Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I'm thinking of getting an oil filter relocation kit so it will make it way easier for me to change the filter when I do oil changes.

However I wanted to know if there were any downsides of having it? Would oil pressure be effected?

Also for those who have it, what kit/brand did you buy and how much did it you pay?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/337845-oil-filter-relocation-kit/
Share on other sites

Why? it's really easy to do compared to most performance cars. You should see my mates soarer, and I think the 300zx's are pretty hard too. I know it's a little tricky to get some good force down there to take it off but there are plenty of tools which attach to a ratchet to help with that. In terms of effort, it is certainly a lot easier than geting under the car to undo the sump plug.

Also many aftermarket filters (drift, k&n) have a socket fitting which makes the job infinitely easier and saves a bit of knuckle scuffing.

Just my thoughts, but there are so many upgrades which are worth spending the money on before something like that.

I'm thinking of getting an oil filter relocation kit so it will make it way easier for me to change the filter when I do oil changes.

However I wanted to know if there were any downsides of having it? Would oil pressure be effected?

Also for those who have it, what kit/brand did you buy and how much did it you pay?

Best servicing mod you can do. Any GTR owner will agree.

GREX kit here, $185 delivered, works great, makes filter changes so much easier.

There's one for sale by elrodeo666 in the for sale section right now.

Thanks N1GTR, I'll have a look and see.

And yes, the GTR's oil filter is in a real bullshit position to get to. My GTR is a daily driver, so doing a oil change every 5000km's is going to be a regular thing for me so want to make it easier.

+1 on the relocation kit for my stagea, it originally sits in the biggest bullcrap position ever, cant do it from underneath because the front diff and driveshaft are in the way, cant do it from the top because everything else is in the way. you can pull it off by hand with a bit of effort, but the oil spills over your front diff is horrendous even when you try to cover it all up.

I'm thinking of getting an oil filter relocation kit so it will make it way easier for me to change the filter when I do oil changes.

However I wanted to know if there were any downsides of having it? Would oil pressure be effected?

Also for those who have it, what kit/brand did you buy and how much did it you pay?

Fitted a J/J relocation/cooler kit to a 33 GTSt.

No noticeable change to oil pressure.

Not the best product, but it's cheap.

There's better, more expensive gear available and that's what I'll be fitting.

So much has to be removed to fit the adaptor, you want it perfect first time.

If you can't remove the oil filter by hand then you have used too much torque when you put it on in the first place.

It is a pretty common mistake that people make.

I only ever do mine up hand-tight and always need to use a tool for removal, probably because the engine and oil is all warmer when I take it off

Edited by Galois

Is the oil filter on the driver's side, middlish area of the block, sort of under the intake plenum? or is that just 25s? I was thinking about one too as the only problem I have is because it is horizontal I pull it out and try to keep it as vertical as possible but always get couple 100ml of oil spilt.

I also only do them up hand tight and can ALWAYS get them off hand tight... another little tip when putting them on... take a small amount of oil on your finger and just run it around the edge of the filter before you put the new one on... you can tighten it in further by hand and remove it easier later on.

Thanks for all the replies. Good to know I'm not the only one who feels the same about their GTR filter location :D

Looked on JustJap...

The GREX/Trust kit looks great. $389.00. Also the Cooling-Pro kit with the 7 row oil cooler is the same price. Hmmm...

I'm assuming the GREX/Trust kit would be higher quality? Is it worth the extra hassle installing the Cooling-Pro kit?

I don't usually cheap out on quality, so if GREX is better I'll settle for it. Besides, my oil temp always sits between 80 - 90°C so I'm guessing that's fine?

Best servicing mod you can do. Any GTR owner will agree.

GREX kit here, $185 delivered, works great, makes filter changes so much easier.

There's one for sale by elrodeo666 in the for sale section right now.

Found elrodeo666's 2nd hand GREX kit for $170 delivered, but looks like he's already sold it... Gutted :)

Where did you get yours for $185?

