Jump to content
SAU Community

What fuel do you use in your Skyline?  

168 members have voted

You do not have permission to vote in this poll, or see the poll results. Please sign in or register to vote in this poll.

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 44
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Always BP Ultimate at the track, I even bring 2x 20l fuel containers filled with it. I will go out of my way to get BP Ultimate, but will settle on the rare occasion for any 98 for daily driving.

Hey kong, haven't seen you in these parts for a while lol.

Good poll. I use whatever I can get, seems okay for a stockish skyline with stock tune. Need an option for that though...

Edited by Galois

Yeah I've been busy working on the car, and the having periods of I really do not want to think about anything car wise, as I have things to do I've been putting off lol

I've been using BP Ultimate for the past 5 months or so. But noticing the petrol prices lately got me thinking more. Oddly the BP prices don't change at all, but the Shell closest to home has petrol dirt cheap now. So was wondering how much better really is BP Ultimate 98 vs Shell's 98 or Caltex's 98?

I've been paying $1.42 to $1.45 for my BP Ultimate for months now. The BP closest to me seems to be very stable on prices. However the Shell station has their 98 at $1.25 to $1.30 and thereabouts. I know it's only 15c, but it does add up.

Now I've heard alot of service stations get their fuels often from the same refineries. Thus Shell and Caltex could be in fact selling BP refined fuel. I've asked at the servo about this and the chick there wasn't able to help at all. But I'm sure someone knows something.

depends on what state you are in as to what fuel you are actually using. so you might not be actually using BP fuel at all. it may be shell or caltex. i can't remember what companies have refineries in which states. i'm pretty sure that QLD has a BP refinery. other than that i'm not overly sure.

Caltex 98 but want to tune for E85 when there are more places to get it.

Its only e70 at the moment, you wont have any warning when it changes unless you have a wideband or a flex fuel setup.

I paid 88.4cL last tank of Eflex.

http://media.gm.com/content/media/au/en/ne...2010/0826_eflex

Used to run on BP Ultimate, but changed to V-Power a few months ago when I moved house and shell was far closer. The car runs a thousand times better on V-Power, lots more response, no weird noises and better economy = win.

See that's the kind of thing I'm wondering myself, but due to other issues I'm having with the car right now, I won't be adding another gremlin by chaning fules just yet. Once I get that all sorted out, I think I might try Shell since they are way closer to home than BP and often cheaper too. There's just that feeling that regardless of where you go, how do you know what fuel you're getting. The shell near me could be using Caltex fuel or BP fuel. All I can do is contact the managers of the servos and ask who supplies their fuel perhaps :happy:

should have made the fuel station a multiple vote one cos i use both bp and shell

Good point. I'm not sure if I can edit it now though. Might ask an admin to see if they can make it multi choice.

Edited by KrazyKong
See that's the kind of thing I'm wondering myself, but due to other issues I'm having with the car right now, I won't be adding another gremlin by chaning fules just yet. Once I get that all sorted out, I think I might try Shell since they are way closer to home than BP and often cheaper too. There's just that feeling that regardless of where you go, how do you know what fuel you're getting. The shell near me could be using Caltex fuel or BP fuel. All I can do is contact the managers of the servos and ask who supplies their fuel perhaps :)

Good point. I'm not sure if I can edit it now though. Might ask an admin to see if they can make it multi choice.

there is a chance that they might not even know. the truck that turns up to fill up the tanks may be the same as their brand and they may pay the company they are branded, but it is simply shipped out from another brands refinery.

as for different brands giving different performance, etc, a lot of it can come down to the individual servos, as well as what day you get fuel. some servos tanks are in better condition that others. if you get fuel and the tanks have been recently refilled then there will be more crud floating around in the fuel as it hasn't had time to settle to the bottom. or if the tanks were filled the night before and you are 1 of the first people to get fuel in the morning then you may suck up some of the crap that has settled around the pick up and hasn't been sucked away yet.

i have noticed what appears to be different fuel economy from different fuels, if i go off how many kms i do for the gauge to get to a certain point, however once i actually calculate it properly it isn't much different because different pumps seem to fill up to a slightly different level, so if i get an extra 1 or 2L in the filler neck of the tank then i will get an extra 10 or 20kms out of the first 1/4 of a tank. however if you then change servos it can then make the last tank of fuel's economy look either really good or really bad (or the same) depending on how different it is at saying the tank is full.

