Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 210
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

gohan i did get your pms,sorry i been a bit busy lately....however what your asking is a only a one off job for me and i would have to charge you a large sum....i understand more people may want the products but i am really not that interested in trying to get money out of people as most people want stuff done for a bowel of rice these days!Not saying you do,just not interested in making moulds and modifying them for such a job and then trying to work them

no wuckaz, so even for 'a large sum' you wouldn't do it? could you possibly point me in the direction of someone else i may be able to talk to about what i wanted done?

anyways, all the best for the rest of the car assembling. ;)

updated pics....i ended up fitting a few extra things such electric fans,lap counter switch as per nismo MFD and an intercooler sprayer setup so i opened up the factory loom and wired it all in...it came up really well in the end,you would never know these parts are not standard.I used fans from a ford falcon controlled by a small device that taps into the vehicles original sender so no messy wiring or extra senders to fit....this unit is also adjustable in the temp department.

  • 2 weeks later...

ok update.....Now that the mechanicals have been fitted we hang the doors,gaurds,headlights and bonnet on.We then get all the gaps right then disassemble the car again....this time we leave the door hinges on the vehicle.Then we dry rub the car with 240 grit paper taking extra care where our repairs were to shape the vehicle nicely.Then we dust the vehicle over with black dust from a 3M guide coat power sponge,this allows us to see where we are wet sanding which we do with 400 grit wet.Then the car is dryed off and wet rubbed again using 800 grit wet

i had no idea how much work goes into repairs, crazy stuff but sounds like a very high quality repair.

i didn't really want to post this in here, but it's easier for you to reply here than PM, so how's $2000 cash upfront for the body kit work? front/rear bumper? Am i ball park here $ wise? (can edit/delete this later if something is worked out, keep the thread strictly ur repair updates)

yeah, pics would be nice. wanna see all this black dust, wet sanding, 800 grit stuff. :rofl:

yeah pc is crap....will try upload some after....the first few coats of paint will be getting applied hopefully on the weekend so i will try and get some shots of it being done by one of the most talented tradesmen in the painting trade...this guy is a damn robot!!!!

you gettin sam to paint your car? thought you were gonna do it yourself?

if it is sam doin it on the weekend can i come watch n take pics? i promise i won't get in the way :)

:) for posting this thread Troy, I think its really opened people's eyes about repairs, particularly after the flack that MD took for looking at the same solution.

One of the race cars I used to run was a full cut n shut too, and it handled no worse than the other cars. I would much rather have new, straight parts than straightened old ones any day :(

Guys, you have to remember that not all shut 'n cuts are done with the same tender loving care that Troy takes in preparing his own car... Panel beaters and dodgy habibs in their backyards aren't going to undo the spot welds along the chassis rails of two cars and then seam weld them back together like you have done. They'll take two half cuts and weld them together straight across the width of the car and cover it up with underbody tar.

I don't think it's too much of a leap of faith to say that most cut 'n shut jobs are absolutely unroadworthy.

