Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys

im trying to decide what offsets to get

its still a while till i get them but i wanna know if im being to ambitious

im sick of having such bad offset so im thinking...

lenso d1r's, black 18x9 +15 or 18x10 -1

i think the 10's will be ouf of the guards but i've got a lot of room till that happens

ppl seem to run 10's easily on 33 gtrs so i guess they will fit on the stagea?

i ran the 10's through an offset calc and it said they will stick out 74mm more

anyone running these widths? pics?

hopefully this thread can become a reference point for rs4s owners

Thanks, Tom

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/339249-rs4s-wheel-thread/
Share on other sites

A few points to consider when picking wider wheel widths. They will all affect the fitment.

1. Tyre size

2. Ride height

3. Camber

4. Tyre stretch

My car for example. Has series 2 manual rear cradle out of a 'S' in it.

1. 245/35x19's

2. 330mm

3. approx 2deg neg on the rear

Wheel size 19x9.5 +12

With this combination I have approx 10mm inner clearance to shocks and I cannot fit my little finger in between the outer tyre and the guard. Maybe 5-7mm clear. They never rub.

I am looking at reducing the neg camber to approx 0.5 so I will need to roll the guards. It will also increase the inner clearance to the strut.

245's are a little stretched on 9.5's. Will be worst on 10's.

You could get 10's to fit with streched tyres and and some camber with minimum rim outside the guards.

All depends what look you want.

Personally I would stay to max of 9.5's, but everyone is different.

i'm running 18 x 10's on my S2 stagea. not sure of the offset, i'll have a look tonight.

being an auto and having wider track on the rear they hang out a little bit, but i've got 235's stretched on them so they sit okay.

i've also dialed in about 2.5 neg camber on the rear to tuck them in at the top.

stag2.jpg

stag.jpg

Thanks guys

I want aggressive fitment but I'm currently at stock height but I think I'm a bit lower cos the car is fitted with impul shocks and the springs seem stiffer than others

I'll measure the height later

i'm running 18 x 10's on my S2 stagea. not sure of the offset, i'll have a look tonight.

being an auto and having wider track on the rear they hang out a little bit, but i've got 235's stretched on them so they sit okay.

i've also dialed in about 2.5 neg camber on the rear to tuck them in at the top.

they will be ~+20 offset

i swapped my rear cradle to an s14 one, so fitment is the same as an rs4-s

ran

18x9.5+2 235/40 silverstones -2 deg camber front

18x9.5+1 235/40 federals -0.5 deg camber rear

plateless100_1422.jpg

IMG_2507.jpg

40775_137702389600874_109368819100898_157970_3916242_n.jpg

they will be ~+20 offset

close mate, according to my measurements (can't read japanese) it looks like they are +12. they were tucked in alot better when it was running 3.5' neg on the rear, but i was also destroying tyres even after setting up the toe accordingly.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi...so a "development" here aswell The swap is "done" and car went "test drive" BUT it seems the clutch(maybe gearbox?) is a little bit sad? I bought this clutch kit https://justjap.com/products/xtreme-heavy-duty-organic-clutch-flywheel-kit-nissan-skyline-r31-r32-r33-push-type "Problem" is that the first gear is hard to put into and it seems that the clutch is not disengaged. It was not the problem with the old clutch...(or like sometime the first gear would not get as easy specialy when the fluid was cold) So? Can it be like...bad "install" or is the clutch wrong ((it should not have been) i done research to get the right one) Or is this "normal" with new clutch and needs to be break in? 
    • @Duncan I can try  and thanks i did not thought about VIN and part numbers for 33/34. @GTSBoy yeah it looks like iam gonna do that  
    • Forgot to include this but this is the mid section of my steering rack that looks like it has a thread/can be turned with that notch mentioned in the post:
    • Hey everyone, Wanted to pick some brains about this issue I'm having with rebuilding my 33 rack (PN is 49001-19U05). All of the tutorials/videos I've seen online are either R34 or S Chassis racks which seem to be pretty straightforward to disassemble but this process doesnt carry over to my rack. Few of the key differences that I've noted The pinion shaft on the other racks bolt on with 3 torx bolts: Whereas my rack bolts on with 2 allen head bolts: These changes are pretty inconsequential but the main difference is how you pull the actual rack out of the housing. The other skyline/s chassis racks can be taken out by tapping the rack out of the body with a socket and it just slides right out. I'm unable to do that with my rack because there's a hard stop at the end that doesn't let the seal/shaft be tapped out. Can also see a difference in the other end of the rack where mine has a notch that looks like you're able to use a big wrench to unthread 2 halves of the rack whereas the other racks are just kinda set in with a punch. My rack: Other racks: TLDR; Wanted to know if anyone has rebuilt this specific model of steering rack for the R33 and if there were any steps to getting it done easier or if I should just give this to a professional to get done. Sorry if this post is a bit messy, first one I've done.
    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
×
×
  • Create New...