Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

yeah i was thinking of doing something for this, just waiting for my camera to come back,

I see you've entered, John - nice entry too (assuming it is you)! :D

Stickied.

Thanks Steve-O!

  • Replies 233
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Damnit, preparing my egg for this Canon competition is doing my head in. I know what I want to achieve and how I want it to look, but getting it right is a whole other thing...

:):P

Hmm, have you had a look at what the other entries are like, Owen?

I wanted something completely different to what others have done - mine's not quite exactly how I wanted it, but it's pretty close and it wasn't easy to execute in the way I'd envisioned it. Oh well, it's done and it's been entered. The Canon site says it may take one or two days to appear because it has to go through their mods to be checked.

Oh, I think the closing date is a bit ambiguous too, IIRC one section says it closes on the 26th, and another says the 28th. :D:):blink:

ok, im fast running out of ideas on stuff to shoot in the city (believe it or not) lol. i seem to have my comfort zone of shooting shapes, repetition etc. but anyone got any ideas on something new I could give a try? i guess people is one thing ive never been real confident at shooting, specially unsolicited shots of unsuspecting people, lol. but yeah, im open to suggestions.

Just scored a perfect condition EOS 300 Film SLR with a 28-90mm lens. can play some old film now !!

Jay, start shooting people doing interesting things, or opposite people. like business man and garbo doing something similar.

So i was reading some comments on the powerex batteries and everyone loves it and it lasts a long time etc etc etc.. But the interesting fact i read from a few people is that recycle time is not as quick as the eneeloops.. Which is what i need for wedding work.. So gonna stick with eneloops for now. hmmm

  • 3 weeks later...

I see you've entered, John - nice entry too (assuming it is you)! :D

bit delayed in responding to your post Nick but yeah that was my entry, i think i took about 100 different shots from all different angles till i got that one. i was pretty happy with it but there were some pretty good entries in there too.

I'm going down to the caravan park my parents run in Bremer Bay, bottom of WA. Got f**k all to do down there, so I'll be walking around with my camera for 5 days I reckon. Hopefully I can get a few decent shots!

Whats everyone else got planned?

Over the break (xmas to nye) I'll mainly be at home, might spend some time down the beach. I'll try and take my camera everywhere with me, and I'm starting to save to get a new lens and get rid of all these other random ones. In the end I'd like to end up with a 50mm 1.4, and either the 24-70 2.8 or 24-105 f4. I know I'm 1.6x crop though so 70 might be enough... hmmmm.

Oh how I love B&H Photo - ordered some stuff off them Thursday night our time (which is Thursday morning NY time), and got it in yesterday's mail!!!

:D:banana::D:banana::D:banana::D:banana:

Oh, and I love that the Aussie dollar is still strong against the US dollar.

i shall be heading home to cooma. will be good to be in the country for a few days, i'll get to do some long exposures of the night sky, so many stars should look great. and heaps of stuff to take photos of, plus a little birdy told me that im getting some new camera gear from the misses for christmas too, so that will be fun.

I wanted to try long exposure shots of the starts, but didnt have my tripod and I need to hold down the shutter button in the BULB feature to keep the shutter open. Not sure how to keep it open permanently, any ideas?

I used PS, but didnt like it. Would also be interested to see what other programs I can use.

I wanted to try long exposure shots of the starts, but didnt have my tripod and I need to hold down the shutter button in the BULB feature to keep the shutter open. Not sure how to keep it open permanently, any ideas?

