Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

did a bit of a search but came up empty. Google turned up this:

ECU Resetting Procedures

Timing is extremely critical. If it is NOT DONE within the specify time, the ECU will not reset and the Check Engine Light (CEL) will continue to remain ON. A stop watch or an analog clock with a second’s needle will be useful.

Operations Procedures

1. Confirm that accelerator pedal is fully released, turn ignition switch “ON” and wait 3 seconds.

2. Repeat the following steps (2a and 2b) procedures quickly five times within 5 seconds.

2a. Fully depress the accelerator pedal (HARD).

2b. Fully release the accelerator pedal.

3. Wait 7 seconds, fully depress the accelerator pedal and keep it for approx. 10 seconds until the CEL starts blinking.

4. Fully release the accelerator pedal (while the CEL is still blinking)

5. Wait about 10 second.

6. Fully depress the accelerator pedal and keep it for more than 10 seconds.

7. Fully release the accelerator pedal (The CEL light will continue to blink).

8. Turn ignition switch to “OFF” position and now you can start the car. The CEL light should be gone.

If the CEL light continues to remain ON, repeat the above steps. Timing is EXTREMELY critical to resetting the ECU.

Edit: Added the "Easy Method" for ECU Reset

The Easy Method:

After experimenting with different timing, and reading posts by other members, I've come up with a condensed method of doing this reset. This method works EVERY time, even w/o a stopwatch. I've used this method successfully a dozen times, or so, now w/o a watch. After a few times, you won't need a watch or instructions. You'll get so darn good at it, you'll find yourself doing it while waiting at a traffic light.

Timing is not as critical with this method...no stop watch needed. Just count in your head...one-one thousand, two-one thousand, etc, or use stop watch. The most critical step is step #3....wait 10 sec, instead of 7.

1. Ignition "ON", count to 3.

2. Depress/Release pedal 5 times...hard and fast.

3. Count to 10 (not 7!) and fully depress pedal

4. Count to 12 (SES should be blinking), release pedal

5. Count to 10, depress pedal

6. Count to 10, release pedal.

7. Turn off ignition, then start engine. Done!

Will disconnecting the battery be an even easier option? Or does anyone have another procedure lol? Thanks.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/339248-reset-ecu/
Share on other sites

1. Ignition "ON", count to 3.

2. Depress/Release pedal 5 times...hard and fast.

3. Count to 10 (not 7!) and fully depress pedal

4. Count to 12 (SES should be blinking), release pedal

5. Count to 10, depress pedal

6. Count to 10, release pedal.

7. Turn off ignition, then start engine. Done!

Will disconnecting the battery be an even easier option? Or does anyone have another procedure lol? Thanks.

Disconnecting battery doesn't seem to work... unless you leave it off for a few days I guess.

That procedure is the same as our M35 Stagea's

Just a quick note, Step 4 above is where the ECU displays any error codes so perhaps it would be a good idea to write them down before moving on to step 5. :laugh:

Also, I compiled a (long) list of error codes that are applicable to V35, M35 etc for future reference.

Edited by iamhe77
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/339248-reset-ecu/#findComment-5479956
Share on other sites

what reason would one have to need to reset the ECU??

Mainly when U get new mechanical mods, for example things like resetting the knock sensor so the ignition timing is accurate after you've added say a throttle-body spacer, resetting the O2 sensor if you've installed HFC or even something as minor as a Z-tube. IMO Any kind of mod to the intake/exhaust and engine (i.e. bigger injectors) will require an ECU reset. In doing that, the ECU 'learns' your driving style and makes any necessary adjustments. Also, if you want to clear any error codes (e.g. airbag light flashing) an ECU reset does the job.

P.S: I've even heard of people resetting the ECU after an Oil change. I don't, however, I don't have any arguments against it so I won't go into it.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/339248-reset-ecu/#findComment-5484560
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...
Mainly when U get new mechanical mods, for example things like resetting the knock sensor so the ignition timing is accurate after you've added say a throttle-body spacer, resetting the O2 sensor if you've installed HFC or even something as minor as a Z-tube. IMO Any kind of mod to the intake/exhaust and engine (i.e. bigger injectors) will require an ECU reset. In doing that, the ECU 'learns' your driving style and makes any necessary adjustments. Also, if you want to clear any error codes (e.g. airbag light flashing) an ECU reset does the job.

P.S: I've even heard of people resetting the ECU after an Oil change. I don't, however, I don't have any arguments against it so I won't go into it.

How does the ECU learn?

Is it through time spent at different speeds, average speeds, and rates of acceleration or what? Is it always adjusting and if so why would a reset be necessary?

My LPG Emer sequential vapour injection system was recently installed.

