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The heat exchanger in the radiator is important as it helps bring the auto trans up to operating temperature more quickly - and the majority of trips are less than 10km. If you are worried about water getting into the auto trans (and I have never seen it myself but I'll take your word for it that it happens) then you would be better advise people to replace their ten year old radiators before they fail.

I understand that the side core is their for that reason, but I just bypassed mine and temperatures were still well within range after allowing the car to warm up for 5minutes at idle. Though if the vehicle doesn't get warmed up correctly then yes running a cold gearbox is an issue. But aftermarket auto ones expecially in alloy are very hard to find in my experience.

As stated I have seen side cores crack before note only once on a skyline majority of ones I seen have been on Holden's and Volkswagens (I have worked for both dealerships). I bypassed mine because I am running an alloy radiator.

  • 4 years later...

Sorry, I meant it from the perspective of someone who has spend 8k+ on his auto in his R34 through various means, shift kits, standalone ECUs, coolers, etc.

Its great, when it works.

When it doesn't, manual time.

If you never go above 300rwkw, sure, I suppose it can work, but for how long?

I imagine I will break mine again in short order if my car is ever back on the road again, and when that happens, yeah, people typically don't go "Well I will down grade from 380rwkw to 240rwkw" they just go manual :P

  • 4 years later...

I just installed a stage2 MV shift kit into my re4r01a in my fd rx7 and now it changes gear at 5900rpm instead of 7200-7400.  Does anyone have any idea why?

It's useless like this, Im really annoyed. Will call them after the long weekend, but i cant see it being able to be fixed without installing a different valve body :(

On 1/25/2020 at 12:57 AM, Mikey13b said:

I just installed a stage2 MV shift kit into my re4r01a in my fd rx7 and now it changes gear at 5900rpm instead of 7200-7400.  Does anyone have any idea why?

It's useless like this, Im really annoyed. Will call them after the long weekend, but i cant see it being able to be fixed without installing a different valve body :(

I would imagine there's no compensation or feedback in the auto ECU's software for the delay between powering the solenoids, and the clutches engaging. I can't see how the ECU would know when the clutches are physically connecting. Since the shift time has decreased, the shift RPM point is now too early.

It's been a long time since I put my kit in, and I can't remember the upshift RPM changing, but I have noticed that it doesn't rev out as much as I would like.

If it's a big deal to you, you'd be better off going with an aftermarket auto controller. Swapping valve bodies won't address the issue without going backwards in the areas you need (ie shift time, flaring on changes).

There's a few things to tweak with the stock mapping anyways, such as line pressure vs engine load (rather than just TPS), lockup clutch engagement conditions, shift points vs engine load (rather than just TPS), or setting up proper timing retarding on upshifts.

I've been interested in setting up a controller myself, but nothing has annoyed me enough yet that I haven't been able to solve in other ways with my ECU.

 

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