Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I would like some help with the options I'm looking at.

My 32 gts is street driven, but needs to be strong and reliable for light competion use in hill climbs, super sprints and tarmac rallies events.

With it's original RB20, a few bolt on support systems and a 15psi via an old HKS turbo it was making a healthy 200rwkw. However it has now lost a significant amount of compression and needs replacing or a rebuild.

Option A: rebuild another RB20 with GTR crank, rods & forged toyota pistons giving me @ 2.4 litres

Option B: fit an RB25

Option C: fit an RB26

I want at least the same level of power as before with increased torque in the lower revs.

I'm not sure how much money needs to be spent on top of the first two options in order to achieve the same performance and reliability level of an RB26.

But Option B & C will not be rebuilt after purchasing due to the initial outlay.

Anyone done anything like this and whats involved that i may not know about??

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/33883-best-option-rb24-25-0r-26/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 43
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

You need to be mindful of the allowable modifications in each event.

I would expect the best bang for your buck will be the RB25DET upgrade. But you'll need the ECU as well. More low-down torque from the increased capacity, just as much up top.

The RB24, as well as the cost of the build, will require a re-program of the R32 ECU, or an aftermarket job.

The RB26DETT is just too expensive for the purpose (more serious motorsport might justify it)

hi drifto. The RB24 sounds cool, but i agree with the best bang for your buck being an rb25. This motor will do ~200rwkw in its sleep with the stock turbo and an aft. ECU, plus have good torque. You may even be able to use your old HKS turbo for more power. What turbo do you have?

I've done a bit of investigating for an RB24 (or even 22) conversion, and you're looking at big $. Sydneykid & Rob helped me out with a lot of info. I would point you to the thread, but it's disappeared in the lost month of November :O maybe tis could be the start of the new thread. I'm looking for the same as you pretty much. A stronger, more reliable engine. I've been looking at a lot of the Tomei internals...but there is still much research to be done. email me [email protected] :( we could share info as we come across it. where do you live?

A properly done RB24 conversion is going to cost a lot more than 4.5K. 4.5K will buy you the pistons and rods...then there's the crank (RB26 - $$$), valvetrain, boring of the block, boring the head to match, bearings, machining of the block to fit the oversized crank, ECU...

I'm putting together some costs soon to ease my own curiousity (it won't be for a few weeks though - moving south :(). I'd be more than happy to share my results with anyone who's interested :)

but agreed...the rb25 conversion is definitely the cheaper option :O

Id say it really depends on how much money you have and how far you are willing to go.

Things i would be considering when looking at which avenue to take is:

- will you be happy running the std RB20 5 spd behind whatever you build

- are you going to upgrade the turbo

I wouldnt consider the Rb25 myslef, unless of course you get a good price on a perfectly running example.

The price of getting an unknown quantity in the shape of an RB25 which is still going to cost you upwards of $1500, if rather be throwing that money at an RB24. (Unless you think you will approach a power level where the smaller RB20 valves will be hurting power)

Depending on what you are doing with your current turbo, id say rebuild the RB20 -> RB22 with 82mm pistons, and some cams, (GTR valvetrain perhaps) OR build up a RB30DET.

But if you can scratch together the GTR crank and rods for a reasonable price, then i would be taking that path. :O

Hi guys, this is some of the stuff I posted in that thread........

An RB20 is 78 mm bore and RB25, RB26 and RB30 are all 86 mm bore. You can't bore a RB20 block 8 mm oversize. So you can't use RB25, RB26 or RB30 pistons in an RB20. About 82 mm is about as big as you can go (4AGZE pistons are a common choice).

An RB20 has a 69.7 mm stroke and RB25 is 71 mm, RB26 is 73.7 mm and RB30 is 85 mm. You can use an RB25 and RB26 crank and rods in an RB20 block. RB30 won't fit. RB25 fits in no mods RB26 needs a little work on the block to clear the crank counterweights and rod bolts.

Using an RB26 crank and rods and 4AGZE pistons gives around 2340 cc's.

If you add it all up I bet an RB25DET will be cheaper and at 2,476 cc's bigger as well.

If you want to see how this sort of rebuild goes, check out JOnJOn's posts as he is doing exactly that.

Good comments Guys, Cheers

I'm waiting for a qoute from my engine builder who just happened to have a GTR crank & set of rods. He also suggested the toyota forged pistons which are reasonably priced compared to custom forgys or aftermarket jappo ones.

I will post this option as it comes together.

Meanwhile my engine wont even start, mechanic thinks now that the comp ratio is so low in some of the cylinders that it can't kick.

It had been running pretty well before so some damage may have been done when the original leaky injector prob caused a severe flooding of the engine.

He has got it to start but only by taking all the full pressure out of the rail to about 12psi, as soon as the fuel press is normal about 35psi it floods and stalls??????

So now i'v gotta put a new engine in. Apparently!!!

$700 for 2nd hand rb20 minus turbs, $600 for install labour

Should i just go an rb25 now instead?