These systems piggyback off the ECU I believe and learn how to operate on LPG based on the ECU.

I am thinking of resetting the ECU as I believe my LPG system should be getting better mileage. However as I am in a remote area I am concerned I may somehow stuff up the motor with no assistance within a few hours drive. Currently 6km / litre on LPG everything else seems fine, easy to start ,good acceleration high speed overtaking no problem.

Before the conversion I was getting around 7km to 9km a litre on petrol dending on speed and driving style. I should be getting only 10 % to 15% worse but I have been told it could be as little as 5 %.

Straight after conversion I drove 2500km on the highway in 2 days. I can’t return to the installer until next year.

Vehicle - 1996 non turbo automatic skyline GTS

Any thoughts as to poor LPG fuel consumption immediately after conversion.

i havent run on petrol since conversion as it is a $1-60 a litre on average

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/339248-reset-ecu/#findComment-5500787
Share on other sites

Disconnect the battery and pump the brake peddle 5 times.

Would the above be for all nissan vehicles or just V series motors?

How long after resetting to factory settings does the system stabilise to a new driver.

is it the time and engine is on or km driven

Under what conditions is the ECU modifying the system or does it do it continuously every second !

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/339248-reset-ecu/#findComment-5500801
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...

Ok try the long way.

The ECU Resetting Procedures Timing is extremely critical. If it is NOT DONE within the specify time, the ECU will not reset

1. Confirm that accelerator pedal is fully released, turn ignition switch “ON” and wait 3 seconds.

2. Repeat the following steps (2a and 2b) procedures quickly five times within 5 seconds.

2a. Fully depress the accelerator pedal (HARD).

2b. Fully release the accelerator pedal.

3. Wait 7 seconds, fully depress the accelerator pedal and keep it for approx. 10 seconds until the CEL starts blinking.

4. Fully release the accelerator pedal (while the CEL is still blinking)

5. Wait about 10 second.

6. Fully depress the accelerator pedal and keep it for more than 10 seconds.

7. Fully release the accelerator pedal (The CEL light will continue to blink).

8. Turn ignition switch to “OFF” position and now you can start the car. The CEL light should be gone. :)

If the CEL light continues to remain ON, repeat the above steps. Timing is EXTREMELY critical to resetting the ECU. :D

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/339248-reset-ecu/#findComment-5531994
Share on other sites

how do u know if u have reset the ecu. Im interested in resetting mine as i have recently bought the car a few months ago and fuel consumption is pretty high. Will resetting the ECU help??

getting 450km per tank on a good day, 370km when i drive with a bit of a lead foot.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/339248-reset-ecu/#findComment-5532164
Share on other sites

how do u know if u have reset the ecu. Im interested in resetting mine as i have recently bought the car a few months ago and fuel consumption is pretty high. Will resetting the ECU help??

getting 450km per tank on a good day, 370km when i drive with a bit of a lead foot.

There is a common problem with the V35 and the fuel gauge. You might need it cleaned/replaced. when it's on the red line "E" you could have a 1/4 tank left. Maybe.

You should get 550km on a good tank.

Edited by V35_Paul
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/339248-reset-ecu/#findComment-5532463
Share on other sites

tried again....about 20 times, im getting .1-.2 seconds off wen im lapping the stopwatch to the next step and im still getting nothing...should i be trying something different or getting closer - things im thinking i might be doing wrong -

1 - the first step im doing wrong , when do i start counting the first three seconds as soon as i put on the ignition to on or wait till at check light goes off?

2 - also maybe the 5 press and let go (second step), at after the 3 seconds(1st step) is it 1 in and out per seconds or it doesnt matter because im doing it within 3-4 seconds and continuing if i finish the second step before 5 seconds say 3.5 do i wait till 5 seconds then start next step?

Edited by ezy03
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/339248-reset-ecu/#findComment-5532827
Share on other sites

tried again....about 20 times, im getting .1-.2 seconds off wen im lapping the stopwatch to the next step and im still getting nothing...should i be trying something different or getting closer - things im thinking i might be doing wrong -

1 - the first step im doing wrong , when do i start counting the first three seconds as soon as i put on the ignition to on or wait till at check light goes off?

2 - also maybe the 5 press and let go (second step), at after the 3 seconds(1st step) is it 1 in and out per seconds or it doesnt matter because im doing it within 3-4 seconds and continuing if i finish the second step before 5 seconds say 3.5 do i wait till 5 seconds then start next step?

1. As soon as you turn it "On".

2. Doesn't matter how quick as long as it's within 5 sec. When the peddle is fully out start counting your 7 sec.

If it's not working maybe your problem can not go away with a reset.

