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have you read any of this thread?... you shouldnt need to change the pistons unless you want big power/high boost...

how much of work could you do your self? (i.e. take the engine out, head off etc??) s/h pistons? otherwise how long is a piece of string

Edited by SKiT_R31
have you read any of this thread?... you shouldnt need to change the pistons unless you want big power/high boost...

how much of work could you do your self? (i.e. take the engine out, head off etc??) s/h pistons? otherwise how long is a piece of string

i wont do any work myself, i was just curious about a price, i would like my car legally street registered with a turbo, that means getting the engineers to "okay" the car,

the turbo application on an N/A could you get a wastegate flutter and still keep the engine from blowing, or would you need a blow off?

i wont do any work myself, i was just curious about a price, i would like my car legally street registered with a turbo, that means getting the engineers to "okay" the car,

the turbo application on an N/A could you get a wastegate flutter and still keep the engine from blowing, or would you need a blow off?

It should be fine to get it all engineered, just will have to match the brakes etc to that of the turbo model

compressor surge happens when the TB is shut and has no effect on the engine whatsoever, if you want it to flutter, don't fit a bov and it will flutter, no different to the factory turbo motor.

It should be fine to get it all engineered, just will have to match the brakes etc to that of the turbo model

compressor surge happens when the TB is shut and has no effect on the engine whatsoever, if you want it to flutter, don't fit a bov and it will flutter, no different to the factory turbo motor.

i know about the brakes needing an uprade, what else would need upgrading to make it legal, well legal enough to pass pits? if i ever needed to?

  • 2 weeks later...

A couple of months ago and after 357,000km our old R32 GTS-T ran into engine problems. After failing to find a good low km RB20DET enigne that had a warranty, we decided to make use of the RB20DE engine I had and turbo it. Luckily I came across this awesome thread which helped answer a whole heap of questions. Although there was very little that related to a RB20DE+T we thought we'd go ahead anyway.

Things didn't go quite as we planned and ended up spending a whole lot more than first expected but we are relitivly happy with the results 175rwkw, and there's still room for improvement as we are still using a stock RB20DET ecu, which we are going to upgrde to an after market ecu when funds permit (this should sort out some of the problems we are having).

The list of mods

Rb20DET injectors

turbo smart BOV

RB25DET turbo

3" exhaust from the turbo back

custom 3" dump pipe

stainless exhaust manifold (low mount)

K&N pod filter

450x300x76mm front mount intercooler

Sard fuel pressure regulator

walbro fuel pump

Here's the dyno sheet, the red was taken a couple of years ago when it still had the RB20DET engine. The blue is what the power is now with the RB20DE+T running 9 psi

R32dynoRB20DET1.jpg

excellent Rach...

just to let you know the RB20 ecu is quite tuneable... not sure how you'd go finding someone in NZ though.

some nice results there

p.s. - just a personal pick of mine, but i disapprove of dyno operators printing out road speed as a substitute for rpm. i know you can calculate backwards though :P

that said, i would have expected a little more in the low-mid range (comparing to the rb20det). i think the rb25 turbo might be a little big for the rb20de+t it certainly shows it in the top end though. some tuning should also help immensely. when does full boost occur?

get a chipped rb20 ecu from here

im sure there was a thread in the FI section

nope here it is:

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Rb...l=ecu+group+buy

i would pm CEF11E about it as you seem to be running all the same apart from higher CR and lower boost - which might just 'cancel' each other out

this might solve your problems, and give you nice AFR's

ps - a guy here in WA has this ecu on his rb30det - 25 turbo, 3" turbo back, 25de head, wiseco forgies to around 8:1 CR

makes around 250hp

Things didn't go quite as we planned and ended up spending a whole lot more than first expected but we are relitivly happy with the results 175rwkw, and there's still room for improvement as we are still using a stock RB20DET ecu, which we are going to upgrde to an after market ecu when funds permit (this should sort out some of the problems we are having).