I take this type of care in preparing any car i work on.....so do all of my mates with panel shops....i do get your point but you have to understand mine....if i dint post these pics here what would you think if you heard the car was in half???you would think it was dodgy right?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I have been being VERY quiet about what you're alluding to, as it is something that ticks me off... The number of cars from factory that run coil overs is HUGE! Most of them these days do... The other part that annoys me, is people saying "Well all the incabin adjustable suspension is illegal by blah blah blah"... If that's the case, then why can I buy a car brand new that can do it if, FULL STOP in cabin adjustable suspension is illegal...   Also, I could just chuck some aftermarket shocks in my car, throw the stock springs on, after my blue slip, dump my super low springs back in. Same shock and spring style setup... Hell, they could also be the same colour springs etc.     I'm voting, BlueSlipper didn't want to touch the above car for some reason. Whether it be some sort of bias against the car, the owner, them maybe having previously done dodgy shit and now they're being super careful in case they get slapped in the face by the Gumbyment again... Find a new blueslip place.   And can confirm as you had said, yes there are holy bibles of vehicle heights, and all sorts of other suspension stuff. Heck your run of the mill mechanic, and tyre shop has access to all of that stuff. It's how they do wheel alignments...
    • Funny story Heading to Sydney this morning on the HWY there was some slow traffic, so I gave it the beans and midway through my overtaking "power run" I lost all power It seems that I missed a hose clamp,  and the MAF and filter went WiFi To make this more problematic, the little tool kit that lives in the boot, is sitting in the sun room at Goulburn......LOL Luckily for me I found a bit of steel on the side of the road that could be used like a rusty and bent flat head screw driver to tighten it up enough that it got me into Sydney, it is now all tight like a tiger with the aid of a 8mm socket Note to self: Use my brain and double check stuff, and always keep that little tool kit in the car for when I have a brain fart
    • Oh, and as for everyone with their fuel economy changes, I switch between E10 and 98 in the company car. Even do when I had personal cars that could run on E10. You know what changed my fuel economy in any noticeable way? How I drove, and where I drove. Otherwise, say on full tanks of just back and forth from work only (So same trips, same sort of traffic), couldn't notice a difference that I can correlate to the type of fuel in use. In the current vehicle, that's over 42L of USABLE fuel. While 98 is all "more energy dense", it also has higher knock resistance as it takes more energy to get it to ignite too. The longer hydrocarbons, typically more tightly bound. So running the same ignition map, can also produce less power, if there isn't enough time to get it all burnt through properly, as yep, the flame propagation speed is different from lower octane fuel to higher (Higher has a lower flame propagation, due to the more tightly bound and harder to self ignite funs. This is also typically where, a vehicle that is designed purely to run on 91 (Whether it be E10 or normal 91) usually sees absolutely no real world difference in fuel economy for the normal man, woman, or dog.
    • We've got some servos around me that have 91 with E10, 91 (no E10), 95, and 98. At those stations the change from 91 E10 to 91, is typically around 8c/L.   But lets not get started on the price of fuel in Oz. It's ridiculous. All the service stations around me, bar one, the price of fuel has been over the $2 mark per litre for the cheapest, 98 being around $2.45. That one service station is a CostCo, fuel from it comes from the same refineries, and makes no pitstops, it runs great, including the 98. In fact, I've had no issues on CostCo fuel, but plenty of issues at other stations!. The CostCo fuel, was $1.65 roughly this week for 94 with E10. $1.88 for 98. Servos directly across from it, $2.10 for 91 E10, and $2.48 for 98. The part I had to laugh at? If I drive multiple HOURS away from Brisbane, say out near Nanango, or Kingaroy, or even out to Goondiwindi, the price of their fuel, is the same as what it is at the CostCo... Oh, and that BP servo at Goondiwindi is HUGE and goes through epic turnover of fuel, so it's not sitting there for weeks going to shit. And what blows me away, my mate is one of the people who drives the Fuel Tanker all around QLD, delivering to all those places. At the same company his previous role was doing the "local haul" deliveries... Same truck, same driver, same pickup point it all comes from. So you tell me, how the hell it is 60c/L CHEAPER for fuel, when nearly all else is equal, except they require a B-Double to drive half a day out of Brisbane, and half a day back, every second day, compared to the delivery that can be under 30 minutes drive from the fuel pickup point... Not to mention, go five blocks down the road, and Ampol to Ampol will vary 30c/L... And I've had this conversation with my mate... The way it's priced, is just typical, pure and utter rubbish... He also does runs from Brisbane, to all over QLD, down to Newcastle, Sydney, Nowra, Melbourne, Geelong, and even out to parts of the NT depending on the companies needs. His main stuff is all the longer distance away from home for a few days at a time, then when he's back, he loves to just pickup extra shifts wherever he can in whichever truck, hence all the weird different places.   Oh, as for getting E10 into all the fuels in Australia... It was very quickly highlighted, that we don't have enough biomass available to use to make E10 sustainably like they require, and it would dramatically cut into our, and the worlds food chain supply...   I vote we all just start running on liquid methane gas... Plenty of that just getting tapped off at tips from underground decay... (Note, this is pure just stupid commenting. I could very easily highlight the reasons its not a good idea especially on scale...)
    • Am I correct in assuming that the R35's are getting the classic skyline haircut off the odometer?  Quick search on carsales, there are 33 08 and 09 GTR's for sale, only 2 of them have more then 100,000km's on them (116,075 and 110,000 respectively).  And somehow there are about 25 for sale with around 60,000kms? Looks like the classic skyline haircut to me =/
×
×
  • Create New...