Jump to content
SAU Community

Anyone Else Get A Big Shudder Under Braking?

lilcrash

By lilcrash,
in Four Door Family & Wagoneers

 Share

Recommended Posts

lilcrash Veteran

lilcrash

Posted
Posted

i just got all my front end bushes replaced by fulcrum, when he handed me my keys he said that there was a vibration above 60km/h when your cruising along, he also said he thought it was my tyres or mayb my brake discs. i have swapped the brake discs with some other ones i had here and the vibration is still there and there is a very bad shudder when you touch the brakes above 80km/h. could it be my abs stuffing up??, or my power steering??

thanks for any info

KiwiRS4T Grand Master

KiwiRS4T

Posted
Posted

Did this problem exist before the bushes were replaced? Is everything bolted up properly?

Doubt it would be the abs or power steering. To eliminate the abs you could pull the fuse and retry. Had the wheels balanced lately? Jack up the front and check for wheel bearing play.

Do you have access to a lathe where you could measure run out on the rotors? Stockers can easily get warped with hard use. Try cleaning up the pads and ensuring there is a chamfer on the leading edge.

lilcrash Veteran

lilcrash

Posted
  • Author
Posted

i cant remember if it was there before the bushes, the wheel bearing was the original reason i put it in to fulcrum, they just found lots of bent things when they were looking so i got it all replaced. tyres were replaced and balanced 2 days before the front end got re done. there is a bit of movement in the steering rack though. i could probably spin the rotors at work.

actually i just thought something. when i first noticed the shudder it was while i was heavily braking from 180 to 40 to go around a corner, can the discs have warped that easily?? doesnt solve the constant vibration but would explain the braking part.

Dunc Mentor

Dunc

Posted
Posted
. when i first noticed the shudder it was while i was heavily braking from 180 to 40 to go around a corner

That sounds to me like it could well have been ABS, not sure about the rest of it

RubyRS4 Grand Master

RubyRS4

Posted
Posted
I was hoping it would be something simple. I think I might take my cracked discs in and get a price on some stronger replacements. Thanks every one :)

I would say check out your tie rod ends. If you've not replaced them recently, I can guarantee it would be them. Would explain the bit of play you say you have in the steering rack.

:)

  • 1 year later...
Aps Contributor

Aps

Posted
Posted

Quick question , slight vibration on down hill braking 70-100 ks also bit of pulsing on slower breaking up to a stop . Would this likely to be disk issues or wheel align tie rod ends or all the above ? Stegea 01 rs 4 turb

  • 3 weeks later...
Aps Contributor

Aps

Posted
Posted

Just did a run up and down green hill rd with the fam , and the pulsing under brakes is very prominent now really not good , going in tomorrow to have a chat about getting it sorted anyone got a rough est on what I should b paying for machinig discs etc also would this possibly b a abs issue thanks for any feed back.

scotty nm35 Grand Master

scotty nm35

Posted
Posted

New disks required Aps, probably best to upgrade now to the r32gtr sumitomo's for the extra 10mm disk thickness, these barges are well under-braked and the disks pay the price.

Aps Contributor

Aps

Posted
Posted

What's the going rate for replacement discs comp to the upgrade , this car is not driven hard on a regular basis so I'm not sure if it's worth it . You guys are clearly experts on these cars what do you think , also 4wd light comes on intermittently , service due very soon hopefully get these issues sorted . .

bigkevracer Grand Master

bigkevracer

Posted
Posted

If it's just a road car and not driven that hard, I'd look at either RDA or DBA rotors. I have DBA 4000 series and they're excellent, and DBA have just released a new T2 street series that might be worth getting a price on?

PM GSLRallysport, a forum trader, and Greg will help you out.

pomnz Enthusiast

pomnz

Posted
Posted

I had aps problem and replaced front discs and pads and that made it alot better. I can still feel a slight pulsing especially under light braking, does this mean the rears also need doing? Car has hicas if that makes a difference?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      But first....while I was there, I also swapped across the centre console box for the other style where the AV inputs don't intrude into the (very limited !) space.  Part# was 96926-4GA0A, 284H3-4GA0B, 284H3-4GA0A. (I've already swapped the top 12v socket for a USB bulkhead in this pic, it fit the hole without modification:) Comparison of the 2: Basically to do the console you need to remove the DS and PS side console trim (they slide up and back, held in by clips only) Then remove the back half of the console top trim with the cupholders, pops up, all clips again but be careful at the front as it is pretty flimsy. Then slide the shifter boot down, remove the spring clip, loose it forever somewhere in the car the pull the shift knob off. Remove the tiny plastic piece on DS near "P" and use something thin and long (most screwdrivers won't fit) to push down the interlock and put the shifter down in D for space. There is one screw at the front, then the shifter surround and ashtray lift up. There are 3 or 4 plugs underneath and it is off. Next is the rear cover of the centre console; you need to open the console lid, pop off the trim covering the lid hinge and undo the 2rd screw from the driver's side (the rest all need to come out later so you can do them all now and remove the lid) Then the rear cover unclips (6 clips), start at the top with a trim tool pulling backwards. Once it is off there are 2 screws facing rearwards to remove (need a short phillips for these) and you are done with the rear of the console. There are 4 plugs at the A/V box to unclip Then there are 2 screws at the front of the console, and 2 clips (pull up and back) and the console will come out.
×
×
  • Create New...