What problems are you having? is it just with the tune? somthing looks way out of whack on that graph, a proper tune should work wonders - does the rb20de have different cams or cam timing to the turbo model? It definately should be spooling earlier, and that graphs all over the show, still though its niice power for only 9psi on a 2L. Is it al the same bolt ons as you had with your 20det?

p.s. - just a personal pick of mine, but i disapprove of dyno operators printing out road speed as a substitute for rpm. i know you can calculate backwards though :D

ditto

Cool Rach, glad to see it worked out for you's.

Now I bet you are thinking of an RB25DE+t!

It is tempting... might be the only way I have a chance of keeping up with you when you get that new engine built for your rally car :) .

What problems are you having? is it just with the tune? somthing looks way out of whack on that graph, a proper tune should work wonders - does the rb20de have different cams or cam timing to the turbo model? It definately should be spooling earlier, and that graphs all over the show, still though its niice power for only 9psi on a 2L. Is it al the same bolt ons as you had with your 20det?

There's no real major problems, it seems to perform ok, I'm basing my statement on the dyno print out, for it to look like it does, there's definately something that needs a bit of attention.

But in saying that we already know a big part of the problem is the 95 octane fuel that was in the tank at the time when it was dyno tuned (It's funny how cars always break down just after you have fulled them up), because we still have the factory ecu we were limited on how the car could be tuned, all the tuning was done with the fuel pressure regulator and retarding the timing, think it's only running around 7-8 degrees of timing, to stop the engine from detonating on the crappy fuel we are having to run the car majorly rich (10.5:1 AFR), we are hoping that this issue can be sorted out with some decent fuel and ecu that can have the fuel and ignition maps tuned to suit

From engine stats I've seen in the past, the RB20DE does have a different inlet cam (232 duration and 7.3mm lift) the RB20DET has a bigger inlet cam (240 duration and 7.8mm lift) but the exhaust cams are the same.

I gota agree with you we expected the turbo to spool up much sooner, every one we had talked to emphasiesed how quickly the turbo would started boosting, we were quite disapointed at first with the lack of response but the top end power is just so much better than it use to be .

The whole set up has completely changed since the first dyno, everything was pretty much stock back then, the only mods it had was the K&N pod filter and a 2 3/4" cat back exhaust system.

Edited by skyla
  • 3 months later...
  • 2 weeks later...
would anyone here have a clue whether or not a power fc made for a gtt would connect up & be fully 100% operationable on a NA+T ?

I believe that MissR34 is running a GT-T PowerFC on her N/A. With that said I would imagine that it would be fine for an NA+T.

The more I read this thread, and the more I read threads on improving power with a N/A, the more I'm convinced to do the bolt on conversion!

I actually like the idea of a responsive GT + T.

I have a few questions though:

Is the Intake Plenum on the N/A model still okay to use with a turbo?

Will a SMIC be adequate? Or just go straight for a FMIC? Considering the GT model doesn't have the vent on the side of the front bar.

I'd like to maintain a sleeper look should I go down this turbo path, so not having a Front Mount that screams out I've got a turbo would be nice.

Finally, what's involved in getting an engineer certificate so that it is road worthy? What cost is involved in that process?

^ all front bar designs for R34 GT/T were the same.

SMIC should be just fine i rekon, as the oen from the R34 GTT is quite thick and efficient.

The R34 GT-T front bar has the side vent like in this photo: http://img498.imageshack.us/img498/4223/37tx.jpg

The GT doesn't. http://www.q8world.net/group/pic/other6/gt/10.jpg

I'm not sure how much impact this has on air getting to the SMIC.

Yeah, I'll see what's available when I'm ready to do the conversion :) I'm thinking I might plan towards doing it mid next year. I just ordered a set of 18s and whiteline camber/castor kit at the moment so time to start saving again.

Is PerFOURmance motorsport still "the" place to go to for the Turbo Conversions?

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