Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Well the time has come it appears to pull the engine - mostly to do the upgrades but also to do my starter motor. We had the car up on the hoist yesterday and holy god is it a tangle of lines and hardware!

From those who have pulled these engines is there any major tricks to getting at things like the starter motor top bolt? Best accessible by taking the oil filter off and getting at it through there? Any hints/tips about the task as a whole would be greatly appreciated. I'm sure we'd get there in the end but having some hints would make like easier as its not exactly like pulling my 240z engine or mini engines... Mini engine out in 25 mins :blink: This will take much longer I fear...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/338454-pulling-rb26-from-bnr32/
Share on other sites

Yer drop from the bottom. Its easier. All plumbing to the turbos will need to be removed so the engine can drop down in between the chassis rails. A couple of power steering lines will also need to be disconnected from the kframe.

Starter motor top bolt needs 14mm short socket, wobbly drive and extensions. Yes they are a pain to do but you can do it with the right tools.

Will the engine with the turbos and plenum attached fit through the chassis rails? Thats where I thought we'd get hung up... I did have a look at doing it this way but thought it would be a real tight squeeze / not fit through...

Took mine out/ and put it in always through the top, can't do much else in the driveway.

I have taken it out with the gearbox and without, now i tie the box to the roll cage and just push it back a bit leaving it in the car.

much easier to do if you pull turbos off. I can lend you the manual if you want too. I also have an attatchment for the crane which allows you to tilt easily but you lose a bit of height so depends on the crane.

If you drop the gearbox crossmember and tilt the engine back you can more easily get at the starter bolts, i just did it with a ring spanner. Just watch the dumps on the other side

post-26632-1285656411_thumb.jpg

post-26632-1285656402_thumb.jpg

post-26632-1285656396_thumb.jpg

Cheers Jeff. Thanks for the offer of tools but I think i'll have that one covered - might hit you up for the manual though :P Is yours electronic or hardcopy?

Confirms a few things. I want to pull the box anyway to fix a couple of noisy bearings in it so should be a good time had by all on the day its coming out. Now re-booked in for the 11th Oct. Just after the cruise... Might need a hand clutch starting the bugger if it doesnt work on the day :blink:

ive pulled 3 out, one with the gearbox attached,

took around 3 hours.

have to take out the driver CV joint and it just likes to catch on the metal lines above it,prise it off. thats all!

make sure you undo both nuts on the engine mounts (found this easier)

i just undid the front pipes, had no issues with the turbos with dumps still connected.

God bless my HR31 engine bay, no ABS etc room amore :happy:

Its funny you know - I always looked at the engine in the car and went "The Japs were awesome to build this and fit it all in..." Now I look at it and curse!

With my 70 Cooper S I can get the engine out in 20-30mins and 30-40 back in and running. This will be a nightmare comparitively. Swapsies?

Oh it still takes me just as long - i have issues with RB25 gearbox in a HR31 shell so it's gotta be dropped from the bottom...

Still a cvnt load easier.

But yes, definately easier to go from the bottom IMO.

It can be done from the top as well though, just more time consuming and careful leaverage when the motor is on the crane to get it over the rad support etc.

we used to do all of them by dropping it down, far easier and quicker. Think i have some pics somewhere. Becomes a 2hr operation instead of a 3-4hr head fck.

Thanks Trent. Some pics would be great. More info I have before I drop it, better it will go.... Can't wait to throw the goodies i've bought on!

what issues? sure the tunnell cops a bit of a beating but it comes out the top easily enough

I bet you don't have a fully seam welded engined bay thats been filled & painted in most area's :P

Gotta be veeeery careful :happy:

Ive done both ways and I reckon top out is better.

Sure it comes out the bottom way in 2 hours BUT then you gotta remove the engine and box off of the k frame, put k frame back in to get the car mobile, disconnect suspensions etc etc. I know you have to do at least the drivers side, but still....

