Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi Guys,

I know the getrag have been covered quite extensively, but so far i have not come across any threads that i can find on the issue.

Went to my mech to top up additional RP Synchromax of 1 ltre from the side ( the gearbox itself) as previously the supplier ran out of RP.

Driven the car for about 30 mins from my place to the workshop, mech jacks the car up and loosens the drain plug. He is absolutely surprised as to why the oil is draining out as previously he only filled in 1 litre in and it should not be draining out as the level of oil is only half ( He put his finger in and felt its half full)

As he previously have seen the GETRAG boxes opened up, he realized there is a connecting hole from the transfer case to the gearbox. Ie anything more than 2 litre that is filled from the gearstick, excesses will be flowed into the gearbox section.

Im just wondering if this is true ,and if anyone has completely drained all oils ( from transfer case and gearbox) and fill the full 4 ltrs of oil straigt into the gearstick. It was abit notchy before i reached there, but once the full 4 litres is filled in from the gearstick, i do realize gear change is very smooth.

Any similar experiences from you guys?

Thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/336888-filling-the-6-sp-getrag/
Share on other sites

i didnt know the gearbox shared the same oil, r34gtr i worked on recently has seperate fills. redline yellow in the box and redline aft in the transfer.....

the fact that both oils are probably red in your car, you could have no oil in the box.... and way to much in the transfer.

i didnt know the gearbox shared the same oil, r34gtr i worked on recently has seperate fills. redline yellow in the box and redline aft in the transfer.....

the fact that both oils are probably red in your car, you could have no oil in the box.... and way to much in the transfer.

Yeap, they share the same oil, to add to that, when we drain the oil from both gearbox and transfer case, they both had the exact same color and oil thickness(very subjective though). And yes the colors are red from factory.

If (currently) there is absolutely no oil in the gearbox, should i be experiencing a very notchy feeling?

Didnt fill in any oil from the side, all 4 litres is filled from gearstick, the connector hole will overflow the excess to the gearbox.

You 100% sure about that? the transfer should have auto-transmission fluid in it..

The transfer is using an ATF specification fluid, ie the RP Synchromax.

Just need to know if, filling via the gearstick really does overflow to the box and will overflow the right quantity.

You do realize, when you are filling through the gearstick with a GTR, you are filling the transfer case, not the gearbox as what would happen with a RWD skyline?

Also the notchyness can be attributed to not using the proper fluid for the Getrag box as it expects ATF fluid (V160 from Toyota, same as what used in the Supra's 6 speed Getrag) not a gear oil.

You do realize, when you are filling through the gearstick with a GTR, you are filling the transfer case, not the gearbox as what would happen with a RWD skyline?

Also the notchyness can be attributed to not using the proper fluid for the Getrag box as it expects ATF fluid (V160 from Toyota, same as what used in the Supra's 6 speed Getrag) not a gear oil.

Yes, i realize im filling the transfer case, and im sure the fluid is proper (RP Synchromax) and the notchiness is only prior to the oil change.

After the change, its smooth and alot better.

However, the issue to note here is if by filling the full 4 ltres in the gearstick, will that 2 litres be flowing over to the gearbox, as the mechanic have sworn when he opened up the gearbox, there is a connector hole between the transfer case and gearbox,

as already stated when filling through the shifter you are filling the transfer. there should be a seperate fill and drain for the box.

Yes, i realize im filling the transfer case, and im sure the fluid is proper (RP Synchromax) and the notchiness is only prior to the oil change.

After the change, its smooth and alot better.

However, the issue to note here is if by filling the full 4 ltres in the gearstick, will that 2 litres be flowing over to the gearbox, as the mechanic have sworn when he opened up the gearbox, there is a connector hole between the transfer case and gearbox,

just had the transfer case off the R32 GTR and it's completely sealed from the gearbox. There is a hole in the back of the box but it goes into the space between the box and the transfer case where the g'box oil lubricates the driveshaft connection in to the transfer case oil pump. This space is still sealed from the transfer case itself.

