Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

i guess it wasn't to long since the last post so its not too bad if I continue here

has anyone created these yet? this was the first (and only thing) I hated about the r33 bodykit.....and to me it seems most r33 owners share this feeling....so with such a large demand for this product....why the hell hasn't it been made yet??

Seriously...its 2012......far more unique parts have been made for far more unique cars, and are sold in bulk (especially on eBay) yet no one can seem to create glass fog-lights?

I will probably end up using tail light film to give it a blackish appearance...but also wanted to know if this was given up on as id prefer to do it the right way.

  • Replies 52
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

i guess it wasn't to long since the last post so its not too bad if I continue here

has anyone created these yet? this was the first (and only thing) I hated about the r33 bodykit.....and to me it seems most r33 owners share this feeling....so with such a large demand for this product....why the hell hasn't it been made yet??

Seriously...its 2012......far more unique parts have been made for far more unique cars, and are sold in bulk (especially on eBay) yet no one can seem to create glass fog-lights?

I will probably end up using tail light film to give it a blackish appearance...but also wanted to know if this was given up on as id prefer to do it the right way.

If i had a lens to make a mold , i have access now to water clear no bubbles or disortion epoxy polymer from USA it comes out perfect and UV stable , cost wise they would be around 15 bucks or less to make depending on volume

Damn, i already gave both of my spare orange lenses to psi parts to make moulds which it seems they wernt able to do, you could maybe contact them and see if they still have em, i gave them to them for free so maybe they would pass them on for this good cause...

The waterclear polymer epoxy resin is stronger then glass , I use it for carbon, kevlar parts

It isnt availble in austtalia and its not casting resin

Which turns yellow in uv or spiderwebs in Uv

you can smash this with a ball peen hammer and it wont shatter , can video to prove it !! its made by aerospace composites company

Oh and its high temp stable , into the 300c range plus

Edited by Carbon 34

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi guys . Can someone help me  I bought an Android screen for my Nissan fuga but it won't turn on   
    • My guesstimate, with no real numbers to back it up, is it won't effect it greatly at all.its not a huge change in position, and I can't see the air flow changing from in turbulence that much based on distance, and what's in front of it. Johnny and Brad may have some more numbers to share from experience though.
    • Which solenoid? Why was it changed? Again, why was this done? ...well, these wear..but ultimately, why was it changed? Did you reset the idle voltage level after fitment? I'm just a tad confused ~ the flash code doesn't allude to these items being faulty, so in my mind the only reason to change these things, would be some drive-ability issue....and if that's the case, what was the problem? Those questions aside, check if the dropping resistor is OK ...should be 11~14 ohms (TCU doesn't throw a flash code for this) ~ also, these TCU designs have full time power (to keep fault code RAM alive), and I think that'll throw a logic code (as opposed to the 10 hardware codes), if that power is missing (or the ram has gone bad in the TCU, which you can check..but that's another story here perhaps).
    • Question for people who "know stuff" I am looking at doing the new intake like the one in the picture (the pictured is designed for the OEM TB and intake plenum), this design has the filter behind the front bar, but, the filter sits where the OEM duct heads into the front bar, and the standard aperture when the OEM ducting is removed allows the filter to pulled back out of the front bar into the engine bay for servicing, a simple blanking plate is used to seal the aperture behind the filter This will require a 45° silicone hose from the TB, like the alloy pipe that is currently there, to another 45° silicone hose to get a straight run to the aperture in the front bar Question: how will it effect the tune if I move the MAF about 100-150mm forward, the red is around where my MAF is currently, and the green would be where it would end up Like this This is the hole the filter goes through  Ends up like this LOL..Cheers    
    • Despite the level up question, actually I do know what that is....it is a pressure sender wire.  So check out around the oil filter for an oil pressure sender, or maybe fuel pressure near the filter or on the engine. Possibly but less likely coolant pressure sensor because they tend to be combined temp/pressure senders if you have one. Could also be brake pressure (in a brake line somewhere pre ABS) but maybe I'm the only one that has that on a skyline.
×
×
  • Create New...