Sorry if I'm rambling btw lol :P

Thanks for all the replies. Good to know I'm not the only one who feels the same about their GTR filter location :D

Looked on JustJap...

The GREX/Trust kit looks great. $389.00. Also the Cooling-Pro kit with the 7 row oil cooler is the same price. Hmmm...

I'm assuming the GREX/Trust kit would be higher quality? Is it worth the extra hassle installing the Cooling-Pro kit?

I don't usually cheap out on quality, so if GREX is better I'll settle for it. Besides, my oil temp always sits between 80 - 90°C so I'm guessing that's fine?

Found elrodeo666's 2nd hand GREX kit for $170 delivered, but looks like he's already sold it... Gutted :)

Where did you get yours for $185?

Sorry if I'm rambling btw lol :P

Got it from a guy who was stripping his car. Best bet is to send elrodeo666 a PM to make sure it's sold, that would be my first move. Then if that's no go, then I'd keep a very keen eye on the forums for one coming up and jump on it. Don't spend $389 on one

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Nah, OEM washer bottle and brake fluid reservoirs are fine I don't know what it is with the plastic that Mazda used, some plastics, like the washer bottle and brake fluid res are fine, and still look new after 20 years use, where as the coolant expansion tank, and PS reservoir, that I replaced with new OEM items when I first got the car, turned yellow and started getting brittle a few years later If the dirty yellow stained plastics didn't trigger me there wouldn't be an issue, but they did, much like the battery bracket....... Meh As for going back to work full time to support car stuff, nope, why, because I own a Mazda NC MX5, not a Nissan R series Skyline 🤣
    • I've never heard of CJ-motor, so can't advise you on them. I'd just go straight to GCG for a GCG highflow though. Seems no point to use a middleman. I'm somewhat surprised that the price on the CJ site is lower than the GCG retail price. Even though CJ would get a discount of some sort, you would hardly expect them to give up so much margin. Maybe the price is out of date? Having said that "I'd go to GCG"...when I did my highflow, I went to Hypergear. I did this https://hypergearturbos.com/product/rb25dethighflow/#tab-dyno-results with the R34 OP6 450HP profile. With the BB centre (extra $400) and intially with the standard boost actuator, but I eventually got him to send me the high pressure one when I got to the point of being able to actually use it. Ends up costing the same sort of money as the GCG highflow, but this is, of course, the turbo that I KNOW has a shorter length core and so moves the comp cover rearwards. The GCG apparently doesn't do that. My mechanic also swears by the GCG highflow, given that we have another turbo rebuilder who does something essentialy the same as theirs, using Garrett wheels. He says it stands up at really low revs and makes good power. I haven't pushed my HG highflow past ~240-250rwkW yet (should have a little more in it, but unclear how much) and it does have a fairly gentle boost ramp. OK, it's much better now that I have gotten my boost controller tuned up on it.  A lot of my earlier unhappiness was because I couldn't keep the wastegate flap as closed as it needed to be (including some mechanical issues). I'd still prefer it to boost up nearly as quickly as the stocker, and it certainly a bit slower than that. So maybe the GCG one is worth the first look (for you).
    • Ok thanks 🙂 I will higly consider this. Any "known" company for a good reviews and experience to send that off? Is that CJ-motor good one? Or go straight to GCG site? I need to use VPN to even find some of those "shops" let alone access them 🙂 
    • You can literally put in as much WMI as it takes to quench the combustion totally (and then back it off a little, obviously), and it will keep making more and more power. The power comes from the cooling effect of the water (and the meth) and the extra fuel (the meth, which also has massive octane). It is effectively exactly like running E85. One might be slightly better than the other, but they are damn close. But with either you can lean on the boost or the timing (or both) waaaay more than with just petrol and the results are similar. Here's the first thing I googled for an anecdotal bit of evidence. Can't access the attachment without being a gold member, but it is there for the getting if able to, or searched up elsewise perhaps. https://www.hpacademy.com/forum/general-tuning-discussion/show/wmi-vs-e85/
    • Dang, those BBS are so nice! 
×
×
  • Create New...