I already have APEX piggy back AFC & ITC

GTR fuel pump & adjustable fuel reg

A steel wheel HKS turbo of uknown specs (200rwkw 15psi RB20)

Checked out those other posts, thanks Skyline Boy!

Seems my RB24 will be limited straight away by the stock head unless i'm gonna port, valve & cam it.

I'v heard the same regarding the 25 head tho ?

Would a 25 conversion require changes to the gearbox, clutch or other things apart from the hassle of having the new dispacement certified and engineered.

If i throw another rb20 in now then build my original one I can put it back in with original engine numbers before rego is up and no one the wiser about it 2.4 capacity.

The questions are, what is the standard head capable of flowing as i'm not after top end peak power but a torquey power curve that will stay stong till about 7500 rpm

Would my existing HKS turbo be too small for the 2.4 capacity? either way it has to be better than a stock rb25 ceramic wheel.

If we can keep this thread going for a while i'll post results and experiencres as it happens.

Should be good info for a lot of skyline owners looking at rebuild options.

I don't like the idea of a rb30 for a number of reason,

they came in commodores

they are single cam, unless you spend lots of money purchasing and fitting a 25 or 26 head

i'll definatley need a new turbo for 3 litre capacity

rego, insurance, resale

It also changes the cars character too much!

But thanks anyway for your option

the rb 30 is a nissan engine.

the dohc head costs 750 comes with inlet manifold, fuel rail etc.

the r32 rb25de head is a straight bolt on to the rb30e bottom end - no modification.

your turbo is fine (im using the rb20 one which is high flowed till i can afford the biggun)

rego, insurance, dont tell em

resale - prolly get more buyers :)

changing cars character - what, u like a lotta lag? stalling it to 3500 to take off at a decent speed?

;)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I'm seeing torque specs all over the place for the OUTER tie rod, but none for the INNER tie rod, where it connects to the steering rack. Even in videos, people are just tightening em up as much as they can with a wrench and that's it. Anything tightened down without torque makes me nervous. Anyone know what the spec is for it?
    • Hope you had a great time here in our tiny country.   The JDM scene we have here is quite small, it's mostly BMW, Volkswagen with burble tunes haha. But the few JDM cars we do have in the scene are pretty nice. Some of my friends drive cool s14's too. Both built engines, red one makes abt 500, blue one abt 400 i think?
    • Ye good idea , would have never thought of something like that. Might aswell do it to every pulley and the balancer while I’m there 
    • Use an LS1 or similar, via kit like Frenchy's. But.... It's probably not the alternator. It sounds like belt squeal, which would be because the pulleys are glazed. Rub every groove on the pulleys with 120 grit paper. Report back. Oh, and new belts afterwards too. The old new ones will be shitted up already.
    • Hello all I have 2 r34 sedans , one turbo one na, only recently aquired the na 34.  Man what is with these things.... My turbo 34 started sounding like a super charger, it was screaming at anything above 4000rpm , I took the alternator apart and replaced the front bearing which is the only one I think you can access and it did not fix the issue so presumably the bearing in the rear of the alternator is gone. ( diagnosed it was the alternator by taking off the aux belts one by one to figure out which pulley or bearing it was )  My friend gave me one he had lying around, Installed it , it did not squeal for maybe 500kms and now its started to squeal again briefly on startup  Recently got an na r34 and I replaced the timing belt, water pump + all the auxillirary belts. Runs amazing but it suddenly developed the same squeaking problem but significantly worse, Ive had my neighbour come down screaming at me because it was waking her up everytime I moved the car. It takes a good 2 minutes before it quietens down.  Im yet to diagnose where its coming from but im fairly sure its coming from the alternator aswell. My question isnt about how to fix it but rather where can you get a new alternator for an rb25 neo??? Ive searched everywhere but I havent been able to find a direct fit oem type replacement thats not genuine. All the automotive stores sell an oex one - BXA035 - which I picked up for cheap through a friend with staff discount , got it home only to find the connector is completelty different.... As far as im aware bxa035 is for rb20/30's and after a bit of figuring out the bxa035 has an ev14 type connector, which is tiny compared to the rb25 connector. I actually had an ev14 connector lying around which I was considering just replacing the bigger plug with to get the alternator working but the bxa035 is rated for 70amp vs the rb25 alternators are 90amp ( or so ive been told ? ) That paired along with the fact im about to install an amp + sub in the back and I have the stock sized small battery Im not sure itll do the job unless anyone has another opinion?  I know and have seen all the websites selling the ls1 alternator conversion kit but I am not going down that route, nor do I have the money to. Hopefully I can figure out how to get 2 brand new alternators for both cars. I would buy second hand which there seems to be many of but considering how common this seems to be im sure If I installed a second hand one it would start squealing in no time  Or even better if anyone knows how to fix the issue directly with the alternator itself... Any input appreciated Thank you     Link for bxa035 connector picture
×
×
  • Create New...