Jump to content
SAU Community

Exhaust Installtion Prices Question

Ezy03

By Ezy03,
in New South Wales

 Share

Recommended Posts

Ezy03 Experienced

Ezy03

Posted
Posted

hey for those who have bought and installed a exhaust system on there skyline im sort of interested in getting one but just need to ask in general how much it cost you to put the system onto the car (how much the mech charged), cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/337743-exhaust-installtion-prices-question/
Share on other sites
sqr47 Apprentice

sqr47

Posted
Posted

Done this many a time now.

Jack the car up, undo all bolts from turbo back. I had old one off and new one on within the hour.

Be careful where you go if you choose to go the mechanic route, I had an estimated quote of 3hrs labor at $110 per hour to fit a turbo back exhaust!!

If you've got the tools and a free afternoon save yourself the cash :D

EDIT: Cass, fit my exhaust to your car already, want to see how it goes for you ! :)

Cassbo Grand Master

Cassbo

Posted
Posted
EDIT: Cass, fit my exhaust to your car already, want to see how it goes for you ! ;)

Need to find some gaskets first. I'm not like my brother and can tolerate driving around without exhaust gaskets for any longer than the time it takes me to drive around the block :(

nuclear_skyline Mentor

nuclear_skyline

Posted
Posted
Cat-back? Turbo-back?

If it's cat-back it's quite easy to do...

Agree. I put a new cat and a cat-back exhaust onto my gtr whilst it was on the ground in 30mins... Couldnt be arsed jacking it up :blink:

I did a full dump, cat and cat back on my r33 gtst in about 2 hours including time for the WD40 to sink in on the studs.

Cost - nothing! Did it myself without much pain :P

MBS206 Grand Master

MBS206

Posted
Posted
Need to find some gaskets first. I'm not like my brother and can tolerate driving around without exhaust gaskets for any longer than the time it takes me to drive around the block :)

Exhaust gasket cement.

Cassbo Grand Master

Cassbo

Posted
Posted
um lols. i just cleaned the metal between the rear muffler and the piping forward and whacked it back together.

fiiiiine i'll get some cement and do it properlike

Using the theory that a leaking exhaust flows better than one with no leaks? :blink:

Kujotk Grand Master

Kujotk

Posted
Posted

I used gaskets and cement, but originally when I installed it with AbboBob (ex SAU president), he said you can get away with vasalene if the exhausts fit up close enough, the vasalene will attract some of the carbon from the exhaust, the vasalene will then pull the carbon into any depresions and keep a hole sealed up (assuming it is only a small hole).

It worked for a year, untill I was bored and randomly decided to cement it up, I was skeptical at first but it worked for a year that I know of.

Best to do it properly though from the beginning, a good job will save you time in the long run

Kujotk Grand Master

Kujotk

Posted
Posted
Call an exhaust shop.. Tell them what your interested in.. Get a price.. done..

YUp this is the easiest, and sometimes even the cheaper alternative, especially when you break the dump pipe/turbo exhaust flange bolts in the turbo flange and depending how unlucky you are you could be up for a turbo out job just to be able to drill the bolts out

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Haggerty
      RB25DE NEO with Haltech ECU

      By Haggerty · Posted

      I guess one thing that might be wrong is the manifold pressure.  It is a constant -5.9 and never moves even under 100% throttle and load.  I would expect it to atleast go to 0 correct?  It's doing this with the OEM MAP as well as the ECU vacuum sensor. When trying to tune the base map under load the crosshairs only climb vertically with RPM, but always in the -5.9 column.
    • CF.Panda
      R34 25GT Engine Light 21

      By CF.Panda · Posted

      AHHHH gotchaa, I'll do that once I am home again. I tried doing the harness with the multimeter but it seems the car needed a jump, there was no power when it was in the "ON" position. Not sure if I should use car battery jump starter or if its because the stuff that has been disconnect the car just does send power.
    • Haggerty
      RB25DE NEO with Haltech ECU

      By Haggerty · Posted

      As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
    • AnimalGarage
      spot the stagea

      By AnimalGarage · Posted

      It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
    • GTSBoy
      R34 Handbrake light saying ON and intermittently flashing

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Probably not. A workshop grade scantool is my go to for proper Consult interrogation. Any workshop grade tool should do it. Just go to a workshop.
×
×
  • Create New...