Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 63
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Ahh thanks for that.

Is the blue triangle with the lightning bolt used to show the location of the isolator switch?

And on that, does it matter where I put the switch? Is closer to the battery better?

Edited by ActionDan
Ahh thanks for that.

Is the blue triangle with the lightning bolt used to show the location of the isolator switch?

Yep.

And on that, does it matter where I put the switch? Is closer to the battery better?

Not sure. Mine is quite close, but I didn't do it.

there are sometimes regs about location of isolator switch for certain classes and cars. usually it's base of the a pillar. on the scuttle panel and marked with the blue triangle with lightening bolt.

Almost done,

Wiring is fixed in place under the car, all the terminals have been crimped and wrapped, isolator works fine, voltage from front to rear is good, car cranks well and starts quickly.

Just gotta make a bracket to hold the battery in place now, and fix the cable to the boot floor.

Orientated the isolator so that I can use the elec aerial hole for the remote pull location.

I'm no auto electrician or master mechanic so I'm sure it looks agricultural to some but it works :P

post-23873-1289730380_thumb.jpg

If that isolater does not have a fuseable link built in (doubt it) you may want to put one in pref as close to the battery as possible, pretty sure there was another thread around with some nifty circuit breakers with push button isolaters.

out of curiosity wht kinda voltage drop did you have from the engine bay to the battery?

Almost done,

Wiring is fixed in place under the car, all the terminals have been crimped and wrapped, isolator works fine, voltage from front to rear is good, car cranks well and starts quickly.

Just gotta make a bracket to hold the battery in place now, and fix the cable to the boot floor.

Orientated the isolator so that I can use the elec aerial hole for the remote pull location.

I'm no auto electrician or master mechanic so I'm sure it looks agricultural to some but it works >_<

post-23873-1289730380_thumb.jpg

auto elec said it wasn't needed and used the r33 as an example.

Just wondering how that would work too, would you need a fuse to handle the full pca rating or just the cca rating?

Voltage at battery is 12.64v and with ignition on it's 12.31v at the connection point in the engine bay.

Dunno what it is when cranking as I've only got one pair of hands right now.

Just wondering how that would work too, would you need a fuse to handle the full pca rating or just the cca rating?

Yeah there are fuses that can handle the starter or a winch, but still sensitive enough to blow in the case of a direct short.

This is what I am using for +ve battery terminal with its specific "cal2" fuse built in:

http://www.projecta.com.au/catalogue/cid/35/asset_id/84

Hey kids, would this sort of set-up be ok? In terms of legalities and safety...

IMG_0215.jpgIMG_0214.jpgIMG_0216.jpg

It's a vented box that's held down by a strap, as you can see in the pics, the strap is mounted around the baby seat mount.

Tis a dry cell battery.

Still need to purchase the cabling, isolator and fuse.

Look like an ok spot?

Battery boxes need to be sealed, and vented to outside.

However, as you're using a dry cell battery, I'm pretty sure it will be OK (not 100% sure on the legalities there)

As for your method of fixing - I hope there are some forms of bolts holding it down. A single strap to a hook directly under the battery will give you very little support in any direction. The battery will be able to move around, and fray the strap.

Best to bolt the sucker down - you still can't beat the good old bolt down battery strap.

I'm not sure about legalities but I know from a scrutineering point of view the box only has to be vented of you're not using a dry cell.

Finished making the bracket and securing the cable.

Was my first crack at welding so was happy with the result.

post-23873-1290302336_thumb.jpg

My 32 currently has a normal battery in the normal space, but I have an Odyssey dry cell to go in the boot, and reading the side of the battery it says it still produces vapours and should be vented externally?

Ummmm, WTF?

WTF indeed.

I was under the impression that they needed air around them and couldn't be fully sealed up in a box but I didn't think they required external venting and could be mounted in any orientation.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • It’s new. It’s the cd009. I did take the transmission apart to mill down the bellhousing and had both housings come off the gears so wondering is something isn’t in right. I am running redline. I can get it in gear running too but it’s just not easier and it’s almost like 2, 4, 6, and reverse all the back gears aren’t happy going in
    • I’ll remember that as a last choice. It’s brand new
    • Got keys and did a walk around the yard planning the landscaping works with the family that I will be doing Main effort: remove all the woodchip in the gardens that are around (attached) to the outside of the house and replace with 10mm blue metal, having woodchip close to the house is a recipe for inviting white ants, currently there are no white ants within the block and I would like to keep it that way I'll be buying some large raised garden beds to grow veggies and stuff, and the woodchip will be mulched with everything else that gets dug up, pulled out, or cut down during works Next will some minor drainage and landscaping maintenance up one side of the house, where the fuse box, AC, and solar stuff will go, about 12 mtrs long by 2 meters wide, I'll break up the soil, add gypsum and then I'll dig in a French drains about 300mm deep x 300mm wide and fill it with agg pipe and blue metal, then level out the whole area with a 50mm layer of blue metal, the soil, whilst currently pretty compacted, will break up well with the gypsum to aid in drainage, I'll then cover the area with a 50mm layer of more blue metal In saying this, the drainage issue is minor, but that little hidden away area down the side is untidy and weedy, and as all of the main elec stuff is there I want it neat and tidy to appease my OCD Again, the material excavated from the French drains with be added to the garden bed mulch, as will some rose bushes and some other crap looking garden plants, and a old apricot tree that is looking worse for wear The apricot tree is currently in a little roundish garden bed that is in the middle of the back yard with few other crappy looking plants around it, that will all be removed, levelled, re-turfed, and is a perfect spot for a hills hoist There is also a area about 3m x 2m between the rear fence and shed that will get some attention, it looks like some stuff was stored there and the grass is dead, that will also get broken up and mulched, and is a prime spot for a pumpkin patch I've guestimated that I'll need: 3 tonnes of blue metal, 12 meters of agg pipe, 5kg of Gypsum, and a hills hoist, so a few bags of concrete as well to set it in place (the house currently has one of those pull out 4 line jobs, whilst it works, I want a retro old school hills hoist), I am also going to run some chickens, there's a great spot for a coop, so a chicken coop to suit 4 of those lovely egg laying bitches will also be on the job card That should keep me busy for a while, and will finish off the back yard ready for a early spring planting of some veggies and berries  Once the main effort is done I'll start out the front, there's a large rock garden that could use some TLC, but that is only minor works Should be fully moved in within 2 weeks, the landscaping works will start then Fun times, retirement is good  
    • It happens, that's what your single stage filler is used for.  If it is still visible after the 3 coats of 2k primer, it will be visible after the paint is laid down.  Its hard to give 100% perfect advice without being there in person, I'm very tempted to say stop where you are, fill your pin holes with a single stage putty first then keep going. 
    • New or used transmission? Alignment will be the same with engine running or not. If new, i'm presuming it's a clutch release bearing size issue. If used, are you certain it's a CD009/A and not an older CD008 or less? They had known synchro issues. In my opinion, these transmissions should always be purchased new, they're dirt cheap and you avoid dealing with old revisions. 
×
×
  • Create New...