Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 50
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Mark from SSV was driving it for awhile before this was put up for sale. It's already in their yard when I bought my V35 off them in May. I used to go there once or twice a week to check the progress of my car for about a little over a month. So I have seen it in flesh many times. All I can say is overall it's a pretty straight R34 GTR. No major dents or marks. Engine looks ok with some minor mods. Sounds awesome too. 55k is on the high side but their cars are usually pretty neat. So they might have their reasons to justify the price.

P.S. If they tell you the Ks are genuine, don't believe them cuz Mark himself told me they are not. :blush:

LOLOLOL ...... WOW, you'll be popular.

Mark from SSV was driving it for awhile before this was put up for sale. It's already in their yard when I bought my V35 off them in May. I used to go there once or twice a week to check the progress of my car for about a little over a month. So I have seen it in flesh many times. All I can say is overall it's a pretty straight R34 GTR. No major dents or marks. Engine looks ok with some minor mods. Sounds awesome too. 55k is on the high side but their cars are usually pretty neat. So they might have their reasons to justify the price.

P.S. If they tell you the Ks are genuine, don't believe them cuz Mark himself told me they are not. :blush:

It is a V-Spec model + the interior looks decent for it's age, but if K's are "wound back" then fuck paying $55K for it.

Either ask for a lower price or go else where...

i bought my R34 from them and i wont recommend anyone to go there they dodgy

parts has come off that car cos i remember he tried to swap my HKS exhaust for the Apexi N1 that was in the Gtr.

first two days i bought my car, my manifold cracked, i told him about the noise before i bought the car he told me it was exhaust noise

i bought my car back in may when interfoiler bought his :), its been sitting there since then and the price was around 60k mark

i had a look at that caryard before i bought mine, and i remember asking about that blue gtr n the guy replied its my brothers (the owners) and i bought my car aug 09 so u can imagine how long its been sitting there

in terms of price, you can find for sale locally '99 GTR V-specs for 40 - $45k.... and i've seen 34 GTR's be imported for as low as $33k!

this one is in Vic, $42k

http://www.carsales.com.au/all-cars/privat...mode%20matchany

in terms of price, you can find for sale locally '99 GTR V-specs for 40 - $45k.... and i've seen 34 GTR's be imported for as low as $33k!

this one is in Vic, $42k

http://www.carsales.com.au/all-cars/privat...mode%20matchany

Yes, local ones seem cheaper than imports, but I really want a blue R34 :ninja:

Import for $33k? Where? Most cars from Jap Auctions go for easily over 2.5M yen and that's at least $45k+ landed, complianced + ORC.

Yes, local ones seem cheaper than imports, but I really want a blue R34 :ninja:

Import for $33k? Where? Most cars from Jap Auctions go for easily over 2.5M yen and that's at least $45k+ landed, complianced + ORC.

It really depends on the auction. I did see someone import VSPEC2 34 on road for under 40K...its the game of luck...

Just ask Aaron at import monster... he imported a white R34 GTR 99 non-vspec which ended up owing him only $36k from memory

YES he did tell me that....that another lucky one got a great car for a bargain...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I thought that might be the case, thats what I'll start saving for. Thanks for the info 
    • Ps i found the below forum and it seems to be the same scenario Im dealing with. Going to check my ECU coolant temp wire tomorrow    From NICOclub forum: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Thu Apr 11, 2013 7:23 am I am completely lost on this. Car ran perfectly fine when I parked it at the end of the year. I took the engine out and painted the engine bay, and put a fuel cell with an inline walbro 255 instead of the in tank unit I had last year. After reinstalling everything, the engine floods when the fuel pump primes. if i pull the fuel pump fuse it'll start, and as soon as I put the fuse back in it starts running ridiculously rich. I checked the tps voltage, and its fine. Cleaned the maf as it had some dust from sitting on a shelf all winter, fuel pressure is correct while running, but wont fire until there is less than 5psi in the lines. The fuel lines are run correctly. I have found a few threads with the same problem but no actual explanation of what fixed it, the threads just ended. Any help would be appreciated. Rb25det s1 walbro255 fuel pump nismo fpr holset hx35 turbo fmic 3" exhaust freddy intake manifold q45tb q45 maf   Re: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Fri Apr 12, 2013 5:07 am No, I didn't. I found the problem though. There was a break in one of the ecu coolant temp sensor wires. Once it was repaired it fired right up with no problems. I would have never thought a non working coolant temp sensor would have caused such an issue.
    • Hi sorry late reply I didnt get a chance to take any pics (my mechanics on the other side of the city) but the plugs were fouled from being too rich. I noticed the MAF wasn't genuine, so I replaced it with a genuine green label unit. I also swapped in a different ignitor, but the issue remains. I've narrowed it down a bit now: - If I unplug and reconnect the fuel lines and install fresh spark plugs, the car starts right up and runs perfectly. Took it around the block with no issues - As soon as I shut it off and try to restart, it won't start again - Fuel pressure while cranking is steady around 40 psi, injectors have good spray, return line is clear, and the FPR vacuum is working. It just seems like it's getting flooded after the first start I unplugged coolant sensors to see if its related to ECU flooding but that didnt make a difference. Im thinking its related to this because this issue only started happening after fixing coolant leaks and replacing the bottom part of the stock manifolds coolant pipe. My mechanic took off the inlet to get to get to do these repairs. My mechanics actually just an old mate who's retired now so ill be taking it to a different mechanic who i know has exp with RBs to see if they find anything. If you have any ideas please send em lll give it a try. Ive tried other things like swapping the injectors, fuel rail, different fuel pressure regs, different ignitor, spark plugs, comp test and MAF but the same issue persists.
    • My return flow is custom and puts the return behind the reo, instead of at the bottom. All my core is in the air flow, rather than losing some of it up behind the reo. I realise that the core really acts more as a spiky heatsink than as a constant rate heat exchanger, and that therefore size is important.... but mine fits everything I needed and wanted without having to cut anything, and that's worth something too. And there won't be a hot patch of core up behind the reo after every hit, releasing heat back into the intake air.
    • There is a really fun solution to this problem, buy a Haltech (or ECU of your choice) and put the MAF in the bin.  I'm assuming your going to want more power in future, so you'll need to get the ECU at some stage. I'd put the new MAF money towards the new ECU. 
×
×
  • Create New...