so mucch easier and less messy with less fuel in the tank.. it doesnt need to be empty it just needs to be low.. say 1/4 tank.

DIY... its quite easy.

remove the cap, unplug the wires and fuel lines. mark them so you know where they go back on. remove the pump assy.

put it on a bench and basically copy the location and sock height in relation to the cradle with the new pump.

take ya time and use quality fittings and wiring and you cant go wrong

you will need to solder on the plug that comes with the walbro.. cut the terminals off the stock pump and solder on the wire for plug... use heatshrink as elect tape will come off in the fuel.

by fittings i mean hose clamps and fuel hose should you choose to replace them.. i would. get some fuel proof hose and run new length from the top cap to the pump with efi hose clamps either end.

Awesome, too easy :blush: where can I get some good quality fuel hose from?

So I don't need to rewire the pump to give it a more direct voltage like you do with the bosche 040's and 044's?

You do need to rewire the pump - factory wiring is not acceptable half the time. Sometimes its ok, rarely though.

Just read the FI guide and apply the same stuff as the Bosch install, wiring part is the same for all intents and purposes

Shouldnt take long at all, 45mins if you fart around as a first timer would easily have it done :wub:

Given it's winter, emptier tank wont matter otherwise id do it with a full tank personally.

Far less fumes that way, not that anyone would be playing with a ciggie around a fuel tank...

Total bullshit about the tank needing to be empty, whatever workshop said that is retarded IMO.

I've done two pumps, both full tanks. Just remove the pump slowly and there is no mess to speak of really... Just dont drop anything in there :blush:

dont think R34's have variable pump voltage like the 32's do. Someone can correct me on this but if thats the case i would just leave it as it is.

as for fuel hose... most parts shops should have it.. ask for fuel proof EFI hose in 8mm ID

  Simon-R32 said:
dont think R34's have variable pump voltage like the 32's do. Someone can correct me on this but if thats the case i would just leave it as it is.

as for fuel hose... most parts shops should have it.. ask for fuel proof EFI hose in 8mm ID

Correct, the hose needs to be coated on the outside or it will expand like a balloon causing it to fail. There is proper in tank efi hose but it is $40 a meter, Autobarn could source it but is there a cheaper option?

When I replaced my pump with a walbro it did not give the full pressure, I had to rewire using the stock wires as the feed for the relay and after that was done my walbro would sing as the voltage was was where ti should be. My fuel pressure was spot on after that. Before that my pressure was around 20psi so I am sure there is some sort of varying voltage causing this.

  • 2 weeks later...

Ok well I haven't been on the forums in a while, but I got this installed really easily. Only problem I had was my logic for soldering the new harness onto the wiring was wrong and it swapped the polarities, so initially the pump was sucking instead of pumping :) But I swapped the wires and sorted that out.

Now I just wanted to ask why you need to rewire the pump. The guides I have found don't answer the question, they only tell you how to do it. I have left the stock wiring as is for now because I don't understand why you would need to rewire. Can someone elaborate?

Yeah, but Martin's question is, how does one re-wire the pump to provide moar power?