Here's a pic of the plate that separates the case from the box. The top hole has a seal and is for the striking rod, the one below has the oil pump for the transfer on the other side and the driveshaft from the box goes in here, the other is for the front drive shaft.

hope this helps

post-48345-1284585498_thumb.jpg

The transfer on this gearbox should be 2 sealed units separate from each other. Which is why they have 2 separate fill and drain plugs. There is no connector hole. They should have a breather on top of each unit

This is however a Getrag - different to our R32 / R33 5-speeds.

Seeing that is uses ATF instead in the gearbox instead of gear oil it is conceivable that the Getrag has a connection between the two.

Maybe PM someone like Snowman - I know he has dealt with the 6-speeds.

maybe the seals on one of those connecting holes is blown.

btw why did a "mechanic" put more than 2l of oil in a transfer case?

Thanks for the reply guys, when the mech tried to add in more oil at the side, (via the fill plug) oil is already leaking out, his explanation is that it shouldnt as previously when he opened the fill plug, the oil is still below the mark, it shouldnt leak out.

He put more than 2l of oil in the transfer case because he is under the impression that the oil will flow into the gearbox once the transfer is full.

He put more than 2l of oil in the transfer case because he is under the impression that the oil will flow into the gearbox once the transfer is full.

i think you'd want to know that he's absolutely 100% certain about these things, rather than "under the impression"

