Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys ,

I've been having some trouble lately trying to think of some upgrades i can do to my r33 now im not a braniac when it comes to cars, I'm still learning about stuff and i just bought my car about 2 months ago, this is the first performance car i've ever driven and im loving it, Basically i dont have a clue as to what i can do to upgrade it as it has a fair amount of stuff done to it atm, The only major thing i could think of was upgrading the turbo , umm so i rang up turbotech and they told me all they could do to my turbo was change it into a garrett ball bearing turbo so im not sure what he means but i think he said it spools up faster with less lag and can handle up to 28 psi, Now my turbo is small haha :laugh: atm my boost controller set on high is running at about 16 psi and the guy said if i wanted to put a bigger turbo in it they would have to do alot of work on the engine however he didnt say what kind of work , and also said something about 5 bolt?? something..? cant remember but yea thats when he said the ball bearing upgrade is all he could do at this point.

I was looking at this turbo upgrade turboproducts_listing.ews | Turbotech the Garrett GT30 ,maybe GT35?

These are the current Car mods

Custom M-Sports Bodykit, Top Secret Carbon Fibre Bonnet, GTR Grill, GTR Wing & Drift Wing, Altezza Clear Tail lights, Ganador Carbon fibre Mirrors, GMAX Shadow Chrome 18" Deep Dish rims, Apexi Coilover Suspension, RDA Slotted Front & Rear Rotors , 8000K HID Kit, Custom Front mounted intercooler, HKS SQV Blow off Valve Custom split dump 3"-3.7" Stainless steel exhaust system, Hicas Lockbar, GTR Bucket Seats, Splitfire Coilpackz, Triple Core Radiator, 3A Racing Intake, HighFlowed t3 turbo (Small frown.gif ), VI-Pec ECU with anti - lag & Launch control (Which are both not enabled) Profec B Spec II Boost Controller, 550CC JEC Side Feed Injectors, GTR Fuel Pressure Reg & Rail, BOSCH 040 Fuel pump, Apexi Turbo Timer, Nismo Short shift kit, Nismo Luminous Dash dials, Cusco Front strut brace, Excedy Heavy duty clutch. Auto Gauge- Boost gauge , Oil temp & Pressure, Water temp Gauges,

smile.gif Im hoping to possibly kick it up to 450-500bhp? Even more if possible looking to spend money , Any input would be great and maybe some links if you can be bothered , Thanks ~.

Here are a few current pictures

ImageShack slideshow

  • Replies 44
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

are you kidding most of the work is done all he needs to do is get a 3071 or 3076 and a tune and he has easy 500hp death machine

or if you want something bit cheaper see hypergear...

Search the things i have highlighted , do your homework and

state how much you wanna spend on a turbo...you will be flooded with answers in minutes bud.GL.. :laugh:

ED>..Also search for a recommended tuner in your area...

Edited by Arthur T3

Sorta agree with both the previous posts..

enjoy what you have, build a motor that can handle power and then throw it all in..

or get a GT30 or GT35, bigger injectors, front facing plenum, wastegate, fuel pump, new clutch.. there is a few more thing you would need.. and then build your new engine while you kill the one you have ATM..

The last option is what i did.. Had a GT35 had 466hp, thrashed it to much timing went out and it was all over.. lol.. got more power out of it.. but it was best on the 466hp..

i think the hypergear thread is a good one to read, as theres heaps of info on there possibly post a question? i agree with stryder, find out exactly what it is you want to do with the car and go from there. for eg. you might want to possibly look at the suspension side of things like swaybars etc. its all good having a high hp car,but making it go round a corner is another thing lol. nice tidy 33 btw :laugh:

If your goal is around 350~400rwkws you can run a GT3582 in .82 rear with a 60mm external gate.

Use E85 as fuel and run a set of adjustable cam gears that should be able to get you the power without too much lag.

Plus you need a set of valve springs. Lash setup on the R33 suck, they valve bounce uptop with high boost.

He might not need a set of valve springs at all.

I made 370rwkw @ 24psi, stock head no issues.

Guilt-Toy did 370rwkw as well, GT35 with a stock head and i believe 20psi+

Totally depends on the heads condition as to what you need/don't need. As with many other users' experiences, the RB25 head set-up doesn't suck too much at all.

Either way this guy doesn't have a built motor, so chasing 370rwkw is silly.

Set 400rwhp/300rwkw as a the limit unless you are prepared to fork out for a motor rebuild.

yehh brake horsepower.. umm dont know much about it actually. The guy just said it was a "T3 Hi Flow Turbo.. no idea what type tho .. although it does have a HKS wastegate on it.. but yehh not entirely sure.. im not realyl interested in an engine build at this point.. i just wanna know what i can do to it to get some more horsepower out of it and the only thing i could think of was an bigger turbo something like a GT3076 or something..But im not sure if my engine could handle it.. maybe if i took it to the Turbo mechanics they could check it over or something but yeh.

the 3076 seems to be the flavor of the year for std internal rb25 , it seems you have all the supporting mods to fit one , but first before spending your hard earned $$ , find yourself a reputable tuner and get your car checked out to make sure it's fit and healthy :P

no idea havn't ran it on the dyno lately.. but last i heard of it was 380-400 HP

Based on your setup and the mods you have I'd be thinking more like 230-250rwkw=310hp which could be called 380-400bhp I guess. To go from 250rwkw to 300rwkw is $5K depending on your final preference. Add another say $10K if you rebuild the engine which you will need if you want higher power than 300.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • just an update to this, poor man pays twice  Tried sanding down the pulleys but it didnt do the trick. Chucked another second hand alternator in the na car which I got for free off my mate and its fixed the squelling. Must have been unlucky with the bearings.    As for my turbo car, I managed to pick up a cwc rb alternator conversion bracket + LS alternator for 250 off marketplace, looked to be in really good nick. Installed it , started the car and its not charging the battery.... ( Im not good with auto elec stuff so im not sure if this was all I needed to do but I verified such by using a multimeter on the battery when the engine was running and I was only getting 12.2v )   I had to modify the earth strap for the new LS alternator , factory earth strap was a 10mm bolt which did not fit the bolt on the LS alternator which was double the size so I cut it off , went to repco bought some ring terminals that fit, crimped it onto the old earth strap and bolted it up to the alternator , started the car and same issue. Ran like shit and was reading 12.2 at the battery.  For a "plug and play" advertised kit thats not very plug and play but alas.  My question is , am I missing something ? Ive been reading that some people recommend upgrading the stock 80 amp alternator fuse to a 140 amp but I dont see how that would stop the alternator charging especially at idle not under load.  Regardless ive pulled it out and am going to get it bench tested by an auto elec tomorrow but it would be handy to know if ive missed something silly or have done something wrong.   
    • My wild guess is that you have popped off an intake pipe....check all of the hoses between the turbo and the throttle for splits or loose clamps.
    • Awesome, thanks for sharing!
    • To provide more specific help, more information is needed. What Android screen? What is its wiring diagram? Does the car's wiring have power at any required BAT and ACC wires, and is the loom's earth good?
    • So, now all you need to do is connect the 2 or 3x 12v feeds into the unit to permanent 12v, ACC 12V and IGN 12V that you can find in the spot behind the stereo, and the earth, and then it will switch on with the car.
×
×
  • Create New...