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hey guys, just wondering what oils people are useing these days in there RB's?

iv been useing Motul turbo light for a few years now. but its been getting abit Pricey.. the only place i can find it is at Auto barn.. and i hate going to auto barn! where eles can you buy it from?

what oils are you guys useing? iv hurd some good things about Penrite HPR 15-60. how would that compare to Motul turbo light? better worse?

whats every one useing?

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im very aware of that thred.. it started on... 12 Aug 2003, 03:31 PM kinda out dated

my questions are different. i change oil so often cuz of track work. and im not about to be buying Motul v300 for the stupid price they charge for it.

are there any other places to buy motul on the Gold Coast? its up around 70 dollars now.. it used to be so cheap! thats y i want to know if other oils which are cheaper like the penrite HPR 15-60. perform just the same and are of same quality and not so harsh on the wallet.

Start from the back of the thread and read newest to oldest. One word, Sougi S6000 ($60 per 5l) or something comparable to Turbolight that's cheaper, Sougi M5000 ($30-35ish per 5l, im not 100% sure on the price). You will understand when you read the thread.

i dont feel in our old engines that 100% synthetic is needed. and if you change your oil as often as i do, its still gold when i change it. need to find a good oil thats not anymore then $10Ltr

Mobil Synthetic S 10W 40 hows that stand next to Mutols Turbo light and HPR 15-60 any one know? sounds good at less then $10 a Ltr..

i think motul products would be cheaper, if more people stocked it.. but like i said Autobarn is the only place i can find it.. and every one uses it so they mark it up!

thanks for the input keep it coming =)

From what I understand of the rules in Australia, an oil only has to be minimum 75% synthetic to be allowed to market it as a fully synthetic oil. Turbolight (group III) is actually over 75% synthetic, but since it's packaged in Europe it's labelled semi-synth as such (different rules in Europe).

Nulon full synthetic isn't 100% synthetic, it's a group III oil (maybe group III/IV blend at best), it just qualifies to be marketed as a full synth as such. I can't comment on the other oils that have been mentioned here.

HPR 15-60 is too thick for a RB unless it has massive oil leaks and blowby problems, the 60 rating is too thick, even the cold rating 15w is too thick. Stick with something 0w-40, 5w-40, 10w-40

Giving Fuchs a try this oil change.

$38 for 5L, Super GTO 10W40.

iv never hurd of it.. where can you buy it from?

From what I understand of the rules in Australia, an oil only has to be minimum 75% synthetic to be allowed to market it as a fully synthetic oil. Turbolight (group III) is actually over 75% synthetic, but since it's packaged in Europe it's labelled semi-synth as such (different rules in Europe).

Nulon full synthetic isn't 100% synthetic, it's a group III oil (maybe group III/IV blend at best), it just qualifies to be marketed as a full synth as such. I can't comment on the other oils that have been mentioned here.

HPR 15-60 is too thick for a RB unless it has massive oil leaks and blowby problems, the 60 rating is too thick, even the cold rating 15w is too thick. Stick with something 0w-40, 5w-40, 10w-40

thats pretty interesting. no oil leaks or blow by in my RB25.. so basically stick to a 5w-40 10w-40max.. just wondering tho australian temps are alot hotter then say Europe wouldnt this mean the higher hot rating would be better? not so much the cold rateing.. i have seen my oil temps at 120c before on track..

i might check out some Mobil Synthetic S 10W 40 seems cheaper then turbo light same temp rating. and Mobil one is European to isnt it? so im guessing its over 75%?

yes iv hurd motul 300v is great but super expensive i like to change oil after every track event! trying to find something mid range price and bang for buck!

so far i like the sound of

for the 30 - 50 dollar price range:

Mobil Synthetic S 10W - 40

Penrite HPR 5 Semi-synthetic 5w - 40

Penzoil GT performance semi-synthetic 10w - 40

60 - 80 dollar price range:

Royal Purple Multi 10w - 40 (fully synthetic???) - if i had the money to buy this all the time i prob would!

Penrite synthetic 5w - 60

wow i just found this on the internet... very interesting!! tell me what you think!

http://www.animegame.com/cars/Oil%20Tests.pdf

I've read it before, take it with a grain of salt. The testing method is meant for grease not engine oils ( read the reply by the redline rep: http://forums.noria.com/eve/forums/a/tpc/f...95/m/8381065241 ). Street Commodores actually retracted that article and apologized. By all means destroy your engine using that article's recommendation if you wish.

OP, your question still could have been posted in the oil thread as many people do ask for recommendations in there. The information is not outdated either, if you follow the latest incantations you'll find very relevant information in there.

i dont feel in our old engines that 100% synthetic is needed. and if you change your oil as often as i do, its still gold when i change it. need to find a good oil thats not anymore then $10Ltr

Mobil Synthetic S 10W 40 hows that stand next to Mutols Turbo light and HPR 15-60 any one know? sounds good at less then $10 a Ltr..

i think motul products would be cheaper, if more people stocked it.. but like i said Autobarn is the only place i can find it.. and every one uses it so they mark it up!

thanks for the input keep it coming =)

Oil being gold when you change it is not necessarily a good thing. If an oil doesn't come out dark when you change it, after having done a few thousand km, then it's not really doing its secondary job of cleaning the engine too, only lubricating it. Particularly in "our old engines" where carbon build up is common and engine seals (piston rings etc.) will be slightly worn, you want an oil that can stand up to the pollution.

Age of an engine does not negate the benefits of a synthetic oil. Being synthetic has more to do with service interval lengths, additive packages and achievable viscosity spectrum. What you are better off doing, is investing in a good fully synthetic oil and drawing out the service interval, as fully synthetic oils allow for this. The rule of thumb is twice the interval of a mineral oil. So not only are you putting in a better oil with better additives, but you are getting twice the service interval, which if you account for two mineral oil changes...works out to be around the same cost.

Whatever you purchase, stick within the confines of the 0w/5w/10w 40 range and your engine will be happy. I do recommend reading the oil thread though, as it will give you a god understanding of why a 10w40 and a 15w60 shouldn't be compared.

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