Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Im gonna run 10, thats my absolute limit. Im running 6.5 atm, car spools nicely. Its weird having it on boost at around 2200rpm, then thinking, gee this is pulling hard, then that weird ass top end power comes on and your off twice as hard. Great fun

Im gonna run 10, thats my absolute limit. Im running 6.5 atm, car spools nicely. Its weird having it on boost at around 2200rpm, then thinking, gee this is pulling hard, then that weird ass top end power comes on and your off twice as hard. Great fun

Yeah I had the same with my car, it was bizzare...the top-end was impressive

  • 5 weeks later...

For anyone interested in doing this conversion, I made 210rwkw and 475nm on Dr drifts dyno today @ 9psi with stock injectors, stock ecu & stock R31 fuel pump, cooler and high flow t3/4

Edited by juddieR31
666Dan, how much boost was the turbo making from off idle?

I've worked on a few RB25DE's which have had RB20 turbos fitted to them and they were practically making boost when idling. Massive torque down low but runs out of top end very quick... One of those cars now runs a fairly insane turbo/setup (still high C/R for response), makes about 300 rwkw or so, that was done nearly two years ago and its still going, really needs good tuning to keep them together....

hey man, i wanna turbo my r33 rb25de what computer do i run, some ppl say rb20det and some say rb25det, some say the rb20det wont work with the vvt etc and the rb25det is too hard to tune, im confused i can get all rb20det parts real cheap but dont wanna do it unles i know what ecu will plug in and work, can i get away with just a std turbo ecu and tuning and no link or safc etc as im on a tight budget, only want to run stock std boost...

cheers guys

my sugestion is if your on a tight budget then wait until you got the money to do it properly, you never know what might go wrong and end up costing you shit loads to rectify, as for ecu, i would not sugest any standard ecu as it will not be safe to drive, possibly a standard TURBO ecu with a piggy back, but aftermarket is always best, as for r32 ecu it will work but i think something has to be done to it to make it work ie some pins have to change or somethingh and it will need to be re-mapped and you will need an aftermarket cam controller, dr. drift suply and fit r32 re-mapped ecu's with cam controler for around the $1300 including dyno time, or you could spend the extra 500ish for an aftermarket unit tuned,

As these guys have said, if you're not after full tunability, the stock ECU is fine..generaly the tune on it is quite well suited to the higher compression. Stick and SAFC/emanage on it if you want to adjust a bit more.

I have just finished my turbo conversion in the uk and made 310 bhp and 275 lb/ft torque at 9psi would highly recomend this conversion to any one . Thanks for the idear and info 666DAN with out this forum and your info i would still be driving a 200ish bhp A/N and wanting more power . So thanks again :O i have added a pic of what she look like .

post-25857-1172832989.jpg

post-25857-1172833061.jpg

hey mate wat mods do u have in ur car to make that sorta power?

Hi mate i have a 100mm front mount intercooler and hard pipe kit , GReady E01 with Emanage , FSE fuel pressure reg and fuel pump , Gready turbo elbow down pipe cat pipe and 2" N/A nismo exhaust , Apexi oil cooler , HKS and Green induction kit with cold air feed , engine circle earth with voltage stabeliser , uprated blow off valve with about 4 hours on the dyno and in the process of fitting 25 shot of nos and intercooler sprayer which should give about 40bhp on top of the 310

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • There's plenty of OEM steering arms that are bolted on. Not in the same fashion/orientation as that one, to be sure, but still. Examples of what I'm thinking of would use holes like the ones that have the downward facing studs on the GTR uprights (down the bottom end, under the driveshaft opening, near the lower balljoint) and bolt a steering arm on using only 2 bolts that would be somewhat similarly in shear as these you're complainig about. I reckon old Holdens did that, and I've never seen a broken one of those.
    • Let's be honest, most of the people designing parts like the above, aren't engineers. Sometimes they come from disciplines that gives them more qualitative feel for design than quantitive, however, plenty of them have just picked up a license to Fusion and started making things. And that's the honest part about the majority of these guys making parts like that, they don't have huge R&D teams and heaps of time or experience working out the numbers on it. Shit, most smaller teams that do have real engineers still roll with "yeah, it should be okay, and does the job, let's make them and just see"...   The smaller guys like KiwiCNC, aren't the likes of Bosch etc with proper engineering procedures, and oversights, and sign off. As such, it's why they can produce a product to market a lot quicker, but it always comes back to, question it all.   I'm still not a fan of that bolt on piece. Why not just machine it all in one go? With the right design it's possible. The only reason I can see is if they want different heights/length for the tie rod to bolt to. And if they have the cncs themselves,they can easily offer that exact feature, and just machine it all in one go. 
    • The roof is wrapped
    • This is how I last did this when I had a master cylinder fail and introduce air. Bleed before first stage, go oh shit through first stage, bleed at end of first stage, go oh shit through second stage, bleed at end of second stage, go oh shit through third stage, bleed at end of third stage, go oh shit through fourth stage, bleed at lunch, go oh shit through fifth stage, bleed at end of fifth stage, go oh shit through sixth stage....you get the idea. It did come good in the end. My Topdon scan tool can bleed the HY51 and V37, but it doesn't have a consult connector and I don't have an R34 to check that on. I think finding a tool in an Australian workshop other than Nissan that can bleed an R34 will be like rocking horse poo. No way will a generic ODB tool do it.
    • Hmm. Perhaps not the same engineers. The OE Nissan engineers did not forsee a future with spacers pushing the tie rod force application further away from the steering arm and creating that torque. The failures are happening since the advent of those things, and some 30 years after they designed the uprights. So latent casting deficiencies, 30+ yrs of wear and tear, + unexpected usage could quite easily = unforeseen failure. Meanwhile, the engineers who are designing the billet CNC or fabricated uprights are also designing, for the same parts makers, the correction tie rod ends. And they are designing and building these with motorsport (or, at the very least, the meth addled antics of drifters) in mind. So I would hope (in fact, I would expect) that their design work included the offset of that steering force. Doesn't mean that it is not totally valid to ask the question of them, before committing $$.
×
×
  • Create New...