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Any Engineers On Here?

Stagea_Neo

By Stagea_Neo,
in Four Door Family & Wagoneers

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Stagea_Neo Experienced

Stagea_Neo

Posted
Posted

Hey All,

Found out Tein use the code edc01-f1135 on the m10, 12, m14 motors (old style) in my searches.

I got the kit EDFCEDK01_12120 ... was sure i read the catalogue right .....guess not.

I need m10 motors.

To the engineers out there how would i go making a threaded sleeved tube.

metal/alloy/heat resistant nylon?

Have I seen a spring type sleeve for this type of job in my travels or am i dreamin?

Inside m10 1.25 thread on the inside and on the outside m12 1.25 thread, 10mm long approx?

(something like this pic)

Fancy my chances with a tap and die set?

post-38314-1285513537_thumb.jpg

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KiwiRS4T Grand Master

KiwiRS4T

Posted
Posted

I am sure it would be possible to make something like that but its not clear what you want it for. According to this site you can buy M10, M12 or M14:

http://www.tein.com/online_shop/wrench.html

scotty nm35 Grand Master

scotty nm35

Posted
Posted

I assume he got the wrong motor thread. Perhaps you could find someone that wants that one?

Would a helicoil work? Im not sure you could make it from solid, not enough meat left...

Can you take a photo of the motor?

DeanR33 Enthusiast

DeanR33

Posted
Posted

Piece of aluminium bar slightly longer than the required thread length. Ideally in a lathe, run a die down the outside then bore the centre and tap, and part off to required length.

If you don't have a lathe (probably the case) you will at least need a pillar drill and a decent vice to hold the bar vertical and do it that way.

I can dig out my charts and find the drill size for the bore and the outer diameter for the thread on there if you need em, It's been a while since I used them.

Gonna be pretty thin wall so you will have to be careful.

66yostagea Grand Master

66yostagea

Posted
Posted
Piece of aluminium bar slightly longer than the required thread length. Ideally in a lathe, run a die down the outside then bore the centre and tap, and part off to required length.

If you don't have a lathe (probably the case) you will at least need a pillar drill and a decent vice to hold the bar vertical and do it that way.

I can dig out my charts and find the drill size for the bore and the outer diameter for the thread on there if you need em, It's been a while since I used them.

Gonna be pretty thin wall so you will have to be careful.

Google "Metric thread drill sizes" and all the info is there. In fact it will give what ever type of thread you type in. Very handy.

I would go to a local small workshop and get them to make.

QWK32 Veteran

QWK32

Posted
Posted (edited)

easiest thing would be to see if you get exchange them for the right ones. if not one thing would be to just drill and tap a piece of threaded bar or even a bolt if your only after something 10mm long. it would definitely have to be done in the lathe though, with those thred sizes you only leaving yourself about 0.4mm wall thickness between the threads. i wouldn't use alloy, use mild steel or even stainless if you keen. are these the little motors that adjust the damper from in the cabin? if you want i could spin one up in the lathe tomorrow at work and see how it looks.

Edited by QWK32
Daleo Grand Master

Daleo

Posted
Posted
my first thought was helicoil

Helicoil only has std thread dia on inside. You tap thread for Helicoil with dedicated Helicoil tap, not the next size larger tap of the same thread pitch.

Stinky Rooster Grand Master

Stinky Rooster

Posted
Posted
easiest thing would be to see if you get exchange them for the right ones. if not one thing would be to just drill and tap a piece of threaded bar or even a bolt if your only after something 10mm long. it would definitely have to be done in the lathe though, with those thread sizes you only leaving yourself about 0.4mm wall thickness between the threads. i wouldn't use alloy, use mild steel or even stainless if you keen. are these the little motors that adjust the damper from in the cabin? if you want i could spin one up in the lathe tomorrow at work and see how it looks.

/thread

geddit?

Srsly, anything soft enough to have a thread cut into it at that thickness will strip as soon as any weight is put against it. Helicoils (which are made from high carbon steel) are at leat 1.5mm thick.

Stagea_Neo Experienced

Stagea_Neo

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

Thanks for all the feedback.

Thanks Kiwi but I already have the motors.

Lookn to swap, maybe swap/pay difference for another set.