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Well, that's kinda the point. The calipers might interfere with the inside of the barrels 16" rims are only about 14" inside the barrels, which is ~350mm, and 334mm rotors only leave about 8mm outboard for the caliper before you get to 350, And.... that;s not gunna be enough. If the rims have a larger ID than that, you might sneak it in. I'd be putting a measuring stick inside the wheel and eyeballing the extra required for the caliper outboard of the rotor before committing to bolting it all on.
    • OK, so again it has been a bit of a break but it was around researching what had been done since I didn't have access to Neil's records and not everything is obvious without pulling stuff apart. Happily the guy who assembled the engine had kept reasonable records, so we now know the final spec is: Bottom end: Standard block and crank Ross 86.5mm forgies, 9:1 compression Spool forged rods Standard main bolts Oil pump Spool billet gears in standard housing Aeroflow extended and baffled sump Head Freshly rebuilt standard head with new 80lb valve springs Mild porting/port match Head oil feed restrictor VCT disabled Tighe 805C reground cams (255 duration, 8.93 lift)  Adjustable cam gears on inlet/exhaust Standard head bolts, gasket not confirmed but assumed MLS External 555cc Nismo injectors Z32 AFM Bosch 023 Intank fuel pump Garret 2871 (factory housings and manifold) Hypertune FFP plenum with standard throttle   Time to book in a trip to Unigroup
    • I forgot about my shiny new plates!
    • Well, apparently they do fit, however this wont be a problem if not because the car will be stationary while i do the suspension work. I was just going to use the 16's to roll the old girl around if I needed to. I just need to get the E90 back on the road first. Yes! I'm a believer! 🙌 So, I contacted them because the site kinda sucks and I was really confused about what I'd need. They put together a package for me and because I was spraying all the seat surfaces and not doing spot fixes I decided not to send them a headrest to colour match, I just used their colour on file (and it was spot on).  I got some heavy duty cleaner, 1L of colour, a small bottle of dye hardener and a small bottle of the dye top coat. I also got a spray gun as I needed a larger nozzle than the gun I had and it was only $40 extra. From memory the total was ~$450 ish. Its not cheap but the result is awesome. They did add repair bits and pieces to the quote originally and the cost came down significantly when I said I didn't need any repair products. I did it over a weekend. The only issues I had were my own; I forgot to mix the hardener into the dye two coats but I had enough dye for 2 more coats with the hardener. I also just used up all the dye because why not and i rushed the last coat which gave me some runs. Thankfully the runs are under the headrests. The gun pattern wasn't great, very round and would have been better if it was a line. It made it a little tricky to get consistent coverage and I think having done the extra coats probably helped conceal any coverage issues. I contacted them again a few months later so I could get our X5 done (who the f**k thought white leather was a good idea for a family car?!) and they said they had some training to do in Sydney and I could get a reduced rate on the leather fix in the X5 if I let them demo their product on our car. So I agreed. When I took Bec in the E39 to pick it up, I showed them the job I'd done in my car and they were all (students included) really impressed. Note that they said the runs I created could be fixed easily at the time with a brush or an air compressor gun. So, now with the two cars done I can absolutely recommend Colourlock.  I'll take pics of both interiors and create a new thread.
    • Power is fed to the ECU when the ignition switch is switched to IGN, at terminal 58. That same wire also connects to the ECCS relay to provide both the coil power and the contact side. When the ECU sees power at 58 it switches 16 to earth, which pulls the ECCS relay on, which feeds main power into the ECU and also to a bunch of other things. None of this is directly involved in the fuel pump - it just has to happen first. The ECU will pull terminal 18 to earth when it wants the fuel pump to run. This allows the fuel pump relay to pull in, which switches power on into the rest of the fuel pump control equipment. The fuel pump control regulator is controlled from terminal 104 on the ECU and is switched high or low depending on whether the ECU thinks the pump needs to run high or low. (I don't know which way around that is, and it really doesn't matter right now). The fuel pump control reg is really just a resistor that controls how the power through the pump goes to earth. Either straight to earth, or via the resistor. This part doesn't matter much to us today. The power to the fuel pump relay comes from one of the switched wires from the IGN switch and fusebox that is not shown off to the left of this page. That power runs the fuel pump relay coil and a number of other engine peripherals. Those peripherals don't really matter. All that matters is that there should be power available at the relay when the key is in the right position. At least - I think it's switched. If it's not switched, then power will be there all the time. Either way, if you don't have power there when you need it (ie, key on) then it won't work. The input-output switching side of the relay gains its power from a line similar (but not the same as) the one that feeds the ECU. SO I presume that is switched. Again, if there is not power there when you need it, then you have to look upstream. And... the upshot of all that? There is no "ground" at the fuel pump relay. Where you say: and say that pin 1 Black/Pink is ground, that is not true. The ECU trigger is AF73, is black/pink, and is the "ground". When the ECU says it is. The Blue/White wire is the "constant" 12V to power the relay's coil. And when I say "constant", I mean it may well only be on when the key is on. As I said above. So, when the ECU says not to be running the pump (which is any time after about 3s of switching on, with no crank signal or engine speed yet), then you should see 12V at both 1 and 2. Because the 12V will be all the way up to the ECU terminal 18, waiting to be switched to ground. When the ECU switches the fuel pump on, then AF73 should go to ~0V, having been switched to ground and the voltage drop now occurring over the relay coil. 3 & 5 are easy. 5 is the other "constant" 12V, that may or may not be constant but will very much want to be there when the key is on. Same as above. 3 goes to the pump. There should never be 12V visible at 3 unless the relay is pulled in. As to where the immobiliser might have been spliced into all this.... It will either have to be on wire AF70 or AF71, whichever is most accessible near the alarm. Given that all those wires run from the engine bay fusebox or the ECU, via the driver's area to the rear of the car, it could really be either. AF70 will be the same colour from the appropriate fuse all the way to the pump. If it has been cut and is dangling, you should be able to see that  in that area somewhere. Same with AF71.   You really should be able to force the pump to run. Just jump 12V onto AF72 and it should go. That will prove that the pump itself is willing to go along with you when you sort out the upstream. You really should be able to force the fuel pump relay on. Just short AF73 to earth when the key is on. If the pump runs, then the relay is fine, and all the power up to both inputs on the relay is fine. If it doesn't run (and given that you checked the relay itself actually works) then one or both of AF70 and AF71 are not bringing power to the game.
×
×
  • Create New...