You'll need to get yourself a cable remote, Rhys. There are a few different ones depending on which camera you've got. I bought a Canon RS-60E3 for the 450D, and luckily for me it also works with my 60D. I also bought the RC-6 wireless one, but you can't use that with the BULB effect as far as I know...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I have wasted too much time on this, more than I am willing to admit. I hope someone can set the record straight for me.  I want to replace my Nismo (non GT pro, non GT) standard 2 way in my R33 GTST with a 1.5 way... Ideally I want to get an ATS 1.5 way Carbon LSD, but I don't want to reuse my 29 spline 5x1 axle stubs, and new 30 spline 5x1's are impossible to get a hold of ($$$), and I don't want to drop the cash on going to 6x1 stubs and axles ATM. Which leads me to the Nismo GT Pro 38420-RSS15-B5 or RSS20, as they come with new axle stubs meant for the diff, and is "Convertible" from a 2 way or 1.5 way to "Other ways", but that is where I am stuck as the documentation is a bit all over the place.  To sum up what I have found I believe the all the Nismo GT Pro PN's are convertible from 2 way, 1.5 way, and 1 way; but Nismo sells 2 skus (2 & 1.5) so people do not have to disassemble to convert it.  I found this thread on 350z but it left the question unanswered. https://my350z.com/forum/engine-and-drivetrain/620032-nismo-gt-pro-lsd-1-5-vs-2-way-and-torque.html  Essentially the way I think it all works out is like follows...  2 way  1 way  and 1.5 way would be the center pinion shaft in the 1 way block, but with the with the center flipped 180*. So the ramped side of the pinion would face the 1 way gate and act like a ramp.    I can only get my hands on the 2 way in the states, and I am not trying to get stuffed on tariffs by ordering from Japan or anywhere else. I want to confirm that if I get the 2 way I can convert it to the 1.5.     
    • Hi everyone, I have purchased my first GTR and I want to do a single turbo conversion to it. I've been doing as much research as i can and there are a few things that I can find and need to know. I need to run a coolant feed, coolant return, oil feed and oil return for my turbo setup. Here's what I know so far: On the hot side of the rb26 there is coolant feed, oil feed and oil return. Coolant return will be going around the front of the engine to where the thermostat is located. I will need to block off the rear oil return port. I will be running a turbosmart boost solenoid so any of the factory boost stuff wont be needed. Now onto what I don't know: 1. What do I do with the coolant / vacuum hardlines that run around the back of the motor?. 2. What do I block off or loop or move or remove?. I will be running the OEM intake manifold. 3. Is there anything in particular I need to buy for the cold side of the rb26?. I already have the intercooler and pipes sorted. If you have any pictures or information it would be appreciated. Thanks....  
    • The fab work can be as simple as a couple of silicon hoses and clamps to the factory piping. 
    • Just sounds like either way you need to do some fab work to get everything to fit, so why limit yourself at that point? If the GCG high flow option is zero effort in and out swap though I'd probably do that. It's almost certainly lowest risk, lowest cost, etc. The HKS GTIII-RS option that Kapr mentioned is laughably expensive for what it is, they charge the exact same for two turbos on the RB26 so their margins are off the charts on that thing.
    • Intake manifold is not a part of the issue. The turbo bolts to the exhaust manifold. That is easy. But close your eyes and picture the physical situation. That is a T3 flange on the manifold and a T3 flange on the turbo. As long as any new turbo has a T3 flange on the exhaust housing, that exhaust housing will bolt to the exhaust manifold. This places the exhaust housing in the same place as the stock one. But now move your mental attention a little further forward. The location of the compressor housing is set by the length of the turbo's core. The stock turbo had a long core. Let's say that it is..... 100mm long. So that would place the compressor housing 100mm forward of the exhaust housing. But a highflow, might well have a centre core that is shorter. Let's say that it is only 70mm long. Now the compressor housing will be 30mm further back in the engine bay than the stock one. This DOES move the turbo's compressor outlet backwards. It also moves the compressor's inlet backwards. You will very likely have to do some work to both the inlet and outlet piping to make everything connect again. I am not say this to make it out to be a bigger deal than it is. I am just pointing out that "bolt on" is sometimes not quite bolt on. The highflow from GCG that Murray linked above (https://gcg.com.au/turbo-charger-upgrade-skyline-gtst-2iu-xtrgts-s1.html ) uses a core that is the same length as the stock core, and so does not require this extra work. It will look very much like the stock turbo. No-one uses GTR turbos of any flavour (stock, or aftermarket) in a single turbo application on RB20/25. It's not a thing. Yes, people have been putting on GT3076, GTX3076 (and bigger and smaller versions of those) and G30s (of various sizes) onto RB20/25 since forever. But these are not "bolt on". Everything except the 4 bolts to the exhaust manifold change with these. And genuine Garretts are expensive. Non-gen, like Pulsar, etc, are cheaper, variously as good or nearly as good. But still not bolt on. No-one in the right mind would pay for an HKS turbo. Not in this modern day and age. Well, yes, the GCG highflow. You could ask HG what he can do to make the compressor housing sit in the original location. There are surely others doing highflows around the world. And some of the eBay/Temu ones (as reported by Dose) work and don't die. Bit of a lottery though. I would send your turbo to GCG (here in Oz) to be highflowed if you want a trivial no-extra-work option. But seriously, the work required to change inlet and outlet piping is not that hard. That's a boost control problem, not a turbo problem.
×
×
  • Create New...