Scotty M35, spot on. Lookn to swap or possibly buy another set of motors in m10 thread. (photo's attached)

Helicoil, not sure heard of it cant remember if i seen one. Got a pic?

DeanR33, Qwk32 and Pipster11, was thinking along those lines, maybe start with a harden/high tensile steel blank.

Qwk32, thanks for the offer, hold off on doing a prototype, don't want to waste your time.

But still may take up that offer.

Daleo, im not sure on helicoil, see my query above to Scotty M35.

Stinky Rooster, could you please clarify, helicoil good/bad in your opinion?

Carbon steel at that small diameter/thickness is it prone to snapping/cracking at the measurements i've quoted?

The motor is 200g, then multiply the gforces/vibrations a car experiences.... i dunno the math, but it have to be strong.

I only got a wood turning lathe & wood drill press.

Been meaning to buy a mini steel lathe for stuff like this.

Cheers,

Pete

post-38314-1285678877_thumb.jpg

post-38314-1285678894_thumb.jpg

Edited by Stagea_Neo
QWK32 Veteran

QWK32

Posted
Posted

The problem with using a helicoil is that even though it shares the same thread pitch, the tap for a M10x1.25 recoil is not the same as a M12x1.25 thread. The only thing they share is the pitch. The tapping hole is smaller by about 0.5mm and hense the tap also has a smaller diameter. This is so when you screw in the recoil it shrinks/compresses into the hole so it won't easily come back out. A recoil not screwed into the hole is a really loose fit onto the thread it's designed for, about 0.5mm. Its only once it is screwed into the tapped hole it becomes a good fit.

You won't get this same compression of the recoil putting it in a M12x1.25 hole and therefore it will be a sloppy fit onto the M10x1.25 thread, and I'd say it won't even lock down tight enough before jumping on the thread.

Stinky Rooster Grand Master

Stinky Rooster

Posted
Posted

a helicoil is a bad idea, because using a m10 helicoil would require the hole to be drilled out to 10.3mm (refer here - http://www.thorintl.com/Drill-Sizes-HeliCoils-Metric.htm )

As the hole is currently threaded for an M12 thread, it has a major root diamater of 12mm (refer here - http://www.newmantools.com/tech/threadm.htm ) ie, once you have removed the internal 12mm thread, which you would have to do, wether to use a helicoil or any other type of sleeve, the hole you are left with is already too big.

You "could" bore the motor right out to, say M16, and make a treaded sleeve up with an M16 male thread and an M10 female thread (by the pic it looks like you would have enough meat to do it) but that seems like a hell of a lot of work to me :)

Stagea_Neo Experienced

Stagea_Neo

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Thanks Scotty M35 for the pic. :)

So helicoil is what i was thinking i have seen before.

re my comments in first post.

"Have I seen a spring type sleeve for this type of job in my travels or am i dreamin?"

...................................

Thanks Stinky Rooster for clarifying.

I'll re-read those links/tables again to make sure I understand correctly.

Yeah would be fair bit of work to achieve what im after.

..................................

Lachlanw, thanks for putting a smile on my face, but nahhh, im a neat freak no glue. :(

..................................

What i think I will do first, is test fit a helicoil and see what the result is.

(seems the quickest/cheapest option to try/test)

Then look at the sleeve option if it's viable.

But probably back to the auctions for a set of four.

(p.s. there some tin ring in japan that keeps selling one at a time on the auctions....spewin...wish they just sell the set!)

here's a pic of the strut top im attaching the motor to.

post-38314-1285754909_thumb.jpg

scotty nm35 Grand Master

scotty nm35

Posted
Posted

I would suggest, if you plan to try the helicoil, one of the thicker loctites like 243. it may hold well enough, if not get one of us guys with a lathe to tap an m10 thread in some m12 all thread...

How much force does it take to adjust it?

Stagea_Neo Experienced

Stagea_Neo

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

Sweet FA to adjust with the finger tips.

Then when you take of the little adjuster at the top which has a stepping adjustment/click.

Replace it with little grub screw/hex head which pushes down on the dampening pin/rod,

the movement is free for the motor to adjust.

You can turn the grub screw with one finger.

Edited by Stagea_Neo

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