Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

did a bit of a search but came up empty. Google turned up this:

ECU Resetting Procedures

Timing is extremely critical. If it is NOT DONE within the specify time, the ECU will not reset and the Check Engine Light (CEL) will continue to remain ON. A stop watch or an analog clock with a second’s needle will be useful.

Operations Procedures

1. Confirm that accelerator pedal is fully released, turn ignition switch “ON” and wait 3 seconds.

2. Repeat the following steps (2a and 2b) procedures quickly five times within 5 seconds.

2a. Fully depress the accelerator pedal (HARD).

2b. Fully release the accelerator pedal.

3. Wait 7 seconds, fully depress the accelerator pedal and keep it for approx. 10 seconds until the CEL starts blinking.

4. Fully release the accelerator pedal (while the CEL is still blinking)

5. Wait about 10 second.

6. Fully depress the accelerator pedal and keep it for more than 10 seconds.

7. Fully release the accelerator pedal (The CEL light will continue to blink).

8. Turn ignition switch to “OFF” position and now you can start the car. The CEL light should be gone.

If the CEL light continues to remain ON, repeat the above steps. Timing is EXTREMELY critical to resetting the ECU.

Edit: Added the "Easy Method" for ECU Reset

The Easy Method:

After experimenting with different timing, and reading posts by other members, I've come up with a condensed method of doing this reset. This method works EVERY time, even w/o a stopwatch. I've used this method successfully a dozen times, or so, now w/o a watch. After a few times, you won't need a watch or instructions. You'll get so darn good at it, you'll find yourself doing it while waiting at a traffic light.

Timing is not as critical with this method...no stop watch needed. Just count in your head...one-one thousand, two-one thousand, etc, or use stop watch. The most critical step is step #3....wait 10 sec, instead of 7.

1. Ignition "ON", count to 3.

2. Depress/Release pedal 5 times...hard and fast.

3. Count to 10 (not 7!) and fully depress pedal

4. Count to 12 (SES should be blinking), release pedal

5. Count to 10, depress pedal

6. Count to 10, release pedal.

7. Turn off ignition, then start engine. Done!

Will disconnecting the battery be an even easier option? Or does anyone have another procedure lol? Thanks.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/339248-reset-ecu/
Share on other sites

1. Ignition "ON", count to 3.

2. Depress/Release pedal 5 times...hard and fast.

3. Count to 10 (not 7!) and fully depress pedal

4. Count to 12 (SES should be blinking), release pedal

5. Count to 10, depress pedal

6. Count to 10, release pedal.

7. Turn off ignition, then start engine. Done!

Will disconnecting the battery be an even easier option? Or does anyone have another procedure lol? Thanks.

Disconnecting battery doesn't seem to work... unless you leave it off for a few days I guess.

That procedure is the same as our M35 Stagea's

Just a quick note, Step 4 above is where the ECU displays any error codes so perhaps it would be a good idea to write them down before moving on to step 5. :laugh:

Also, I compiled a (long) list of error codes that are applicable to V35, M35 etc for future reference.

Edited by iamhe77
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/339248-reset-ecu/#findComment-5479956
Share on other sites

what reason would one have to need to reset the ECU??

Mainly when U get new mechanical mods, for example things like resetting the knock sensor so the ignition timing is accurate after you've added say a throttle-body spacer, resetting the O2 sensor if you've installed HFC or even something as minor as a Z-tube. IMO Any kind of mod to the intake/exhaust and engine (i.e. bigger injectors) will require an ECU reset. In doing that, the ECU 'learns' your driving style and makes any necessary adjustments. Also, if you want to clear any error codes (e.g. airbag light flashing) an ECU reset does the job.

P.S: I've even heard of people resetting the ECU after an Oil change. I don't, however, I don't have any arguments against it so I won't go into it.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/339248-reset-ecu/#findComment-5484560
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...
Mainly when U get new mechanical mods, for example things like resetting the knock sensor so the ignition timing is accurate after you've added say a throttle-body spacer, resetting the O2 sensor if you've installed HFC or even something as minor as a Z-tube. IMO Any kind of mod to the intake/exhaust and engine (i.e. bigger injectors) will require an ECU reset. In doing that, the ECU 'learns' your driving style and makes any necessary adjustments. Also, if you want to clear any error codes (e.g. airbag light flashing) an ECU reset does the job.

P.S: I've even heard of people resetting the ECU after an Oil change. I don't, however, I don't have any arguments against it so I won't go into it.

How does the ECU learn?

Is it through time spent at different speeds, average speeds, and rates of acceleration or what? Is it always adjusting and if so why would a reset be necessary?

My LPG Emer sequential vapour injection system was recently installed.

These systems piggyback off the ECU I believe and learn how to operate on LPG based on the ECU.

