Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys just did a compression test in my R33 RB25DET

Results

Cyl 1 - 155

Cyl 2 - 155

Cyl 3 - 140

Cyl 4 - 152

Cyl 5 - 155

Cyl 6 - 157

What do you guys think of these results? Good? bad?

Is Cyl #3 to low??

All comments welcome!!!~!!

After seeing others' compression tests on RB25's, I really question wtf was up with mine.

I'll be sure to post it up later this evening when I can give exact figures, but mine varied between 125psi and 135psi dry (unsure if warm or not tbh)

It never burns oil. Oil level never drops between services (5 - 7500kms) and I had very minimal blowby. Am now running 15psi through it, and makes 285rwkw.

Either the test was done incorrectly, the pressure tester thingywatsit is faulty, or I have a rebuilt engine with lower compression. Sorry to hijack a brand new thread, but don't spose I could get any insight on my situation?

I'll be sure to get another pressure test+leak down done when I put turbo back on and take for retune - will be at a different workshop to the first test too.

i know what you mean Troy, when i drove from perth to gold coast mine used a bit of oil and i tested to find 125 on 1-5 and 6 was 120.was making 350rwhp at 16 psi. sounded low but even so kept driving. eventually opened it up and found 5 pistons had broken ringlands exactly the same size piece broken and number 6 had slightly picked up. apart from it using a bit of oil i always thought i had a rebuilt engine with low compression

Yeah it's odd. Regardless, I'll continue driving it as is and taking care of it, until shit hits the fan I suppose. Then off to Melbourne or Sydney for a rebuildz - which we all know is when the REAL fun begins.

Yes my vechicle doesnt use any oil either, although there was a little oil in the metal intake pipe just before the turbo comp housing. Other then that the car runs quite well, besides the boost tapering off in high rpm.

i hate hijacking threads.. i havent done a comp test but ive had a reletative compression test done (i have no idea what the difference is or if there is a difference in the comp tests) but the scale shows 0-100 on my print out.. All cylinders are 90 or above. No excessive oil use running 11psi.. no idea what power my car is making either.. I just assumed if its above 90 then it cant be alll that bad (the reason i ask is my mate said my engine is totally f**ked after reading the rel. comp. test)

Edited by defari

^^^

sounds like you had a leak down test not a compression test, so those numbers are % not pressures.

People also have to remember that if you play with cam timing or you have different cams then comparing to factory compression figures will tell you nothing.

Edited by D_Stirls
^^^

sounds like you had a leak down test not a compression test, so those numbers are % not pressures.

People also have to remember that if you play with cam timing or you have different cams then comparing to factory compression figures will tell you nothing.

agreed, we gained 20psi compression just by setting the cam gears correctly after another shop set them wrong, went from 130 to 150psi on RB26

also, what kind of tester are you using?

My first tester said 120psi across all 6.

My Second Tester said 220psi across all 6.

My Third said 160psi across all 6.

As long as they are all within 5-8psi of each other.

If not, turn the boost down and wait for it to blow up gracefully.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hope you aren't too sore after that one, might take a day or 2 to notice yet and I guess it is a loooooong drive home. On the bright side, tube frame front end is a thing at superlap, right?
    • https://www.facebook.com/share/p/18rmVb1SKB/ 
    • The chart of front pressure to rear pressure (with one being on the x axis and the other being on the y axis) is not a straight line on a typical proportioning valve. At lower pressures there is a straight line with one slope, and at higher pressures that changes to a lower slope. That creates a bend in the line at that pressure, called the knee point. If you do not change the proportionng as the pressure gets higher, you will suffer excessive pressure (at one end of the car or the other, depending on which way you look at the proportioning action) and then get lockups at that end. The HFM BM57, from my memory of previous discussions, is based on the BM57 from a different car (to a Skyline), with a different requirement for the location of the knee point and the distribution of pressure front to rear, and so is not a good choice for an upgrade on a Skyline. Here's a couple of links to some old posts, one from here, one from elsewhere. A lot of it pertains to adjustable prop valves, but the idea is the same. There are plenty of discussions on here about this issue from al the many years of people wanting a cheap/accessible option. https://grassrootsmotorsports.com/forum/grm/learn-me-brake-proportioning-valves/236880/page1/ https://grassrootsmotorsports.com/forum/grm/learn-me-brake-proportioning-valves/236880/page1/  
    • Yeah dunno why johhny posted that here with no context, just post on FB/insta bro where he put it up?  Laine had an off at T4 during Thurs prac, he's ok, car is less than perfect, they are done for the weekend, he can fill in the rest. Bando also binned it like 100m up the road.   
    • I feel there must have been a FB/insta post and the weekend did not start well at all I hope everyone is all okay
×
×
  • Create New...