Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 79
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

It would be depending on the power that you were chasing.

A GT3071R will support 270>300kw (with a big rear housing) but will be laggier than a gt2871R as it has a 60mm turbine wheel rather that the 53.8mm turbine wheel found in the 2871R. Also the GT3071R runs a 56 trim compressor which will also be slightly laggier than the 52 trim which is the most common trim used on the GT2871R although the 56 trim is available with the GT2871R's.

not sure if they have any markings that determine whether or not they are "B"'s etc without measuring lobes with a dial gauge................speaking of lobes, if the cams are still in the motor, I wouldn't be touching them before checking lobes & journals regardless of mileage.

So where do I start shopping for a NS111 compressor wheel and housing? :P

The NS111 wheel is the T28 9 blade turbine wheel. I thnk that you will find it's cheaper to buy a complete CHRA than to buy just the compressor wheel, get the housing machined to fit and then get the assembly balanced. Infact it might be the cheapest to get a complete GT2871R swap the T2 turbine housing over with the T3 housing on your 2530 then sell the 2530 as a complete turbo, going this route you will probably on be paying a few hundred once the 2530's sold, and you can swap the housings yourself.

As for the cam they should have the lift and duration stamped on the back end of the cam and the shaft itself will have Tomei cast into it.

EDIT!! Looks like i could be wrong about Tomei being cast into the cam as i have just look at some pictures and it looks like they don't. I know my HKS do but Tomei mustn't.

IMG_0768.jpg

IMG_0766.jpg

Edited by D_Stirls

rm rb26 greddy 'ss' street-special cams are marked "grex ss"

if I recall correctly my rb25 tomei poncams were marked; were NIB so had no worries.

sounds nice on idle :)

rueben - sell the hks 2530 and purchase a new turbo, more economical that way & better value for money IMHO

reuben - sell the hks 2530 and purchase a new turbo, more economical that way & better value for money IMHO

:) By the time the 2530 sells, I'd be able to afford an R35 :(

Figured I'd just have a much better chance of building the turbo I want, rather than rely on selling, then finding the right turbo. Plus I don't have to deal with tyre-kickers.

The T3 housing i the thing that's not easy to come by. I'm pretty sure that Ryans GT2871R was actually a GT-RS, which is the same turbo except that HKS offer a T3 turbine housing where as Garrett don't. That is why i'm suggesting buying the complete turbo and swapping just the rear housings.ATP offer aftermarket T3 housings for the T28 based turbos though.

I GT3071R will be $11963 posted from the states (i think it's canada actually). That's a 0.82 A/R with the 2.75 inlet 2 inch out compressor housing (which looks closer to the factory turbo than the 4 inch inlet version.

I just had a look and ATP will do you a 2871R CHRA and compressor housing for $1204 posted.

A complete GT2871R will be round the $1600 mark posted, but then you can sell the GT2530 complete.

well i am getting mine from the US so yeah expect at least a couple of weeks

This is not an option.

The T3 housing i the thing that's not easy to come by. I'm pretty sure that Ryans GT2871R was actually a GT-RS, which is the same turbo except that HKS offer a T3 turbine housing where as Garrett don't. That is why i'm suggesting buying the complete turbo and swapping just the rear housings.ATP offer aftermarket T3 housings for the T28 based turbos though.

I GT3071R will be $11963 posted from the states (i think it's canada actually). That's a 0.82 A/R with the 2.75 inlet 2 inch out compressor housing (which looks closer to the factory turbo than the 4 inch inlet version.

Is this a typo? :)

I just had a look and ATP will do you a 2871R CHRA and compressor housing for $1204 posted.

A complete GT2871R will be round the $1600 mark posted, but then you can sell the GT2530 complete.

Might look into this option.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • It says 300ZX, does that make it an Aus delivered car? Funny how back in the day I just couldn't care less about Z32's and these days I am just in love with them. Back when Nissan was into pushing the envelope. 🤣
    • Hi guys, just after some guidance with an R34 sunroof that has stopped working correctly. It still opens and closes perfectly fine, but it no longer tilts/vents up or down. As a result, the rear of the glass now sags a bit as it drops down slightly in order to retract into the roof, but now it can't pop upwards into a flush position. I’ve probed the pins on the back of the switch connector with a multimeter and it seems like both switches (for open/close and tilt/vent) still work correctly. Any ideas on what it could be, or where I should even start in terms of diagnosing? I'm sure someone's had this issue before but I haven't been able to find anything online relating to this specific issue, most of the issues are with the seals leaking or the motor failing entirely. Thanks in advance!
    • Do you have some data like fuel pressure? It's really hard to say if you're still fighting a fuel system issue at this point. Could be something weird like the FPCM dipping out.
    • Yeah in that case, pulling the dent out. Event a very slight dent can create a lot of work filler-wise and there is a strong chance the panel won't be the factory shape when you are done (as the dent will result in a new high point created somewhere, then everything is brought up to that new high point... but the panel shouldn't be that high if that makes sense).  So you've filled and primed the panel and it is flat, why would you go back and remove the primer and add more filler? 
    • Something else I have been faffing with while the car was off the road is making the AC work. Assuming the car isn't at a thermal limit the idea of having AC while waiting in line to go on track sounds delightful. I have actually been lugging around the weight of the entire system since 2018 when the RB25NEO went in without it working at all.  The main reason was in the first few events before I got around to re-gassing it the rubber hose that runs under the manifold had the factory heat wrap/sleeve fail resulting in this: ~2 years ago I purchased a complete used R32 AC line set but when I finally went to install it the line i needed was different where the expansion section is I found a local place that was able to replace the rubber section and re-crimp. They also added some modern heat sleeve to the hose Tight fit but fingers crossed this is the last physical piece of the puzzle needed
×
×
  • Create New...