I am thinking of resetting the ECU as I believe my LPG system should be getting better mileage. However as I am in a remote area I am concerned I may somehow stuff up the motor with no assistance within a few hours drive. Currently 6km / litre on LPG everything else seems fine, easy to start ,good acceleration high speed overtaking no problem.

Before the conversion I was getting around 7km to 9km a litre on petrol dending on speed and driving style. I should be getting only 10 % to 15% worse but I have been told it could be as little as 5 %.

Straight after conversion I drove 2500km on the highway in 2 days. I can’t return to the installer until next year.

Vehicle - 1996 non turbo automatic skyline GTS

Any thoughts as to poor LPG fuel consumption immediately after conversion.

i havent run on petrol since conversion as it is a $1-60 a litre on average

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/339248-reset-ecu/#findComment-5500787
Share on other sites

Disconnect the battery and pump the brake peddle 5 times.

Would the above be for all nissan vehicles or just V series motors?

How long after resetting to factory settings does the system stabilise to a new driver.

is it the time and engine is on or km driven

Under what conditions is the ECU modifying the system or does it do it continuously every second !

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/339248-reset-ecu/#findComment-5500801
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...

Ok try the long way.

The ECU Resetting Procedures Timing is extremely critical. If it is NOT DONE within the specify time, the ECU will not reset

1. Confirm that accelerator pedal is fully released, turn ignition switch “ON” and wait 3 seconds.

2. Repeat the following steps (2a and 2b) procedures quickly five times within 5 seconds.

2a. Fully depress the accelerator pedal (HARD).

2b. Fully release the accelerator pedal.

3. Wait 7 seconds, fully depress the accelerator pedal and keep it for approx. 10 seconds until the CEL starts blinking.

4. Fully release the accelerator pedal (while the CEL is still blinking)

5. Wait about 10 second.

6. Fully depress the accelerator pedal and keep it for more than 10 seconds.

7. Fully release the accelerator pedal (The CEL light will continue to blink).

8. Turn ignition switch to “OFF” position and now you can start the car. The CEL light should be gone. :)

If the CEL light continues to remain ON, repeat the above steps. Timing is EXTREMELY critical to resetting the ECU. :D

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/339248-reset-ecu/#findComment-5531994
Share on other sites

how do u know if u have reset the ecu. Im interested in resetting mine as i have recently bought the car a few months ago and fuel consumption is pretty high. Will resetting the ECU help??

getting 450km per tank on a good day, 370km when i drive with a bit of a lead foot.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/339248-reset-ecu/#findComment-5532164
Share on other sites

how do u know if u have reset the ecu. Im interested in resetting mine as i have recently bought the car a few months ago and fuel consumption is pretty high. Will resetting the ECU help??

getting 450km per tank on a good day, 370km when i drive with a bit of a lead foot.

There is a common problem with the V35 and the fuel gauge. You might need it cleaned/replaced. when it's on the red line "E" you could have a 1/4 tank left. Maybe.

You should get 550km on a good tank.

Edited by V35_Paul
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/339248-reset-ecu/#findComment-5532463
Share on other sites

tried again....about 20 times, im getting .1-.2 seconds off wen im lapping the stopwatch to the next step and im still getting nothing...should i be trying something different or getting closer - things im thinking i might be doing wrong -

1 - the first step im doing wrong , when do i start counting the first three seconds as soon as i put on the ignition to on or wait till at check light goes off?

2 - also maybe the 5 press and let go (second step), at after the 3 seconds(1st step) is it 1 in and out per seconds or it doesnt matter because im doing it within 3-4 seconds and continuing if i finish the second step before 5 seconds say 3.5 do i wait till 5 seconds then start next step?

Edited by ezy03
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/339248-reset-ecu/#findComment-5532827
Share on other sites

tried again....about 20 times, im getting .1-.2 seconds off wen im lapping the stopwatch to the next step and im still getting nothing...should i be trying something different or getting closer - things im thinking i might be doing wrong -

1 - the first step im doing wrong , when do i start counting the first three seconds as soon as i put on the ignition to on or wait till at check light goes off?

2 - also maybe the 5 press and let go (second step), at after the 3 seconds(1st step) is it 1 in and out per seconds or it doesnt matter because im doing it within 3-4 seconds and continuing if i finish the second step before 5 seconds say 3.5 do i wait till 5 seconds then start next step?

1. As soon as you turn it "On".

2. Doesn't matter how quick as long as it's within 5 sec. When the peddle is fully out start counting your 7 sec.

If it's not working maybe your problem can not go away with a reset.