What is the problem your having? Why do you need a reset?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/339248-reset-ecu/#findComment-5532856
Share on other sites

installed a few mods and it said to reset it, might get my cai in next week and let the place im getting installed at do it, save me the hassle

You don't need to reset it. You can just drive the car around and the ECU will adjust it's self to the new mods. A few hours of driving will do it.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/339248-reset-ecu/#findComment-5533252
Share on other sites

  • 3 years later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The fab work can be as simple as a couple of silicon hoses and clamps to the factory piping. 
    • Just sounds like either way you need to do some fab work to get everything to fit, so why limit yourself at that point? If the GCG high flow option is zero effort in and out swap though I'd probably do that. It's almost certainly lowest risk, lowest cost, etc. The HKS GTIII-RS option that Kapr mentioned is laughably expensive for what it is, they charge the exact same for two turbos on the RB26 so their margins are off the charts on that thing.
    • Intake manifold is not a part of the issue. The turbo bolts to the exhaust manifold. That is easy. But close your eyes and picture the physical situation. That is a T3 flange on the manifold and a T3 flange on the turbo. As long as any new turbo has a T3 flange on the exhaust housing, that exhaust housing will bolt to the exhaust manifold. This places the exhaust housing in the same place as the stock one. But now move your mental attention a little further forward. The location of the compressor housing is set by the length of the turbo's core. The stock turbo had a long core. Let's say that it is..... 100mm long. So that would place the compressor housing 100mm forward of the exhaust housing. But a highflow, might well have a centre core that is shorter. Let's say that it is only 70mm long. Now the compressor housing will be 30mm further back in the engine bay than the stock one. This DOES move the turbo's compressor outlet backwards. It also moves the compressor's inlet backwards. You will very likely have to do some work to both the inlet and outlet piping to make everything connect again. I am not say this to make it out to be a bigger deal than it is. I am just pointing out that "bolt on" is sometimes not quite bolt on. The highflow from GCG that Murray linked above (https://gcg.com.au/turbo-charger-upgrade-skyline-gtst-2iu-xtrgts-s1.html ) uses a core that is the same length as the stock core, and so does not require this extra work. It will look very much like the stock turbo. No-one uses GTR turbos of any flavour (stock, or aftermarket) in a single turbo application on RB20/25. It's not a thing. Yes, people have been putting on GT3076, GTX3076 (and bigger and smaller versions of those) and G30s (of various sizes) onto RB20/25 since forever. But these are not "bolt on". Everything except the 4 bolts to the exhaust manifold change with these. And genuine Garretts are expensive. Non-gen, like Pulsar, etc, are cheaper, variously as good or nearly as good. But still not bolt on. No-one in the right mind would pay for an HKS turbo. Not in this modern day and age. Well, yes, the GCG highflow. You could ask HG what he can do to make the compressor housing sit in the original location. There are surely others doing highflows around the world. And some of the eBay/Temu ones (as reported by Dose) work and don't die. Bit of a lottery though. I would send your turbo to GCG (here in Oz) to be highflowed if you want a trivial no-extra-work option. But seriously, the work required to change inlet and outlet piping is not that hard. That's a boost control problem, not a turbo problem.
    • Thank you all for the replys 🙂 I know that intake would be different but that is one pipe at it is not that hard to get(custom one). I meant mainly bolt to the stock manifold and the turbo elbow. I looked and many sites/forums but they are just "old" with some old HKS turbos from GT-R i guess? What about some Garrets?  Or any other turbo? Is there even a turbo which i can just bolt on? 😄 And yeah i know about that new HKS but that is like 2000k USD without taxes/shipping in here   Iam getting a touch up tune but my "problem" is that on the "not" hot day iam getting peaks around 0,9 bar...and when it was around 15 Celsious i saw peak around 1 bar which is just too much for stock turbo. And of course turbo is old and i like to get some new one for a piece of mind 🙂 
    • I'm working on the assumption that our friend Jasmine here is a Russian (or, possibly Ukrainian) spammer/spambot, based purely on the number of such that I have been having to neuter in the last few weeks. IP address for the OP above was in WA. But that could have been via VPN. Posting at quarter to 4 in the morning is a good sign of being from somewhere in Europe. The last Jasmine that I kicked in the cooch was IP addressed in Ukraine. Even that could have been via VPN, and the bitchbot could have been from Russia, Serbia, China or anywhere. Regardless, was a spambot, so I killed it with fire. The fact that our new friend Jasmine here did not respond in any way to my tart query strongly suggests to me that this OP was just the establishment phase of a user able to be activated for spamming in a week, or 3 or 10.
×
×
  • Create New...