Once you get the intake piping and cooler piping and radiator out, theres plenty of room.

Drop the box xmember down to get the top bellhousing bolts then put it back up.

A ratchet spanner is your friend for the top starter bolt.

Each to their own.

Try both ways...good practice :happy:

I bet you don't have a fully seam welded engined bay thats been filled & painted in most area's :wub:

Gotta be veeeery careful :)

yer that wouldnt help

white engine bay with lots of black decoration (grime n shit) makes it easier not to care :)

drop sub frame down to the last threads on the bolts

put the driverside shaft out

reef it out the top 3 hours tops with two poeple( will take longer if you have not dont the top gearbox bolts before or the starter motor before)

if you have a hoist straight out the bottom maybe 2 hours

you dont need to pull the turbo either way (that is massive waste of time and 40 times easier to do when the engine is out)

lol.. pull turbos off... lol

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah I suspect even if you hold airmass per cycle/cylinder constant if you get too far away from stock you're still going to have problems running the factory tune within the bounds of the factory load scale. Cams, different displacement/rod ratio, etc. I'm just lucky that the GTIII-SS with wastegate boost + CA compliance cats is pretty much equivalent to stock turbos. When I have actual space I can finally get it tuned and modify the fuel system for flex fuel to 100% handle any detonation concerns when cranking the boost to whatever those dinky turbos can put out.
    • I would say no, why, because my daughter, who also lives in Goulburn, hasn't recommended us going there Pity, as we miss all the German joints around in Sydney, actually, the restaurants are the only thing I really miss about Sydney, and a special mention to Ishibanboshi at Bondi Junction, their Kara-age Don is heart cloggingly deliciousness (always added a special boiled egg...or 2) 😋 
    • Does that German restaurant still exist in the old place out the NW end of Goulburn? When I say "out the NW end of"...I am really being vague. It was 1997 when I was last there, and the only point of reference I can recall is that it was on the opposite side of the main drag from the big merino. And when I say "opposite side of the main drag", I don't mean "on the main drag". It was either a couple of streets back from there, or might have even been out in the sticks a bit further. Was an old farm building or mill or somesuch. And when I say "the big merino" I might actually be thinking of a completely different part of town, because I just looked on maps and the big bugger is not where I remembered him to be! The food was good, consisting largely of various German mystery-meat sausage/loaf things and kartofflen.
    • So while the second sentence is completely correct and the whole point of the conversation, the first sentence bears consideration. If this bloke is just hoping to throw big turbos on and drive it around, because there are no helpful facilities at all in his tropical paradise** then he likely has zero chance of even knowing what the TP is on the last column in the stock maps, let alone know whether the ECU is operating anywhere near it or past it. So the point is very very moot. And, per what I said before, at stock boost on those turbos, you may well be off the end of the map. **I'm just back from Vanuatu, so I know exactly what small Pacific nations can be like wrt paradise without requisite facilities. But it's not even that simple. I put a high flow on my car and had to drive it around without a proper tune because of the lack of opportunity*** to put the bigger AFM and injectors into it to allow it to be tuned. I had to turn the boost down to less than I had before, and back off the boost controller's ramp, because it was exploring parts of the map that it didn't drive in before, and really couldn't access for tuning on the dyno either, and so was pinging. It was still well within the last column, because when I first**** set up the Nistune on the Neo I rescaled all axes of the maps to give some more space to explore. ***Family dyno was broken ****This was 13 years ago, and the TIM thing wasn't a thing then and so TP would definitely grow when pushing past the stock tune's limits.
    • Yep, this bit another local owner. I caught it before putting the transmission back into the car, what I noticed was the pressure plate fingers weren't flat and even. It's more obvious with the pull style clutch because the throwout bearing ring was visibly not flat once everything is put together. Nismo should really update their instructions to call out this specific detail. I'm not even sure the clutch as-shipped orients everything properly.
×
×
  • Create New...