What is the problem your having? Why do you need a reset?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/339248-reset-ecu/#findComment-5532856
Share on other sites

installed a few mods and it said to reset it, might get my cai in next week and let the place im getting installed at do it, save me the hassle

You don't need to reset it. You can just drive the car around and the ECU will adjust it's self to the new mods. A few hours of driving will do it.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/339248-reset-ecu/#findComment-5533252
Share on other sites

  • 3 years later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Who did you have do the installation? I actually know someone who is VERY familiar with the AVS gear. The main point of contact though would be your installer.   Where are you based in NZ?
    • Look, realistically, those are some fairly chunky connectors and wires so it is a reasonably fair bet that that loom was involved in the redirection of the fuel pump and/or ECU/ignition power for the immobiliser. It's also fair to be that the new immobiliser is essentially the same thing as the old one, and so it probably needs the same stuff done to make it do what it has to do. Given that you are talking about a car that no-one else here is familiar with (I mean your exact car) and an alarm that I've never heard of before and so probably not many others are familiar with, and that some wire monkey has been messing with it out of our sight, it seems reasonable that the wire monkey should be fixing this.
    • Wheel alignment immediately. Not "when I get around to it". And further to what Duncan said - you cannot just put camber arms on and shorten them. You will introduce bump steer far in excess of what the car had with stock arms. You need adjustable tension arms and they need to be shortened also. The simplest approach is to shorten them the same % as the stock ones. This will not be correct or optimal, but it will be better than any other guess. The correct way to set the lengths of both arms is to use a properly built/set up bump steer gauge and trial and error the adjustments until you hit the camber you need and want and have minimum bump steer in the range of motion that the wheel is expected to travel. And what Duncan said about toe is also very true. And you cannot change the camber arm without also affecting toe. So when you have adjustable arms on the back of a Skyline, the car either needs to go to a talented wheel aligner (not your local tyre shop dropout), or you need to be able to do this stuff yourself at home. Guess which approach I have taken? I have built my own gear for camber, toe and bump steer measurement and I do all this on the flattest bit of concrete I have, with some shims under the tyres on one side to level the car.
    • Thought I would get some advice from others on this situation.    Relevant info: R33 GTS25t Link G4x ECU Walbro 255LPH w/ OEM FP Relay (No relay mod) Scenario: I accidentally messed up my old AVS S5 (rev.1) at the start of the year and the cars been immobilised. Also the siren BBU has completely failed; so I decided to upgrade it.  I got a newer AVS S5 (rev.2?) installed on Friday. The guy removed the old one and its immobilisers. Tried to start it; the car cranks but doesnt start.  The new one was installed and all the alarm functions seem to be working as they should; still wouldn't start Went to bed; got up on Friday morning and decided to have a look into the no start problem. Found the car completely dead.  Charged the battery; plugged it back in and found the brake lights were stuck on.  Unplugging the brake pedal switch the lights turn off. Plug it back in and theyre stuck on again. I tested the switch (continuity test and resistance); all looks good (0-1kohm).  On talking to AVS; found its because of the rubber stopper on the brake pedal; sure enough the middle of it is missing so have ordered a new one. One of those wear items; which was confusing what was going on However when I try unplugging the STOP Light fuses (under the dash and under the hood) the brake light still stays on. Should those fuses not cut the brake light circuit?  I then checked the ECU; FP Speed Error.  Testing the pump again; I can hear the relay clicking every time I switch it to ON. I unplugged the pump and put the multimeter across the plug. No continuity; im seeing 0.6V (ECU signal?) and when it switches the relay I think its like 20mA or 200mA). Not seeing 12.4V / 7-9A. As far as I know; the Fuel Pump was wired through one of the immobiliser relays on the old alarm.  He pulled some thick gauged harness out with the old alarm wiring; which looks to me like it was to bridge connections into the immobilisers? Before it got immobilised it was running just fine.  Im at a loss to why the FP is getting no voltage; I thought maybe the FP was faulty (even though I havent even done 50km on the new pump) but no voltage at the harness plug.  Questions: Could it be he didnt reconnect the fuel pump when testing it after the old alarm removal (before installing the new alarm)?  Is this a case of bridging to the brake lights instead of the fuel pump circuit? It's a bit beyond me as I dont do a lot with electrical; so have tried my best to diagnose what I think seems to make sense.  Seeking advice if theres for sure an issue with the alarm install to get him back here; or if I do infact, need an auto electrician to diagnose it. 
    • Then, shorten them by 1cm, drop the car back down and have a visual look (or even better, use a spirit level across the wheel to see if you have less camber than before. You still want something like 1.5 for road use. Alternatively, if you have adjustable rear ride height (I assume you do if you have extreme camber wear), raise the suspension back to standard height until you can get it all aligned properly. Finally, keep in mind that wear on the inside of the tyre can be for incorrect toe, not just camber
×
×
  • Create New...