Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hi guys,

just a question:

i was recently received a Excessive Noise Statement and did the required noise test.

so i went to Daalder Zorst in boxhill. not knowing much abt this noise test, he set up the mic etc etc and revved to 4800rpm. then said that my zorst was 10db over.

*ouch

anways, went back to the import dealer and one of the mechanics said that this particular guy at daalder was dodgey and makes a job out of these inspections.

the mechanic told me to goto a shop in st albans. i did that the following day and the tester said that 4800rpm was utter bull. this guy only tested my noise lever at 3200.

his explanation was that all cars that are imported and consequently have no engine numbers are tested at 3000 or there abouts.

any comments?

btw, i'm new to this forum

as you can see, this is in the wrong section...could an admin kindly place this in the correct section. excuse my retardedness

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/33418-epa-noise-test/
Share on other sites

Yeah.. you always have got to be a bit cautious.. because the exhaust shop has something to sell you, but they're not always going to shark you. Plenty of jap. exhausts *are* way loud and don't meet Australian standards.

Anyhow noods, it don't really matter who you take it to and what they measure it at, as long as they're an approved EPA noise tester and can write off your notice then thats all that really matters..

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/33418-epa-noise-test/#findComment-670784
Share on other sites

I took my car to Daalder in Box Hill.. and they were great..

they also did the test at 4800rpm

Im guessing they know what they are doing.. and the exhaust shop in st albans dont know what they are talking about..

I also have had nothing but good experiences with Daalder!!

;)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/33418-epa-noise-test/#findComment-671268
Share on other sites

hey guys, i need to go to test mine too, so which one better? st albans? box hill dallder?

i already got an aftermarket with resonator and muffler? what else "special resonator" they can add?? i'm hoping mine is around 89db though...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/33418-epa-noise-test/#findComment-674594
Share on other sites

I had an EPA on my bike at the start of last year. Ended up taking it to "a" St Albans tester (without naming names) and it was way over before we even got half way to the testing RPM. For a small fee (including the test) all i had to do was get some stock exhaust pipe numbers from a bike shop for him to say he saw it on the bike. The stock numbers went on the certificate and i rode off with a "quiet" bike. If i get done again, "i swapped my exhaust system back after the test".

I guess he only did it because he doesn't sell motorbike exhausts. Some guys can be pretty cool.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/33418-epa-noise-test/#findComment-675855
Share on other sites

Obviously higher than our 90db... maybe like 93 or 95

But there has been a new Jasma standard released sometime last year maybe, and best bet is to get the latest model exh from jpn that conforms to the new standard, as it will definitely be quieter than exhausts models made 3-4 yrs ago, and new models could under 90db (perhaps... ?)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/33418-epa-noise-test/#findComment-678888
Share on other sites

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, it's getting like that, my daughter is coming over on Thursday to help me remove the bonnet so I can install the Carbuilders underbonnet stuff,  I might get her to give me a hand and remove the hardtop, maybe, because on really hot days the detachable hardtop helps the aircon keep the interior cool, the heat just punches straight through to rag top I also don't have enough hair for the "wind in the hair" experience, so there is that....LOL
    • Could be falling edge/rising edge is set wrong. Are you getting sync errors?
    • On BMWs what I do because I'm more confident that I can't instantly crush the pinch welds and do thousands of USD in chassis damage is use a set of rubber jacking pads designed to protect the chassis/plastic adapter and raise a corner of the car, place the aforementioned 2x12 inch wooden planks under a tire, drop the car, then this normally gives me enough clearance to get to the front central jack point. If you don't need it to be a ramp it only needs to be 1-1.5 feet long. On my R33 I do not trust the pinch welds to tolerate any of this so I drive up on the ramps. Before then when I had to get a new floor jack that no longer cleared the front lip I removed it to get enough clearance to put the jack under it. Once you're on the ramps once you simply never let the car down to the ground. It lives on the ramps or on jack stands.
    • Nah. You need 2x taps for anything that you cannot pass the tap all the way through. And even then, there's a point in response to the above which I will come back to. The 2x taps are 1x tapered for starting, and 1x plug tap for working to the bottom of blind holes. That block's port is effectively a blind hole from the perspective of the tap. The tapered tap/tapered thread response. You don't ever leave a female hole tapered. They are supposed to be parallel, hence the wide section of a tapered tap being parallel, the existince of plug taps, etc. The male is tapered so that it will eventually get too fat for the female thread, and yes, there is some risk if the tapped length of the female hole doesn't offer enough threads, that it will not lock up very nicely. But you can always buzz off the extra length on the male thread, and the tape is very good at adding bulk to the joint.
    • Nice....looking forward to that update
×
×
  • Create New...