The crashed car!!!

[red900ss]

heh I'm still stuck on flex's avatar :uh-huh:

[funkymonkey]

yes troy's a real picasso never seen a guy more dedicated to his car.

btw, how's the wife n kid troy? r they puttin up with your frequent car time??

[ylwgtr2]

ahhh clever lil man u are. Is that how all panel beaters do ti or is this your preferred method.

Lead loading is a thing of the past....not many people have the patience to do it these days ....although its the right thing to do in spots that get flexed such as door pillars ect....body filler is quite good these days but in these spots it may eventually crack or fall off......All panel shops are most likely to have a spot welder which welds on brass pins for pulling...i like the magna spot coz its a portable unit but it but low on grunt for the thicker gauge material but its great for door and 1/4 skins.My repair process takes a bit longer than shops method only due to extra care on feathering out and a few other bits and peices

but everyone does things diffrently i guess...there are a few cheats you can do to cut down time but good preparation = a good and long lasting paintjob so id rather take extra care now than pay later...after all..you dont want to do this to a car twice

[GTRgeoff]

But whether they choose to use it or not....had a bump not long after getting my first r33 in 98 and the panelshop wanted me to pay all the extra for air freighting from Japan a new right front guard as the insurance company didn't want to pay it. Only very light damage, and they claimed they were Canberra's best panel shop. I told them to panelbeat it and they started moaning about the time and effort and they didn't quote for it. In the end they just got on with it and it looks fine still.

I saw some lead wiping once and it was magic. The guy was restoring a vintage lorry and he wanted to stay original with everything, even the panel work, so no filler anywhere.

Keep up the good work Troy. i look forward to seeing the finished product.

[adznight]

Mmmmmm starting to look perrrty Keep it up!

[Revhead]

Yeah damn insurance companies... I had a tail-ender recently (ie someone ran into the back of me) and the insurance company didn't want to pay for a replacement rear bar and reinforcement, they wanted them both 'repaired'... might have saved them $20 on a $1500 job. I hate insurance companies.

Anyway, back on topic, this has to be one of the best threads I've seen in a long time, and it's good to see some people still take pride in their work. Cheers!

[ylwgtr2]

Once again another update....Now the bulk of the repair is complete and the smaller repairs have been done and hifilled the whole body is sanded with 240 dry and its masked up and hifilled in full heres a couple of pics ..will have some more tomorrow of underbody sealers and rubber under body coating being applied

[adznight]

Still going to be yellow?

[funkymonkey]

or homosexual pink if troy has his way Is that sitting at Sam (or was it Alan's) paintbooth? And who's skyline is that parked behind yours?

[adznight]

Yeah I think i've seen that line too at one of the old BMT Dyno days. Had the crazy chequered sticker over the back of it and down the sides.

[ylwgtr2]

underbody update....the rear section of the rail had been damaged due to jacking and the rear floor pan hasnt been planished up correctly after a previous repair so i ended up taking off the rear rail section and reshped it and re fitted it....then we re seam seal the underbody and spray it with a spatter gun to get the factory type sealer finish...then we match the factory grey undercoat and i have painted the underbody and misted the colour through the tunnel

[adznight]

By the looks of it seems like that rail had a hard life? As usuall all looks good now though

[predator]

why are chasis rails made like paper on the Skylines?

[ylwgtr2]

there not weak....you are not supposed to jack a car from the rails....they have jacking points...if you have to jack it on the rail the best spot is where the front rail overlaps the intermediate rail...use a jack with a rubber coated cup not the full steel one

[EnricoPalazzo]

my rails are all hacked up aswell from jacking.... I dont jack from there thou.

[ylwgtr2]

now we apply drip check to the new chassis rails where they meet the skirts,this keeps the moisture out from the join...next we match the factory phosphate primer and spray some over the top of the skirts and drift it out over the upper support beam to match the original stuff.....then we mix up some colour with matting base added to it this is dull off the paint in the engine bay and give it a satin finish...the material is then applied,this takes quite a while to make sure every nook and cranny is covered and make sure not to get runs and a uniform finish....the inside of the cabin has also been fitted with deadner sheets and is also painted....now the hard work is over,its time for the fun stuff....lets start assembling!!!

[adznight]

Thats so cool, so when does the "step by step - build your own GTR" mag come out?

[skylineakt]

Will you even tell that the car has been in an accident once it is finished??

I really can't wait to see Sam's paint job.

Saw this other car that he worked on and it was great craftmanship.

Can't wait to see your car on the road Troy!

[ylwgtr2]

Will you even tell that the car has been in an accident once it is finished??

I really can't wait to see Sam's paint job.

Saw this other car that he worked on and it was great craftmanship.

Can't wait to see your car on the road Troy!

hey aaron...well the aim is to get it back to factory specs,so we can only do our best.I have to say that sam would have to be one of the best tradesmen i have seen,he really has been given a gift....At this stage i think i will paint the car and block it down and get old golden hands to give it the final coat.Which car did you see?

[GTRgeoff]

Just looking at the rails there Troy. Is that damage from forklifts?

I saw plenty of smaller cars like MR2's that had no sills and damage on the rails from being "parked" by forklifts in Japan.