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Battery Relocation Components

No Crust Racing
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No Crust Racing Grand Master

No Crust Racing

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Ahh thanks for that.

Is the blue triangle with the lightning bolt used to show the location of the isolator switch?

And on that, does it matter where I put the switch? Is closer to the battery better?

Edited by ActionDan
phunky_monkey Grand Master

phunky_monkey

Posted
Posted
Ahh thanks for that.

Is the blue triangle with the lightning bolt used to show the location of the isolator switch?

Yep.

And on that, does it matter where I put the switch? Is closer to the battery better?

Not sure. Mine is quite close, but I didn't do it.

Beer Baron Grand Master

Beer Baron

Posted
Posted

there are sometimes regs about location of isolator switch for certain classes and cars. usually it's base of the a pillar. on the scuttle panel and marked with the blue triangle with lightening bolt.

No Crust Racing Grand Master

No Crust Racing

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Almost done,

Wiring is fixed in place under the car, all the terminals have been crimped and wrapped, isolator works fine, voltage from front to rear is good, car cranks well and starts quickly.

Just gotta make a bracket to hold the battery in place now, and fix the cable to the boot floor.

Orientated the isolator so that I can use the elec aerial hole for the remote pull location.

I'm no auto electrician or master mechanic so I'm sure it looks agricultural to some but it works :P

post-23873-1289730380_thumb.jpg

PRO_32 Proficient

PRO_32

Posted
Posted

If that isolater does not have a fuseable link built in (doubt it) you may want to put one in pref as close to the battery as possible, pretty sure there was another thread around with some nifty circuit breakers with push button isolaters.

out of curiosity wht kinda voltage drop did you have from the engine bay to the battery?

Almost done,

Wiring is fixed in place under the car, all the terminals have been crimped and wrapped, isolator works fine, voltage from front to rear is good, car cranks well and starts quickly.

Just gotta make a bracket to hold the battery in place now, and fix the cable to the boot floor.

Orientated the isolator so that I can use the elec aerial hole for the remote pull location.

I'm no auto electrician or master mechanic so I'm sure it looks agricultural to some but it works >_<

post-23873-1289730380_thumb.jpg

No Crust Racing Grand Master

No Crust Racing

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auto elec said it wasn't needed and used the r33 as an example.

Just wondering how that would work too, would you need a fuse to handle the full pca rating or just the cca rating?

Voltage at battery is 12.64v and with ignition on it's 12.31v at the connection point in the engine bay.

Dunno what it is when cranking as I've only got one pair of hands right now.

paulR32gtr Mentor

paulR32gtr

Posted
Posted
Just wondering how that would work too, would you need a fuse to handle the full pca rating or just the cca rating?

Yeah there are fuses that can handle the starter or a winch, but still sensitive enough to blow in the case of a direct short.

This is what I am using for +ve battery terminal with its specific "cal2" fuse built in:

http://www.projecta.com.au/catalogue/cid/35/asset_id/84

StealthX Veteran

StealthX

Posted
Posted

Hey kids, would this sort of set-up be ok? In terms of legalities and safety...

IMG_0215.jpgIMG_0214.jpgIMG_0216.jpg

It's a vented box that's held down by a strap, as you can see in the pics, the strap is mounted around the baby seat mount.

Tis a dry cell battery.

Still need to purchase the cabling, isolator and fuse.

Look like an ok spot?

warps Mentor

warps

Posted
Posted

Battery boxes need to be sealed, and vented to outside.

However, as you're using a dry cell battery, I'm pretty sure it will be OK (not 100% sure on the legalities there)

As for your method of fixing - I hope there are some forms of bolts holding it down. A single strap to a hook directly under the battery will give you very little support in any direction. The battery will be able to move around, and fray the strap.

Best to bolt the sucker down - you still can't beat the good old bolt down battery strap.

No Crust Racing Grand Master

No Crust Racing

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I'm not sure about legalities but I know from a scrutineering point of view the box only has to be vented of you're not using a dry cell.

Finished making the bracket and securing the cable.

Was my first crack at welding so was happy with the result.

post-23873-1290302336_thumb.jpg

Marlin Grand Master

Marlin

Posted
Posted

My 32 currently has a normal battery in the normal space, but I have an Odyssey dry cell to go in the boot, and reading the side of the battery it says it still produces vapours and should be vented externally?

Ummmm, WTF?

No Crust Racing Grand Master

No Crust Racing

Posted
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Posted

WTF indeed.

I was under the impression that they needed air around them and couldn't be fully sealed up in a box but I didn't think they required external venting and could be mounted in any orientation.

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