Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys,

i am putting together a rb25 just for street use.

At the moment my current setup on my current motor is

3071R

plasmaman

6 boost manifold

all supporting mods exhaust, fmic, injectors, pump, vipec. etc

I have got another Rb 25 that i am about looking at assembling,

its only done 70 thousand kms, i've pulled it apart and all bearings, rings, piston clearances are within factory tolerances.

i am looking at freshening it up with:

Genuine nissan headgasket

genuine nissan bearings, mains, thrust and big end bushes.

Cosworth Forged pistons (standard bore size)

re-using standard head bolts and rod bolts.

I'm going to upgrade my 3071R to a 3076R,

looking to push about 300 rwkw. and still maintain drivability and a reliable motor.

anything else that you guys recommend while i have got the engine apart?

i'm not sure what kind of psi is needed to get to 300rwkw, but i believe the standard headgasket and head bolts are up to the job.

Are forged pistons overkill for the job? i don't mind using standard pistons.

if there is anything else that would be a good idea to do while the engine is apart. ive searched through the forums already, maybe there is something i have missed

cheers

From the reading I have done from people and there results and how theve built it I would say the idea you got going at the moment is right for the 300kw mark and personally I would upgrade the pistons and the headbolts just for peice of mind.

To run 300 you would probably be running 19-20 psi with the 3076 so in regards to head gasket I would probably go for something aftermarket as most I have read are running about 18psi with standard one. I am no expert in the department as have not built my own motor but thats just what ive gathered in my research.

its probably a good preventative measure to replace them with arp head studs,

Standard head bolts look to be Sturdy and high quality tho.

Ive looked into an mls head gasket, i'm undecided as i don't really want to get the block decked just to put one on.

anyone else put a mls headgasket on without decking the block and giving a quick clean up with a wizzer and some flap wheels?

i just wasn;t to sure how tolerant they were compared to standard style headgaskets.

hey mate im building mine now slowly and aiming for simular figures. was only 85 for big end studs and head bolts 250 from memory. worth investing in anyway. wouldnt worry about stock headgasket unless stock boost. i went king bearings but nissan ones are good

as for the comment about getting block decked its not really that expensive unless you dont want to strip it right down. but if its out go 4 it. was quoted $260 for bore out 20 thou and hone. $82 to acid bath crank and polish. $82 to deck/mill block and acid bath. ended up getting that all for $250 mates rates but you never know if its been hot before and warped etc

hey mate im building mine now slowly and aiming for simular figures. was only 85 for big end studs and head bolts 250 from memory. worth investing in anyway. wouldnt worry about stock headgasket unless stock boost. i went king bearings but nissan ones are good

as for the comment about getting block decked its not really that expensive unless you dont want to strip it right down. but if its out go 4 it. was quoted $260 for bore out 20 thou and hone. $82 to acid bath crank and polish. $82 to deck/mill block and acid bath. ended up getting that all for $250 mates rates but you never know if its been hot before and warped etc

machining is cheap, i thought i was having a good run on the stock head gasket atm seems to be good on my current standard motor @20+ psi

Do it once, do it right. Don't re-use the factory head bolts, rod bolts or the factory pistons.

I will prob go the rod bolts aswell as a the arp head bolts. Standard Rods look quite robust.

put a crank collar on,i wish i had now im taking the motor out again to do it.

With this crank collar. i take it the factory crank collar only goes iunto the pump drive 5 mm or so. aftermarket collars go into the oil pump 12mm(?). so less chance of slip or braking

do you have to rebalance the crank with this new crank collar? still fine to use the factory oil pump with the upgraded crank collar?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Bit of a pity we don't have good images of the back/front of the PCB ~ that said, I found a YT vid of a teardown to replace dicky clock switches, and got enough of a glimpse to realize this PCB is the front-end to a connected to what I'll call PCBA, and as such this is all digital on this PCB..ergo, battery voltage probably doesn't make an appearance here ; that is, I'd expect them to do something on PCBA wrt power conditioning for the adjustment/display/switch PCB.... ....given what's transpired..ie; some permutation of 12vdc on a 5vdc with or without correct polarity...would explain why the zener said "no" and exploded. The transistor Q5 (M33) is likely to be a digital switching transistor...that is, package has builtin bias resistors to ensure it saturates as soon as base threshold voltage is reached (minimal rise/fall time)....and wrt the question 'what else could've fried?' ....well, I know there's an MCU on this board (display, I/O at a guess), and you hope they isolated it from this scenario...I got my crayons out, it looks a bit like this...   ...not a lot to see, or rather, everything you'd like to see disappears down a via to the other side...base drive for the transistor comes from somewhere else, what this transistor is switching is somewhere else...but the zener circuit is exclusive to all this ~ it's providing a set voltage (current limited by the 1K3 resistor R19)...and disappears somewhere else down the via I marked V out ; if the errant voltage 'jumped' the diode in the millisecond before it exploded, whatever that V out via feeds may have seen a spike... ....I'll just imagine that Q5 was switched off at the time, thus no damage should've been done....but whatever that zener feeds has to be checked... HTH
    • I think Fitmit had some, have a look on there (theyre Australian as well)
    • Hah, fair enough! But if you learn with this one you can drive any other OEM manual. No modern luxury features like auto rev-matching or hillstart assist to give you a false sense of confidence. And a heavy car with not that much torque so it stalls easily. 
    • Actually, I'd say all three are the automatic option. Just the different trim levels. The manual would be RSFS, no? 
×
×
  • Create New...