i.e. 'rewiring' could just mean replacing the wires that feed the current to the pump, or changing the voltage source to a constant 12v, using a voltage amplifier, adding resistors etc...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • sold listed as a Tomei LSD 1.5 Way For 1998+ Nissan Skyline ER34 25GT RB25DE w/Open R200 https://www.ebay.com/itm/174006114594?campid=5338967980&mkevt=1&mkcid=1&toolid=10050&customid=&mkrid=711-53200-19255-0&loc_physical_ms=108689&loc_interest_ms=&campid=5338967980&mkevt=1&mkcid=1&toolid=10050&customid=71883f2ccc571356e0a757bc7adfdde2&mkrid=710-53481-19255-0&loc_physical_ms=108689&loc_interest_ms= it went in like butter all gears, alignment, back lash etc, rotation and clearances correct, and if rolling all rotates smooth and free when coasting down road , clutch in or out over 10 mph smooth... its the binding, clunking and jerking from a stop that is most concerning, also seems like its going to tear the tires off in 10 miles of normal road driving. 
    • What 1.5 way? There's no such thing really as a 1.5 way, just different ways of explaining 2 ways with different ramp rates. HOWEVER. In any driving in a straight line your 1.5 or 2 or 1.7 way should have no clunking at all. With the clutch fully depressed the diff should be silent (unless it's welded but I'm assuming it's not). Something aint right here.
    • Clutch is a spec brand, new clutch system,( PP, flywheel, friction disc, etc. pull type) installed 100 miles ago, with no problems.
    • looking for some help and maybe some insight on others experience with a new LSD. R34 GT ran and drove beautifully, but always alot of grip loss due to the open R200 rear end, so I just installed a new 1.5 LSD way into the stock open R200 for a ER34. Simple. Everything seemed right. I test drove for the first time this weekend. as I started to back out the garage the first time slowly with tires straight it sounded and felt like I had a loose or half disconnected drive shaft...that was clucking around loose and shaking entire vehicle, and making it feel like the trans clutch was spontaneously slipping then grabbing very roughly while just letting out pedal slowly. I backed it out went to pull forward with the same noise, shake and slip grab feeling with hesitation, I turned the tires to back out more and then pulled ahead some same thing but worst because of added wheel resistance (which that I expected) puzzled … pulling it back in checking everything over and finding nothing wrong, I tried it the next day. same thing, couldn’t believe how it shook everything again making a terrible noise and making it feel like the trans clutch was slipping and grabbing, but I got it out of garage into the driveway, got it straight, drove forward and then reveres a few times in a straight line everything shaking , causing what felt like clutch slip and grab every time, sounded like right behind front driver tire and I could feel it in the floor board with my feet,... worst right when beginning to let clutch pedal out to engage slightly, shuttering and sounding terrible along the way…I managed to slowly get down the road, babying it the whole way, once I was rolling (out of 1st) seemed to be better and between shifts, then clutch felt closer to normal…not slip/ grab etc., but back down to any stop, straight road or turning, same thing. Made no difference if all tires were straight or if I was turning. All other gauge read out correct. with in 2 miles as planned I reached the empty parking lot and performed the break in procedure that came with lsd, essentially to drive in a figure 8 a bunch.  Did this, binding chattering, and shaking the car the whole way. I drove it back home seemed somewhat normal once I was in straight line and past 10 mph or so, and I know it will “bind” on corners and cause some tires squeal when turning especially from a stop, but when I begin to move it still causes what feels like the trans clutch to slip and jerk badly as well as shaking the entire car, and sounds terrible, that I didn’t expect. I used the fluid they supplied with LSD kit and did the breaking, planning to change fluid as they suggest after breaking, but wondering will it get smoother or less aggressive with use? maybe a 1.5 is just too aggressive for normal road driving?   I have a LSD that I put in my 71 cuda when I restored it, with amazing smooth , quite yet effective results. Different style LSD but that ones a joy to drive. maybe expecting too much from this R200?
    • Join SAU NSW for a flame-grilled feed & flame-spitting cruise! Sunday 17th August 2025 3:30PM Meeting Archies Flame Grille Sylvania Waters 4:45PM Cruise Departure 5:15PM Arrival at Cape Solander Kurnell Meet Location: Archies Flame Grille Final Destination: Cape Solander Kurnell *Disclaimer* There will be a lead and follow car so no one should get lost. If you would like to attend or bring others along please put your name down and a +1 as numbers will be needed prior! This is NOT a race and we will all be adhering to all road rules. If this is what you want please come to one of our many track days. This is an official SAU:NSW event and will be run under a CAMS permit. One of the things that really sets our club apart is our commitment to being true enthusiasts. When on normal roads we strive to maintain good relations with the authorities as well as the public in general. When attending one of Skylines Australia NSW events please try to: • Be aware of surrounding environment and act accordingly. • Drive courteously on the state’s roads as a true enthusiast should. • Understand how important it is to maintain the good name of SAU NSW and thus, treat others accordingly. • Any misbehavior will not be tolerated and you will be asked to leave.
×
×
  • Create New...