ah crap, i just realised that i have to drive 400kms on the weekend and will need to get fuel before i go and it's the first weekend of the holidays so getting fuel is going to be a nightmare.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi,  Just joined the forum so I could share my "fix" of this problem. Might be of use to someone. Had the same hunting at idle issue on my V36 with VQ35HR engine after swapping the engine because the original one got overheated.  While changing the engine I made the mistake of cleaning the throttle bodies and tried all the tricks i could find to do a throttle relearn with no luck. Gave in and took it to a shop and they couldn't sort it. Then took it to my local Nissan dealership and they couldn't get it to idle properly. They said I'd need to replace the throttle bodies and the ecu probably costing more than the car is worth. So I had the idea of replacing the carbon I cleaned out with a thin layer of super glue and it's back to normal idle now. Bit rough but saved the car from the wreckers 🤣
    • After my last update, I went ahead with cleaning and restoring the entire fuel system. This included removing the tank and cleaning it with the Beyond Balistics solution, power washing it multiple times, drying it thoroughly, rinsing with IPA, drying again with heat gun and compressed air. Also, cleaning out the lines, fuel rail, and replacing the fuel pump with an OEM-style one. During the cleaning process, I replaced several hoses - including the breather hose on the fuel tank, which turned out to be the cause of the earlier fuel leak. This is what the old fuel filter looked like: Fuel tank before cleaning: Dirty Fuel Tank.mp4   Fuel tank after cleaning (some staining remains): Clean Fuel Tank.mp4 Both the OEM 270cc and new DeatschWerks 550cc injectors were cleaned professionally by a shop. Before reassembling everything, I tested the fuel flow by running the pump output into a container at the fuel filter location - flow looked good. I then fitted the new fuel filter and reassembled the rest of the system. Fuel Flow Test.mp4 Test 1 - 550cc injectors Ran the new fuel pump with its supplied diagonal strainer (different from OEM’s flat strainer) and my 550cc injectors using the same resized-injector map I had successfully used before. At first, it idled roughly and stalled when I applied throttle. Checked the spark plugs and found that they were fouled with carbon (likely from the earlier overly rich running when the injectors were clogged). After cleaning the plugs, the car started fine. However, it would only idle for 30–60 seconds before stalling, and while driving it would feel like a “fuel cut” after a few seconds - though it wouldn’t fully stall. Test 2 – Strainer swap Suspecting the diagonal strainer might not be reaching the tank bottom, I swapped it for the original flat strainer and filled the tank with ~45L of fuel. The issue persisted exactly the same. Test 3 – OEM injectors To eliminate tuning variables, I reinstalled the OEM 270cc injectors and reverted to the original map. Cleaned the spark plugs again just in-case. The stalling and “fuel cut” still remained.   At this stage, I suspect an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, caused during the cleaning process. This has led me to look into getting Frenchy’s fuel hanger and replacing the unit entirely. TL;DR: Cleaned and restored the fuel system (tank, lines, rail, pump). Tested 550cc injectors with the same resized-injector map as before, but the car stalls at idle and experiences what feels like “fuel cut” after a few seconds of driving. Swapped back to OEM injectors with original map to rule out tuning, but the issue persists. Now suspecting an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, possibly cause by the cleaning process.  
    • For race cars, this is one part where I find having the roll cage bar having gone through a hole in the floor better than the build it up on a ledge inside... The Merc I help on, the main hoop ends are marked on the car, and the jack is marked... Jack goes under a few inches and lifts one whole side of the car up... Removes that fight for long slim jacks for race car duties!   My biggest issue for the daily drivers I work on, is my jacks don't go high enough. The jacks start out on a few blocks, jack it up, then start a second jack under it on more blocks, and then I can get an axle stand under it. My axle stands are presently in use, and are nearly fully extended. The car is sitting with barely more than a cm of clearance to get the wheel off the studs! Sarah's Kluger is the same, as it has an ungodly amount of droop available in the suspension and a distinct lack of good jacking points!
    • Happy? Yep, my to do list is getting shorter and shorter. Either this light approaching is the end of the tunnel, or I'm about to be hit by a train... Ha ha ha   Also, Duncan isn't that far out of town that you need to make a multi day drive out of it. 😛
×
×
  • Create New...